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Hi, I was troubleshooting the 2004 Suzuki grand vitara with no start issue and no communication issue. I tested the TPS ref voltage and signal wire. I got 6.24volt for the ref volt and 1.45 volt for the signal wire. Also I can not scan the computer no communication code. Furthermore no service engine light when the ignition signal is turned on. Also no fuel pump. Some one any idea is appreciated.please respond
Thank you Kris, I did google it but nothing came up of importance. But do you think the coil smoking is ECU related? I understand no power to the fuel pump relay may be.
Quoted From jacobnbr1:
I’m not going to load a pic because this web sight sucks for loading images and pics but check fuse f/inj in the power distribution block and confirm it is not blown.
If you have a DSO you can place your low amps probe there and look at all six of them at the same time to find out if there is a problem in the ramp/saturation, You can trigger of number one secondary ignition to reference the aid and discovery of the problem.
As a work around the Pink wire at each injector plug should have voltage with the key in the on position.
You can do a manual scratch test to this system by using a test light to ground and t-pinning the the negative side of the injector and momentarily touch the tip of the test light to the t-pin should activate the injector but this is not testing the PCM driver but only the injector.
That is about as basic as I can make it for the DIY guy and doesn’t touch any on circuit integrity which I might add is every ones worst nightmare and becoming the most common problem found in todays modern shops.
Quoted From jacobnbr1:
I’m not going to load a pic because this web sight sucks for loading images and pics but check fuse f/inj in the power distribution block and confirm it is not blown.
If you have a DSO you can place your low amps probe there and look at all six of them at the same time to find out if there is a problem in the ramp/saturation, You can trigger of number one secondary ignition to reference the aid and discovery of the problem.
As a work around the Pink wire at each injector plug should have voltage with the key in the on position.
You can do a manual scratch test to this system by using a test light to ground and t-pinning the the negative side of the injector and momentarily touch the tip of the test light to the t-pin should activate the injector but this is not testing the PCM driver but only the injector.
That is about as basic as I can make it for the DIY guy and doesn’t touch any on circuit integrity which I might add is every ones worst nightmare and becoming the most common problem found in todays modern shops.
Ho Jacob,
Finally I was able to work on the Buick century with no fire issue. I tested all six injectors with a multimeter and they are all fine. The reading was 12.2 ohms for all 6. But there is no power in the connector. I connected noid light and turned the ignition on, I tested three connectors two on bank A and one on B. none the noid light lit, So this means it is narrowed down to the wiring between the fuel inectors and PCM or PCM. So this may mean a shorted out connector wire or the PCM. Can you direct me further? how to test the wires and how tell which ( pink I think) that is correct wire from the PCM. How would you replace the wire between the fuel unjector and the PCM?
Thanks alot
Fred
Quoted From EricTheCarGuy:
Based on Jacobs diagram I’d first be checking the underhood fuse and then the connector at C102 for starters. I don’t know if anyone has mentioned this but if you were able to get your hands on some ‘noid lights’ you would be able to hook them into the injector connectors and see if they are firing like they’re suppose to, you might be able to borrow a set from you local auto parts store.
Hi Eric,
Yes they have and I will , currently I am away from home. I forgot one detail to mention since this is a family member car not mine. I was told recently just before the car died and went into the no start mode two popping sounds were heard under the hood while driving. Like a fuse blown up. But i did check the fuses and all they look fine, Unless it was a wire shorted out. I do not know if the popping sounds was the cause of what is being experienced now. How would check the connector at C102. do Ineed to check resistance and if yes is there any guidelines ohms wise what I should be looking for? Also suppose if the PCM is bad can I get one from the junk yard as long as has the same service No?
Thanks
fredThank you all for the great information. As a start this is helping me to understand the problem. I will try these tips and let you know.
Regards,
Fred
Thank you for your response. I will try what you suggested. Do you have the electric diagram if not where I can get hold of it.? Also you do not think this is a PMC related but injector related. How to fix the shorted out injector if that is the problem. Also if I need another PMC . Do I need to reprogram it or I can swap it with one from the junk yard as long as the service number is same. Thank you
fred