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Here’s a picture of the rear differential. This isn’t mine btw. It’s the same as mine though.
Attachments:Yeah it probably wouldn’t be able to handle the power as it is a 50/50 torque spilt system. Without awd on it’s just normal fwd. If it does work it’ll probably just be the same as in the normal mode. About the codes, i wouldn’t care only they don’t break anything. The engine is the Delta 2.7 v6 with 198hp and 201torque, I just upgraded the ecu and it’s running on e85. I get to 100kmh in 7.2 seconds and maybe it may be faster in rwd?
The Tucson I have is basically one of the first generations of it. 04-05.. yeah like you said it would mess with lots of stuff, and I prefer not to break anything.
It uses a borg-warner clutch torque thing for the rear diff.I haven’t found out the problem, it isn’t bothering me as of right now because I’m thinking if trading the car in. I think it’s the environment sensor if there is one, and the engine temperature is normal and has never went above it. The codes that were on it were are:P0036 Heated o2 sensor
Also the ac isn’t working to its full potential, it’s blowing cold air but it’s not as cold as it has been. (when I bough the car brand new, it was like a fridge inside the car and now it’s like half of that)
I will take a look at the controls for it, because possibly it could be he controls just not working properly lol..Yeah sparkplugs are a pain on my car. I have to remove the intake manifold to remove the rear three sparkplugs, or the rear bank firewall side. Which is why I wanted, to do the clear flood mode. It’s that or the fuses. I just don’t want to dig into stuff I don’t know like the fuses.. sense yesterday, I won’t do the clear flood anymore till I know it’s actually in my car lol.. I rather not blow my engine yet
Maybe it doesnt work on my car lol.. yeah if worst come to worst, I will pull the fuse.
Lol, I just wanted to hear how It sounded when cranking before I go digging into things, sometimes it’s a long crank time to start it into morning.
I do hear the engine ticking at idle. -before I tried this.I also just wanted to make sure the (clear flood mode) was there because of the ticking, I wanted to crank the engine to build oil pressure before I start it.
And I wanted to do a compression check just to make sure the head gasket isn’t going or the valves, piston rings, etc.
It’s at 210,000km so just wanting check.At least I can check the exhaust sound off now 😀
It does make a turbo sound aswell at full throttle on the highway, or when it’s under load.Didn’t really have the time to do that, I just wanted to hop in and listen to the crank sound of the engine.
actually i was wrong, the system was flushed 3 times. So i don’t really think it is clogged. IS there like a sensor or something that needs to be replaced? like a environment sensor or a air temp sensor? Because im quite sure the heater core is fine.
As far as I know the system was properly bleed. It worked when the guy who did that flush. Then a day or 2 later, it stopped blowing warm air.
Update this code is tripped if it takes too long for the o2 to heat up. Due to my heater being the cause of this. -I think
If anyone wants to help me anymore I got the code for it
P0036-Power train HO2s heater control circuit bank 1 sensor 2 (05 Hyundai Tucson 2.7 v6)
With 200000 on the odometer that’s the only code. No misfires or anything car is well maintained.Anyone know why the car makes a loud clicking knocking noise apon startup then goes away when driving
Plus when I start the car in the morning its cold here too and sometime I mean all the time the rpm goes to 2000 straight away as soon as it fires up. Then it goes down in a few secs.
IF I lived where Eric is I are if he can do this as a classic look fix it playthru lololol plus it be funny watching him working on a Korean well maintaid d car :))))
I live in Ontario BTW I have no idea where he is. Quebec I doubt it….. IdlThe o2 thing is fine I guess I floor it on the highway revs go to 6000 7000 no problems no noises past that point. The car is in the negatives when warm fuel and air ratio is in the negatives ( example -00375) does that mean its running lean or rich??? Cause there’s no noticeable performance lose at all. Just I’m thinking the o2 senser witch is behind the cat on the driver side firewall its stopping the heater to work properly lol.
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