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Ok will be a long post but will do my best.
Repair one maybe 2/10
Will need a new seal a means to remove the old glue either heat and scrape or an adhesive remover, some weatherproof adhesive to stick the new seal on and you’re on your way.
Repair 2 3/10 with stuck bolts
First off leverage is your friend a reasonable 18 inch breaker bar would be handy for this, maybe longer but access can be difficult for longer bars if you’re on axle stands make sure you are using 6 point sockets and shouldn’t be hard to remove.
Watch ETCG vids on pad/rotor replacements and make sure sliders are greased etc before reassembly.
Repair 3 7/10
For stripped fasteners my favourites http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss_i_3_6?url=search-alias%3Dautomotive&field-keywords=irwin%20bolt%20extractor%20set&sprefix=irwin+%2Cautomotive%2C254
The holes are there for access and yes bad tools could be playing a part if possible try buying a long 3/8th extension that can slot down in there possible even 1/4 depending on the size of the access hole.
In terms of tooling removing the actual pump is fairly straight forward 1 electrical connection and a few fasteners Not familiar with this modal to be honest so some good pictures of the engine bay and the location would help give a better idea of how to guide you through it.
Repair 4
Diagnosing an exhaust leak is fairly simple Place the car up on axle stands start it up cold and feel for the gas leaking out by placing your hand around parts of the exhaust (dont touch it) This can be done warm but i prefer doing it cold only due to less risk of burning myself.
In terms of tools where to start if you want to do you’re own repairs then you’re going to need tools you dont need the best and I wouldn’t recommend buying anything until a job comes up where you need it, but just put a small chunk of what you would pay a garage to do the work towards the tools you need for each job and you should be good.
Ok will be a long post but will do my best.
Repair one maybe 2/10
Will need a new seal a means to remove the old glue either heat and scrape or an adhesive remover, some weatherproof adhesive to stick the new seal on and you’re on your way.
Repair 2 3/10 with stuck bolts
First off leverage is your friend a reasonable 18 inch breaker bar would be handy for this, maybe longer but access can be difficult for longer bars if you’re on axle stands make sure you are using 6 point sockets and shouldn’t be hard to remove.
Watch ETCG vids on pad/rotor replacements and make sure sliders are greased etc before reassembly.
Repair 3 7/10
For stripped fasteners my favourites http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss_i_3_6?url=search-alias%3Dautomotive&field-keywords=irwin%20bolt%20extractor%20set&sprefix=irwin+%2Cautomotive%2C254
The holes are there for access and yes bad tools could be playing a part if possible try buying a long 3/8th extension that can slot down in there possible even 1/4 depending on the size of the access hole.
In terms of tooling removing the actual pump is fairly straight forward 1 electrical connection and a few fasteners Not familiar with this modal to be honest so some good pictures of the engine bay and the location would help give a better idea of how to guide you through it.
Repair 4
Diagnosing an exhaust leak is fairly simple Place the car up on axle stands start it up cold and feel for the gas leaking out by placing your hand around parts of the exhaust (dont touch it) This can be done warm but i prefer doing it cold only due to less risk of burning myself.
In terms of tools where to start if you want to do you’re own repairs then you’re going to need tools you dont need the best and I wouldn’t recommend buying anything until a job comes up where you need it, but just put a small chunk of what you would pay a garage to do the work towards the tools you need for each job and you should be good.
For me if the tool does what I need and will do it for a good while then I’ll buy it, I like some of the snap on stuff but if a tool does the job and has life time warranty then I’m not sure what I’m getting by spending 2,3,5,10x more for the snap on equivalent
For me if the tool does what I need and will do it for a good while then I’ll buy it, I like some of the snap on stuff but if a tool does the job and has life time warranty then I’m not sure what I’m getting by spending 2,3,5,10x more for the snap on equivalent
You’ll find that happen a lot working in dealerships They’ll come in for a free VHC let you spend the time to tell them what’s wrong then take that to a discount garage and get them to carry out the work,they come to the main dealer to get the service stamp and carry out warranty work
That being said here at least we offer fixed priced servicing disc + pad changes clutches timing belts etc
At my old place the fixed prices were cheaper than most independent shops in the area.
