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That is indeed a strange issue. The ignition system will typically misfire under load, unless a coil or plug is so shot that it’s just a dead miss.
Without faults or data you are kinda boned as this is not a known issue on your car. If possible, get your hands on a Ross-Tech scan tool or something similar so you can view value blocks 15 and 16. These will display which, if any cylinders are misfiring when the problem occurs.
You can remove the MAF sensor and make sure there is nothing on or near the screen that could affect the air flow. Even a tiny leaf or bug on the screen can skew the readings. This is unlikely.
The only other thing i can think of is the cam or crank sensor. The crank position sensors can become dirty and cause ‘hick ups’. You can usually resolve that by removing the sensor and wiping off any debris on the tip. Check the sensor wiring by jiggling it and seeing if the engine stumbles. Cam sensors have caused this as well, but i have only seen that on the 3.2 FSI engines. You can start your car and unplug the cam sensor and take it for a road test. Once it’s started, it will run without it. For that matter, it will also run in default mode with the MAF unplugged.
That is indeed a strange issue. The ignition system will typically misfire under load, unless a coil or plug is so shot that it’s just a dead miss.
Without faults or data you are kinda boned as this is not a known issue on your car. If possible, get your hands on a Ross-Tech scan tool or something similar so you can view value blocks 15 and 16. These will display which, if any cylinders are misfiring when the problem occurs.
You can remove the MAF sensor and make sure there is nothing on or near the screen that could affect the air flow. Even a tiny leaf or bug on the screen can skew the readings. This is unlikely.
The only other thing i can think of is the cam or crank sensor. The crank position sensors can become dirty and cause ‘hick ups’. You can usually resolve that by removing the sensor and wiping off any debris on the tip. Check the sensor wiring by jiggling it and seeing if the engine stumbles. Cam sensors have caused this as well, but i have only seen that on the 3.2 FSI engines. You can start your car and unplug the cam sensor and take it for a road test. Once it’s started, it will run without it. For that matter, it will also run in default mode with the MAF unplugged.
The reason why people put cars up on jack stands is to prevent flat spotting on tires. Just buy new tires in 2 years. A car is ‘at rest’ when it’s standing on its wheels. By placing it on jack stands you are placing suspension components and bushings under stress. To a lesser degree, you are also placing the chassis under stress. Have you ever jacked up a convertible and found that the doors no longer latch smoothly? Chassis flex is the reason. This happens to hard top cars too and the chassis will bend slightly if left up on stands for too long. What you save on tires is not worth the damage your car will sustain from being under stress for two years.
Another solution is to go to the salvage yard and pick up 4 spare tires. Bag your wheels in black contractors bags to curb dry rot, and stack them in the garage.
Your battery will likely be toast when you come back. Disconnect it, but expect it to be dead and sulfated in two years.
Fluids will be fine. Replace them later.
Bag up the car. Tape the bag to the ground. Put whatever pest control devices in the bubble you feel are necessary.
Good Luck!!!
The reason why people put cars up on jack stands is to prevent flat spotting on tires. Just buy new tires in 2 years. A car is ‘at rest’ when it’s standing on its wheels. By placing it on jack stands you are placing suspension components and bushings under stress. To a lesser degree, you are also placing the chassis under stress. Have you ever jacked up a convertible and found that the doors no longer latch smoothly? Chassis flex is the reason. This happens to hard top cars too and the chassis will bend slightly if left up on stands for too long. What you save on tires is not worth the damage your car will sustain from being under stress for two years.
Another solution is to go to the salvage yard and pick up 4 spare tires. Bag your wheels in black contractors bags to curb dry rot, and stack them in the garage.
Your battery will likely be toast when you come back. Disconnect it, but expect it to be dead and sulfated in two years.
Fluids will be fine. Replace them later.
Bag up the car. Tape the bag to the ground. Put whatever pest control devices in the bubble you feel are necessary.
Good Luck!!!
It does sound like insufficient vacuum at the booster. Shut the engine off and press the brake pedal. Is it really stiff, or do you hear a whoosh from the booster and the pedal feels ‘assisted’? If the pedal is assisted, try the same thing again but wait a couple minutes before pressing the pedal. Did the vacuum leak down and the pedal is now stiff? It may be a vacuum leak, or the vacuum check valve between the booster and engine.
It does sound like insufficient vacuum at the booster. Shut the engine off and press the brake pedal. Is it really stiff, or do you hear a whoosh from the booster and the pedal feels ‘assisted’? If the pedal is assisted, try the same thing again but wait a couple minutes before pressing the pedal. Did the vacuum leak down and the pedal is now stiff? It may be a vacuum leak, or the vacuum check valve between the booster and engine.
You should do what the service manual tells you to do. Some bolts are to be lubricated with engine oil, and some with a lubricant specified by the manufacturer. Although there is truth in that you can’t achieve an accurate torque setting without lubrication, it’s just as important to use the correct lubricant.
You should do what the service manual tells you to do. Some bolts are to be lubricated with engine oil, and some with a lubricant specified by the manufacturer. Although there is truth in that you can’t achieve an accurate torque setting without lubrication, it’s just as important to use the correct lubricant.
[quote=”brokemechanic3000″ post=64350]This is the exact point, that some things were good and do not need to be improved. B) [/quote]
Those features were good, but they were only good for the time in which they were used. The consumer has changed and so the technology has to adapt. People don’t check their engine oil so manufacturers had to intervene. The result is oil level sensors. Even that isn’t enough. I constantly see cars with a huge warning on the dash stating ‘stop engine and add oil immediately’. I ask them how long they have been driving like that and the answer is ‘two or three weeks’. How is a dipstick going to help this situation? At least a sensor and a plain-english display will get some of these people to come into the shop to have the oil topped off.
