Forum Replies Created
-
Replies
-
cant get High and Low through MVB’s so would need to put the car back on the air con machine which wont happen till next weekend as new boss is starting this week and working on your own car during work hours isn’t the best way to make a good impression 😉
I’d buy a set of gauges but seeing as i wouldn’t trust the shitty ones and the price of a good pressure gauge set up that will never get used as I have a fully automatic AC machine at work it’s a lot of money for a 1 time use.
The pressue is just a pressure reading of the MVB’s with the AC running
Nothing to test the high/low side with Ran the Car into work to regas it the pressures looked normal on the gauges but cant remember the exact numbers now, the thermal expansion valve is behind the bumper as is the condensor and cooling fan, was hoping to avoid it but I’ll drop it after work tomorrow and see what I can see. As for the switches they are all working as they should.720kpa is about 104 psi
Only thing in the doc i haven’t done is replace the receiver/drier which I’m not sure is the issue due to the age and use of the car I’ll change it if there are no other routes to go down but I’d like to run some more tests before i start just throwing parts.
I always do my best to help whether it’s an old couple with a flat tyre in the supermarket car park or a friend who just needs a hand but I’m not a charity If someone calls me and asks me to read the codes on there car I’m happy to do that but I’m going to charge something, normally like $15 or something it’s not much but it’s helps pay for my scan tool and my time and as It normally takes about 30 minutes for a code read by the time I’ve read the code/ confirmed the fault or discussed there options with them it’s not really much to ask.
yeah I’ve bought some jb weld whether or not it works is yet to be seen but it looked useful to have either way The way it snapped is very jagged and would require a little more skill with the plastic welder than i currently have of the jb weld fails are order the new part and when i take the old one off try and repair it if it fails atleast i have the new one on hand if it works i can just return it.
Not the clearest pictures, sorry Had my brother take them as I wont see him till the weekend, The part is under pressure if you remove it you can see the top of the cam so it absolutely needs to be tight and secure (hence the outside being drenched in high temp silicone)
Cant be left like that it’s sealed up but it’s a hack bodge at best so really want to get it sorted before she’s driven more than round the yard.
the problem with high temp adheasives they seem to be plastic specific and im not sure if the plastic is ppe abs etc
and the price from the dealer is $250 so thats a no go and no breakers yard have one that ive found yet its a ‘rare’ engine config and its only used in 1 car that isnt that popular so breakers spare parts are a little sparse
I would take a look at the warranty, presuming there not trying to rip you off by rejecting a valid warranty claim they should not of fitted the transmission if they hadn’t diagnosed why the old one had failed, if they’d drained the old oil out of the tranny and seen it filled with coolant then that should of been addressed before any other repair was carried out.
I cant speak for there warranty but if If I’d done the work and the car came back with that issue The blame would of been on me and the garage would of paid out on the repair.
For me the biggest draw to knipex over S/O is the price due to Knipex being german there very easy to get here and the prices range from 1/2 to 1/4 compared to the S/O equiv I want good quality tools but I also want to be able to pay the bills 😉
I hate customers like that remember having that argument with a customer over a snapped spring she though it was perfectly legitimate that the spring didn’t snap in the 160k miles she’d driven the car it must of snapped in the 50 yards we drove it to get it into the workshop for it’s service.
Not been in the trade that long but one that will stick with me for awhile was doing a timing chain on a little 1l corsa if you know what you’re doing ~2-3 hours for me having been at the dealership about 3 weeks at this point was safe to say it took a little longer 😉 but anyway I got it all apart and drained the water pump from a bleed screw at the bottom timing it up all went ok and i put it all back together started it up and started to bleed the cooling system, At this point i could see the car leaking coolant and after removing the covers again I saw it leaking out of the bleed screw checking it all tight at this point i consulted a more experienced tech. it was at this point he told me that while it was technically a bleed screw if you removed it would never seal up again and as the job was a warranty job I would have to replace the water pump, after stripping it all back down and doing the entire job again i triumphly through the old bits in the big bins outside that’s when they told me I needed to keep the old bits for to send back to warranty.
Read through as best I could One thing I would of done is blanked the EGR off yes this would introduce a fault code in the system but you would be able to see if there was any difference in the running of the vehicle that will give you a good indication of how the EGR is functioning if you are unable/unsure how to test it properly.
One thing that caught my eye is the MAF sensor and installing a new one causing a no start condition that is something I might investigate further.
precats can collapse internally causing a build up of back pressure which will stall the engine
Honestly looking the time and energy you’ve put into this car I’d of sold it a long time ago
[quote=”andrewbutton442″ post=132425]Yes, when VW went watercooled they blew it, totally, although that Diesel bug was pretty neat. Wouldn’t have the rest of them though, not my style. If I want a complicated a German car, I will just buy a Porsche. I have owned both air and water cooled Porsche cars with horizontal engines as well as Aircooled VWs with goofy 40 horse motors, and now that I have none of that stuff, I don’t miss them at all although neat cars to drive, the frequent repairs are not worth it. Sold my 57 oval window sunroof beetle about a year ago and swore off european cars forever after that. Sometimes I when I see a late model 911 or something in traffic I have to just tell myself NO I cannot go back down that dark path I walked for to many years.[/quote]
For reference Porsche are owned by VW 😉
The tigian runs of the pq35 platform which is the same platform vw use for most of the small to midrange cars from the golf passat audi a3 and q3 to the altea’s toledo’s and leons which i work on.
The platform Is a tried and tested as our the engines, sure there extremely complicated to work on but honestly there just a few years ahead of other manufacturers. and a lot of the complications are due to not having either the correct tools or the correct information, We get a sizeable chunk of work from other garages who have bodged repairs due to using incorrect methods that have cost the customer a lot of money.
It’s apples and oranges thought if people want to compare build quality from 30 years ago then sure it’s gone down hill but so has merc bmw bentley and every other car manufacturer.
Wolf compressors are just awful I’ll start off with that wouldn’t touch them.
The size and type of compressor really depend on what you’re planning to do with it Ideally you want a 100L tank with about 3hp but you could make do with 50L but you’ll have to wait around for the tank to fill. I’m from the Uk so I can help you out with Decent home tool brands
http://www.sgs-engineering.com/air-compressors/50-litre/sc50h-50-litre-high-flow-air-compressor
http://www.sipuk.co.uk/sip-airline-vdx-50-cm3-50l-direct-drive-air-compressor-12-6cfm.html
You wont get anything with more than a 3hp motor and make sure they run of a standard 13amp plug (you’ll probably want to run it on it’s own circuit which will mean a spare breaker slot or a small garage consumer unit.
You can go bigger and wire in a 20 amp breaker but probably over kill for home use unless you want to do HVLP spraying.
As for Air impact wrenches
http://www.sipuk.co.uk/sip-07336-1-2-impact-wrench-825-ft-lbs-torque-8-0-cfm.html
Both of those do exactly what you need
If you need any help with tools or or tooling feel free to drop me a line.