Not sure what it’s like there but it’s always slow this time of year in the Uk the new model years come in march that things pick up again it’s steady from about mid/late jan but nobody wants to spend money on there car just after Christmas.
You’ll find that happen a lot working in dealerships They’ll come in for a free VHC let you spend the time to tell them what’s wrong then take that to a discount garage and get them to carry out the work,they come to the main dealer to get the service stamp and carry out warranty work
That being said here at least we offer fixed priced servicing disc + pad changes clutches timing belts etc
At my old place the fixed prices were cheaper than most independent shops in the area.
Not sure what it’s like there but it’s always slow this time of year in the Uk the new model years come in march that things pick up again it’s steady from about mid/late jan but nobody wants to spend money on there car just after Christmas.
If you already have a 1/2 impact i’d go for the power probe you can do most things a 3/8th will do with a 1/2 inch but having 2 impact guns isn’t going to help when you need to do any electrical work.
If you already have a 1/2 impact i’d go for the power probe you can do most things a 3/8th will do with a 1/2 inch but having 2 impact guns isn’t going to help when you need to do any electrical work.
They can here couldn’t say for sure in the states, just keep an eye on how many hours a day your billing I tend to jot them down in a notepad over lunch and at the end of the day and keep a tally of hours sold each week kind of like a little competition with myself where the only winner is me.
They can here couldn’t say for sure in the states, just keep an eye on how many hours a day your billing I tend to jot them down in a notepad over lunch and at the end of the day and keep a tally of hours sold each week kind of like a little competition with myself where the only winner is me.
December 29, 2014 at 7:05 am in reply to: Newbie havin trouble removing lower bolt rear shoc #650450Place the car on axle stands place a floor jack under the rear spring jack it up until the floor jack is just compressing the spring this will make sure there is no weight on the shock.
IF PB isn’t working as you’re replacing it you could try heating but it is not normally required,
Try hammering the bolt to shake the rust free (dont mushroom the head)
Then try and get a good 24 inch + breaker bar on it to break it loose.
December 29, 2014 at 7:05 am in reply to: Newbie havin trouble removing lower bolt rear shoc #642454Place the car on axle stands place a floor jack under the rear spring jack it up until the floor jack is just compressing the spring this will make sure there is no weight on the shock.
IF PB isn’t working as you’re replacing it you could try heating but it is not normally required,
Try hammering the bolt to shake the rust free (dont mushroom the head)
Then try and get a good 24 inch + breaker bar on it to break it loose.
I had issues with a service advisor who did this she was a lovely girl it made the customers happy but it really did screw you over was never major things you’d get 0.8 for a service that is normally billed as 1.3 but losing a few of those 0.5’s really add up over the month, she’d also bill down upsells in order to sell them but it made the upsell not worth our time in doing (from an efficiency point of view)
If the service advisor isn’t doing what there supposed to I’d talk to your workshop controller If you doing the work you should be able to bill the hours in full why should you take a hit to your paycheck to make the service advisor look good?
I had issues with a service advisor who did this she was a lovely girl it made the customers happy but it really did screw you over was never major things you’d get 0.8 for a service that is normally billed as 1.3 but losing a few of those 0.5’s really add up over the month, she’d also bill down upsells in order to sell them but it made the upsell not worth our time in doing (from an efficiency point of view)
If the service advisor isn’t doing what there supposed to I’d talk to your workshop controller If you doing the work you should be able to bill the hours in full why should you take a hit to your paycheck to make the service advisor look good?
Personally I would never do this and for the cost of new discs I Dont see why anyone else would either.
If I was going to do it i’d want to check the disc run out first to make sure the disc is not warped i’d also want to clean the rotor up as best i could before hand.
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