A similar thing happened to transmissions a long time ago. Not many people cared and only because they don’t feel transmission fluid is as important. Now, people don’t feel car maintenance in general is a priority. Why install something that won’t be used by the vast majority of drivers?
As a tech, i love these sensors. It gives the driver a way of monitoring the oil level without ever opening the hood.
[quote=”brokemechanic3000″ post=64350]This is the exact point, that some things were good and do not need to be improved. B) [/quote]
Those features were good, but they were only good for the time in which they were used. The consumer has changed and so the technology has to adapt. People don’t check their engine oil so manufacturers had to intervene. The result is oil level sensors. Even that isn’t enough. I constantly see cars with a huge warning on the dash stating ‘stop engine and add oil immediately’. I ask them how long they have been driving like that and the answer is ‘two or three weeks’. How is a dipstick going to help this situation? At least a sensor and a plain-english display will get some of these people to come into the shop to have the oil topped off.
A similar thing happened to transmissions a long time ago. Not many people cared and only because they don’t feel transmission fluid is as important. Now, people don’t feel car maintenance in general is a priority. Why install something that won’t be used by the vast majority of drivers?
As a tech, i love these sensors. It gives the driver a way of monitoring the oil level without ever opening the hood.
Your loss of faith in humanity is not misplaced, but your disapproval of this technology is. Don’t fear it. These sensors were not implemented to make life more difficult. Just the opposite. People don’t check their oil level often enough so car manufacturers implemented a feature to help drivers keep an eye on the oil level. You don’t need a dipstick. You can view the oil level through a display, and the vehicle will tell you when to add oil – for example, an Audi will tell you when to add a quart of oil. Next time you fill up on fuel just grab a quart of your favorite approved oil, and just dump it in the engine. How simple is that?! Now the engine is happy, and you don’t have to mess with a dipstick.
So, what if it fails and now you don’t have a dipstick to verify the oil level? I have worked on thousands of these cars since the 2008 year model when the oil level displays were implemented. I have yet to replace a single sensor. You have to see it from the car manufacturer’s point of view. They don’t want to warranty engines because an ignorant customer didn’t check the oil level. Proving that an engine died of oil starvation is not easy when politics are involved. These sensors are more robust that your average sensor, and they were designed this way to favor the manufacturer’s warranty needs. In the event of a malfunction, the system can easily spot implausible signals and any electrical problems.
Your loss of faith in humanity is not misplaced, but your disapproval of this technology is. Don’t fear it. These sensors were not implemented to make life more difficult. Just the opposite. People don’t check their oil level often enough so car manufacturers implemented a feature to help drivers keep an eye on the oil level. You don’t need a dipstick. You can view the oil level through a display, and the vehicle will tell you when to add oil – for example, an Audi will tell you when to add a quart of oil. Next time you fill up on fuel just grab a quart of your favorite approved oil, and just dump it in the engine. How simple is that?! Now the engine is happy, and you don’t have to mess with a dipstick.
So, what if it fails and now you don’t have a dipstick to verify the oil level? I have worked on thousands of these cars since the 2008 year model when the oil level displays were implemented. I have yet to replace a single sensor. You have to see it from the car manufacturer’s point of view. They don’t want to warranty engines because an ignorant customer didn’t check the oil level. Proving that an engine died of oil starvation is not easy when politics are involved. These sensors are more robust that your average sensor, and they were designed this way to favor the manufacturer’s warranty needs. In the event of a malfunction, the system can easily spot implausible signals and any electrical problems.
Search eBay for ‘oxygen sensor spacer’. You don’t need to drill anything. This is a common solution for cat efficiency faults. Modern engines can throw a cat fault if the efficiency drops just 5%. Often you can still pass the gas analyzer test.
For older cars, you can also get an oxygen sensor simulator. It is a signal generator that is installed in place of the post cat sensor. This is useful if you have removed your cat entirely. Some states only perform an OBD test so you can be spewing raw fuel out the exhaust and still pass. Not that you would do such a thing because you are a respectable member of the public and respect the regulations put in place by the EPA.
Search eBay for ‘oxygen sensor spacer’. You don’t need to drill anything. This is a common solution for cat efficiency faults. Modern engines can throw a cat fault if the efficiency drops just 5%. Often you can still pass the gas analyzer test.
For older cars, you can also get an oxygen sensor simulator. It is a signal generator that is installed in place of the post cat sensor. This is useful if you have removed your cat entirely. Some states only perform an OBD test so you can be spewing raw fuel out the exhaust and still pass. Not that you would do such a thing because you are a respectable member of the public and respect the regulations put in place by the EPA.
You would need to isolate some components to narrow your diagnosis. You can disconnect the u-joint at the bulkhead, hold it down with a large vise grip and then hold the vise grip with your foot so it doesn’t move, then move the steering wheel back and forth to see if the noise is still there. If you can’t hear it than it’s time to look further down. Attach a vise grip to the steering shaft going to the rack and move it around. Sometimes you can feel things better when there is no column to dampen the play. Try it like this with the wheels off the ground, and then with the tie rods disconnected. See what changes and it will help you isolate the noise. Get a friend to turn the wheel for you as you observe for movement and feel around for play.
It may be worth doing a quick bolt check. Go over the steering rack and subframe and make sure all the bolts are tight.
It could be many things. Noises can be tough to diagnose and especially on those cars since they had so many steering issues. There were clunking noise issues with steering columns, clamping screw for switch pack on column, strut mounts, strut bearings, spring perches, ball joints, steering rack mountings, steering racks, control arm bushings and loose subframes.