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Probably wont be an issue but in case anyone lands here from a google search the answer to the question is in the pdf attachment I’ve included in this post.
Run into this a lot over here and the problem seems to be the CSS (customer satisfaction surveys) are more profitable then the bonus they make from labour sales, Are service advisor Get somewhere around $75 in bonus for every extremely satisfied survey that corporate send out they sent out 40 for this month so even getting 1/4 of the cherry picked jobs he’s submitted is still way more then hitting the labour sale rates and that is where the problem lies they could make a loss for all they cared as long as there css scores are good the dealership doesn’t seem to care.
most of the guys here don’t even look at book times any more the vw warranty book times are a joke and there is no time for diagnostic only the repair so if you spend an hour finding the problem for it to be a loose wire you’ll get .1 .2 or something for all of it + you need to do the write up file a diss report send the diagnostic data to vw etc etc
even non warranty item suck most of the time as vw have fixed price repairs so we can only charge that amount for the repair the prices would be fine in a cheaper part of the country but where were located the labour rate is about 60% higher than in other parts due to the massive cost of land higher staff wages etc etc but making targets and staying profitable when you’re limited like that isn’t easy For example a timing belt book time is 5.5 hours for a certain car but max we can charge is equiv to 3.5 hours labour so even if you do it in book time we still lose out because we’ve only sold 3.5 hours.
Only decent money maker is Pdi’s and used car checks can get 160% efficiency on those if you want to make money.
Check the stalk isn’t stuck if it is either lubricate or replace, if the stalk seems to be fine take the shroud of the back of the boot to expose the rear wiper motor unplug the connector and check for power (vaults) it should only have power when the stalk is in the correct position.
Let me know the result of this and we’ll go from there.
Were seeing a lot of innovation from the trucking world coming into cars now Dpfs a few years ago now VW are running SCR in the latest diesels
We tend to do parked DPF regens and they annoy the hell out of people as there loud must be even worse for a truck Only reason we do parked regens is time we have a secure area that the car can be left to run it’s regen No point trying a passive as usually if they’ve come in for a dpf problem it’s well and truly clogged up and being so close to london it’s a waste of time trying to get the engine hot enough to carry one out.
I can imagine adblue top ups will be a common thing in 5-10 years for automotive diesels.
took me 15 1 hour lessons when i was 17 biggest pointer is listen to your instructor and try and book some 2 hour lessons you can get a lot more learnt in that time ( wasn’t an option for me as i took my driving lessons on my lunch break at work)
20k are flexible services which is mostly lease/rental companies since they make up such a large amount of business and there cheap as hell it keeps them happy and brings us the work
fixed intervals are 10k services but most people tend to ignore that and do it once per year regardless of mileage.
[quote=”Chevyman21″ post=125608][quote=”Fmxvxx” post=125602]Honestly this mostly seems like a pointless endeavour An engine used normally will last 20 years with minor repairs and maintenance
Doing an oil change every 3k is just a waste really and the cost of that over the years will set you back more than a new engine
(3 extra oil changes a year= ~$180 If done by yourself using good oil and filter)
A complete engine from a 2.0 dart range from $1600~$2100
It’s a new car most new cars on the road today aren’t babied there loan/fleet/rental or pcp cars I see 2012-2013 plate cars coming through the garage pushing 100k and everything is fine with them it’s age that kills cars more than mileage rubber dries seals crack parts get old and starts to stick etc etc[/quote] Exactly. In the old days with a carb it was necessary to let the engine warm up and choke it to make it run richer for a proper start up. While it was being choked, oil dilution could occur from the fuel that was being dumped down the intake not being atomized properly. With modern EFI cars you just get in an go(I would wait 30 secs for the oil to be circulating properly because thats all it should take) but IMO you should still let the engine warm up to operating temp before romping on it. I do an engine oil change every 3k, but I am running a carb. Even with EFI though I wouldn’t go past 5k without an oil change. As an engine wears it is still good practice to increase oil change frequency as blowby increases with engine wear.[/quote]
How come you guys change the oil so much? here it’s 12 months/20k miles some manufacturers go as low as 12 but people generally ignore the mileage and do it once per year, unheard of to have the oil changed out at 3k/5k etc unless it’s been 12 months since the last change.
Honestly this mostly seems like a pointless endeavour An engine used normally will last 20 years with minor repairs and maintenance
Doing an oil change every 3k is just a waste really and the cost of that over the years will set you back more than a new engine
(3 extra oil changes a year= ~$180 If done by yourself using good oil and filter)
A complete engine from a 2.0 dart range from $1600~$2100
It’s a new car most new cars on the road today aren’t babied there loan/fleet/rental or pcp cars I see 2012-2013 plate cars coming through the garage pushing 100k and everything is fine with them it’s age that kills cars more than mileage rubber dries seals crack parts get old and starts to stick etc etc
It does suck when it goes dead because you have to stay no matter what, but at the end of the day you’re guaranteed a pay check and with the company paying you anyway it’s in there interest to keep the workflow up.
[quote=”Fopeano” post=125301]You think that’s bad, look at this:
[quote=”Fmxvxx” post=125303]that’s the exact set i posted lol? just it’s $700 cheaper in US compared to here lol[/quote]
My point exactly. WTF right?[/quote]Sadly everything here is about 40% more expensive than it is in the US and ordering from the US doesn’t work after paying the shipping costs + import charges it’s normally within 1-2% of the price it costs here.
[quote=”Fopeano” post=125301]You think that’s bad, look at this:
[quote=”Fmxvxx” post=125303]that’s the exact set i posted lol? just it’s $700 cheaper in US compared to here lol[/quote]
My point exactly. WTF right?[/quote]Sadly everything here is about 40% more expensive than it is in the US and ordering from the US doesn’t work after paying the shipping costs + import charges it’s normally within 1-2% of the price it costs here.
Firstly inspect the brakes
if they are all good It’s likely you have a worn cv joint but I wouldn’t rule out a wheel bearing issue as well
those should get you on your way, there a little long winded but they have all the information you need.
As for the parts you get what you pay for the parts are cheap for a reason the material is thinner and of poorer quality the tolerances are slacker etc etc If it’s a cheap car then by all means buy cheap parts but just realise they wont last as long there may be fitment issues or design deviation from the genuine part
Firstly inspect the brakes
if they are all good It’s likely you have a worn cv joint but I wouldn’t rule out a wheel bearing issue as well
those should get you on your way, there a little long winded but they have all the information you need.
As for the parts you get what you pay for the parts are cheap for a reason the material is thinner and of poorer quality the tolerances are slacker etc etc If it’s a cheap car then by all means buy cheap parts but just realise they wont last as long there may be fitment issues or design deviation from the genuine part