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I have 60 gallon Campbell Hausfeld 3 hp model i bought at tractor supply, http://www.tractorsupply.com/campbell-h … 0006 Its really nice, its pretty quiet too. When I was looking for an air compressor I
Hey guys, Thanks for the posts, Sorry its been so long. So I checked the lines out and I didn’t see any leaks, I couldn’t get a really good look at the slave cylinder. But I do think failure is in the slave, I don’t see where else it could be leaking. It does have a kinda wet look from what I can see, so I think that is the road I’ll be heading up soon. I’m thinking I will buy the new slave cylinder from Ford, I don’t really wanna have to do this again within another year. It won’t be as bad as last time though, I have alot more tools now then I did two years ago. Did I mention before the original clutch was replaced at 155k miles and its got 175k now?
Anyway I was thinking that this time when I take it all apart that I would make a video of it, but I really don’t know how to do that very well. I know Eric has a video already about this process, but I really like finding videos or tutorial type things with the exact same vehicle I’m working on. I have seen some similar videos but they are all shaky and poorly made and you have no idea what is going on.
I will be doing this project soon, after I get that motor out of my lincoln. I’m going to try my hand at making a video or maybe a bunch of detailed pictures and I will post them on this same thread. (If its ok with Eric that I link to my video) So if anyone has any advice on this too I’m open to suggestions.
Thanks again for your replies
I’ve had this same problem, once you get it to spin that’s usually a good sign, I got a set of vise grips on it then I just kept hitting it with kroil or PB blaster and heating it, then turning it back and forth, it slowly worked its way out. When I got it out dust poofed out haha. When you do get it out get new pins. I mean worse come to worse and you cant get them out then yeah getting new brackets and pins would work too, but that means more money.
Mainly Autozone and NAPA, it really depends on the part really though, they give good discounts. If its for classic cars I use Summit Racing. If I need a really cheap fix the U pull it junk yard, its great for fixing body parts, sometimes they even have the right color 🙂
I work for Triple A taking roadside calls, I’ve taken prolly over a thousand calls in the past 2 years there, and I’ve gotten a lot of calls for Toyota corrolas and Toyotas in general. But, they are usually for smaller issues like jump starts, tire changes and lock outs. Most of the time its like that, occasionally I hear of a severe engine failure or transmission failure, but most of the time (judging by who’s on the phone AKA a moron) they probably aren’t treating it right. I agree with Trcustoms they are great if taken care of. My aunt has always had Toyotas and was habitual about the maintenance schedule and she never had any problems at all and drove many of them well over 100k miles. Believe it or not the cars I get the most calls for with serious problems are Mercedes and BMW. Basically look the car over for the usual warning signs, if you’re not sure of what to look for Popular Mechanics has a general guideline for purchasing a used car and what to look for, heres a link.
http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/ho … ing-burned
I hope it helps, good luck with your purchase!