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I did the swap properly. I have a chipped ECU with the H23A basemap. The TCM has long since been disconnected. I did not do the 5 speed swap, previous owner did. He did it wrong, I went in and fixed it. I was running an Accord manual ECU until doing this swap, I am now, like I said, running a flashed ECU running the H23A basemap.
The harnesses didn’t match from the factory, but I wired everything in properly. Mostly all I needed to do was lengthen and move wires. There were one or two sensors where I had to wire a different end on, or swap the sensor out with an older one.
I don’t know what cars you’re doing swaps into, but this car was originally SOHC, non VTEC with an OBD1 Engine. The new engine was factory OBDII, so a few things needed to be changed to convert it to OBD1.
I’ve certainly done EVERYTHING in this swap properly, and with the utmost care. I triple checked all wiring changed. The wire harness I used, came out of an Accord, and it was slightly modified to fit on this engine. I then ran the wires needed to add the VTEC stuff.
The problems I am having, I am 99% certain, have nothing to do with the ECU. If they do, then Rywire sent me the wrong basemap or something.
I went ahead and got my O2 sensor installed. Tested a few more things.
After all was said and done, I am still getting the MAP code. Idle is sitting at around 2200 RPM. I can tap the gas, it will go down to where it needs to be, and the immediately go back up.
Idles strong. Stays right at that RPM. Once it was warmed up, I revved it slowly up to about 5k, and it did fine. So, I decided I would go for a drive. It seemed to be acting a lot better this time.
It did the same thing. As soon as it was in gear, if I tried to give it any gas, it would drop in revs. I was going down hill. I would give it gas, it would slow down. I barely made it back uphill.
Another issue. The fan won’t switch on. I know for a fact that the fan works fine. I have it plugged into the fan switch next to the thermostat. I tested the fan by jumping the wires. I went ahead and swapped the fan switch from my old engine onto this one. I was told that the japanese sensor works differently, so I figured I’d give it a try. It doesn’t work.
I did the swap properly. I have a chipped ECU with the H23A basemap. The TCM has long since been disconnected. I did not do the 5 speed swap, previous owner did. He did it wrong, I went in and fixed it. I was running an Accord manual ECU until doing this swap, I am now, like I said, running a flashed ECU running the H23A basemap.
The harnesses didn’t match from the factory, but I wired everything in properly. Mostly all I needed to do was lengthen and move wires. There were one or two sensors where I had to wire a different end on, or swap the sensor out with an older one.
I don’t know what cars you’re doing swaps into, but this car was originally SOHC, non VTEC with an OBD1 Engine. The new engine was factory OBDII, so a few things needed to be changed to convert it to OBD1.
I’ve certainly done EVERYTHING in this swap properly, and with the utmost care. I triple checked all wiring changed. The wire harness I used, came out of an Accord, and it was slightly modified to fit on this engine. I then ran the wires needed to add the VTEC stuff.
The problems I am having, I am 99% certain, have nothing to do with the ECU. If they do, then Rywire sent me the wrong basemap or something.
I went ahead and got my O2 sensor installed. Tested a few more things.
After all was said and done, I am still getting the MAP code. Idle is sitting at around 2200 RPM. I can tap the gas, it will go down to where it needs to be, and the immediately go back up.
Idles strong. Stays right at that RPM. Once it was warmed up, I revved it slowly up to about 5k, and it did fine. So, I decided I would go for a drive. It seemed to be acting a lot better this time.
It did the same thing. As soon as it was in gear, if I tried to give it any gas, it would drop in revs. I was going down hill. I would give it gas, it would slow down. I barely made it back uphill.
Another issue. The fan won’t switch on. I know for a fact that the fan works fine. I have it plugged into the fan switch next to the thermostat. I tested the fan by jumping the wires. I went ahead and swapped the fan switch from my old engine onto this one. I was told that the japanese sensor works differently, so I figured I’d give it a try. It doesn’t work.