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I had a look and I turns out I can get a whole rebuilt caliper for $40 (not including core deposit), for that price I’ll just get two rebuilt calipers and a set of rotors so I don’t have to worry about it. I’ll probably also take the opportunity to paint the new calipers blue or red.
Using Bonnieman’s method I was able to identify that the sound was coming from the front passenger side and most likely from the breaks.
I picked up some Sil-Glyde brake lubricant and put new grease on the slide pins and contract points. While this did not fix the issue I am fairly certain I have found the issue. Have a look at these photos: http://imgur.com/a/4JgOyIt appears that one of the pads is significantly more worn down than the other and even more alarmingly I am not certain the two pads are the same. One of the pads has a line in the middle not seen on the other, the numbers on the pads don’t match. I purchased this car in November of 2014 and have only put 15,000 Miles on it so I don’t know who last serviced the brakes or when they were last serviced.
Here is a better video of the noise: http://sendvid.com/dobd2y7u
Am I correct in assuming that I should replace that rotor, get a new set of pads for the front, verify their is not an issue with a pad dragging, and then inspect the the rear brakes as well? They just opened an O’riley’s near me and I have heard they can machine rotors so I will probably bring in the driver’s side rotor and have it checked.
Thanks to everyone who took the time to read my thread, I will keep you posted on the tires.
ps This car has does not have the ability to open the rear windows because it’s a coupe.
[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=90896]
Transmissions.
These cars warp front brake rotors
Front wheel bearings
Coolant leak in the crossover passage that runs along the back of the engine above the transmission. This is an easy fix with a couple of gaskets.
EGR passages clogging.
Timing belt tensioners.
Serpentine belt tensioners. This is less common but should be checked when doing a timing belt.
Struts.
Heated seat elements are also a common failure. BTW, the passenger seat does not have an upper lumbar heating element. This is because of the SRS sensor that’s placed there.
CD changers and radios. I think we were replacing these weekly.
Rear view mirrors.
Window regulators.
Hood switches for the security system
Outside temperature sensors.
These cars are VERY sensitive to the tires you put on them[/quote]
How many of these are also issues on the USDM 98-02 4cyl Accord?
I know the accord does not have heated seats and the outside air temp sensor only applies if you have the automagic climate controls.Thank you for that, I ran new wires from the gear position switch for D3 and P, splicing them into the harness at a connector near the passenger side fuse box. This solved the issues with the lights and the shift interlock solenoid. Now I just need to look at the cruise control. I took out the remote starter while I was at it because I am going to drop in a new one with better range.
[s]It appears that there is an open between pin 10 of the transmission range switch (black wire with blue stripe) and connector B of the PCM as well as the pink wire going to pin 6. This would explain why neither the [D3] or [P] indicators lights come on. My method for testing was to disconnect connector B from the pcm and stick a wire in the pins I wanted to check that was attached to a body ground and then testing for continuity/ resistance to ground at the PCM side of the transmission range switch connector under the hood. I also tested the white wire(random selection) to make sure my method worked and it passed.[/s]
FML not even the right wires
Does anyone have a diagram of a/t gear position switch circuit?[quote=”Jotmon1″ post=150643]Did I miss whether your brake light switch was checked as a possible cause of your issue?[/quote]
Break pedal switches for cruise control and lights are confirmed working.I know it’s somewhat taboo to bump old threads but, I finally had some time/motivation to mess with this again as my inspection sticker expires at the end of November.
For the above test where I wrote a ?, I was not able to get a good reading, the cheapo dmm was showing like 0.01v
For this one I wrote a ? because the ohms appeared to fluctuate between 100-200ish after I got the first reading
Looks like the next step is tracing down where A3 on the MCU connector goes?
If you shift into reverse with the key on (engine not running), does the [R] light up and the white reverse lamps come on?
Yes
Bump
Pulled the ECU/Cruise Control and Clock/Backup fuses for 10 minutes and then let the car idle for 10 minutes to allow the PCM to relearn the relative throttle position and nothing changed.On the left is what lights are coming on when the car is in the on(||) position and on the right is what lights should be coming on.
I took a look just now, and it does not appear there is anything wrong with that connection point, the bolt is tight and the loom is undamaged in that area.
Another thing I noticed is that the seat belt light and chime are not happening either.EDIT: Does this car need a PCM learning procedure to be done after the battery is disconnected? I know the 03+ accords do but I am unsure about this model.
