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I’m by no means a pro on this issue…but this did happen to me once…when I got some “bad fuel” in my 99 Tahoe. What i did (and others can either confirm or shoot me down…honestly I’d like to know the proper way to this too) was siphon off some of the gas and put in fuel stabilizer then added a little of the gas back in in hopes of “mixing” the stuff with the fuel. Once I got it started and it ran for awhile and then drove it for awhile my problem was solved. I hope this helps. If I’m way off please comment fellow forum friends!
Quoted From Shaun_300:
The 4L60 holds about 5 quarts just dropping the pan. When I do a rebuild on one and have the thing right down to a bare case with no valve body and torque converter drained it’s more like 10 quarts or maybe more.
Thank you Shaun_300…That must be what they were talking about because they said 5 quarts at first and then they said Fill 10. So that clarifies it.
I should mention that it is the 4L60E transmission
Thank you Beefy! I appreciate the information! A lot of good points in there!
March 22, 2012 at 11:00 am in reply to: Are these worth getting – Gear Wrench Ratching Wrench Set #443915Used a set all evening breaking down a Buick 3800 V6…Between my friend and I we had the whole engine apart in no time! They helped us out so much…I don’t own a set…they were his as was the engine…but I’m going to Sears this weekend to get a set! Thats how much I liked them!
I’m changing transmission fluid too…but just going with the standard servicing (drain,filter,gasket,fill). I was thinking of going synthetic but it’s been said that it can cause problems just as Beefy had said above about the seals. For me it’s just not worth the risk. Good luck and let us know how it works out!
Well I’m pretty sure the sensors were the problem. The amount of rust/dirt was incredible! New sensors installed and no instances of the ABS coming on for no reason! Thank you again for all your help! I’m now ready for the winter!
Wow…thanks for all the replies! I got the Tahoe scanned for codes and none came up! So I guess I am going to go after the sensors and look at their condition and replace if necessary. Thanks for the info! It has really helped me! I’ll get back to you and let you know how it goes!
Thanks everyone…I’ll get it scanned for codes and get back to you. Thank you!
Thanks guys for all of the above posts! You’re really helping me out! And more importantly helping my aunt out! I will let you know how everything goes! Again cannot thank you enough!
Frank
Thanks djdevon3! Will make sure to be extra careful with it!
Hi everyone! Ok got it fixed…and it was a rather simple fix… I disconnected the taillights and gave the an extreme examination. What I found wasn’t good (not too bad though compared to a turnsignal switch replacement). The bulb sockets had corroded under the di-electric greese (which I didn’t see the first time I examined them)…after trying to clean the light sockets there wasn’t much left and voltage was questionable all over the socket board. So, I went to the local auto parts shop and got two new socket boards and tried them…and it all worked again! Thank you all for your help in trying to solve this…staying dirty is good…except for this case! 🙂
Frank
Thanks jbone for your suggestions…I’ll check her car this week and see what I can find!
Thanks BigC! I will take a look today and let you know what I find!
FrankS
Thanks for all the help everyone and the welcome to the forums! I was able to confirm a few things: 1)I do have the correct bulbs (dual filament), 2)I do have front turn signals, 3)the brake lights do not work when I depress the brake pedal, 4)I do have backup lights and rear taillights (when the headlights are on).
I think you’re right Eric…I’m going to try to get ahold of a wiring diagram and do some more research. I will let you all know what I come up with so that if anyone else has this problem they can follow these posts. Thanks again for your suggestions…it’s helping me pin point the problem! 🙂
FrankS
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