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I would say go for the swap out yourself. They’re really not that bad to do. Well, they weren’t bad to do on my Ranger. I didn’t have to undo my shocks or much of anything. Pretty much just the upper control arm itself, chalk marked camber bolts so they went back in the same way they came out, and all was gold. My stance and camber was better afterwards, without even taking it to an alignment shop. Only hard part was torquing with the truck on the ground. I did use the jack to lift the lower control arm back up for the spindle to meet the upper control arm. Although, I have good luck getting better prices from Rockauto. You may get them for half what the dealership wants.
If all you know is it is running rough, don’t go crazy trying to fix things till a code pops up. There are so many things possibly causing rough running; I found out on my 2003. Without codes, it could be anything. Till then, do some maintenance things to clear up non-code possibilities.
[quote=”Cabcat” post=168866][quote=”Flintiron” post=168754]Okay, why did you add a hand primer fuel pump? Electric fuel pumps prime just from turning the key part way, before it gets to the starting the car position. When the key is turned far enough for lights and radio comes on, the pump is priming.[/quote]
A lot of Diesel vehicles and machinery, at least the 4wds I know of, are fitted with a hand primer which sits atop the fuel filter. It’s used to bleed air out of the fuel system, preinjector, that may have gotten in by either changing the filter or after a leak was repaired. Some people like to retrofit them to newer vehicles to bleed air out of the system after replacing a filter or after doing work on any part of the fuel system, it also helps to avoid airlocks.[/quote]Sounds like logic to it, however, fuel systems aren’t a one way trip. Meaning there is a return line going back to the fuel tank. When I change a fuel filter, I know the next time I start the motor, I turn the key and wait to start it to give the fuel pump time to prime fully. The air will make it’s way through the engine’s system, and cycle back to the fuel tank. The ability to prime a modern engine with the factory fuel pump after a repair was already placed into the design, or they would’ve added the hand primer at the factory. It only takes under a minute to be sure the fuel is primed.
I had a guy try to tell me that I should never change a fuel injector myself because the factory installs them under vacuum to pull fuel up to the injector. However, all the time injectors are installed without that being done by DIY guys, as well as mechanics. Also, I pointed out to him about what happens when someone runs out of fuel, they simply add fuel and fire it up. Only our lawn machines require us to prime by hand, and adjust choke to start them.
[quote=”Teribus” post=168614]It isn’t even just big projects, I tend to find the same applies with any larger repairs on your own car.
On one of my previous cars, a 1999 Ford Focus mark 1 with the 1.8 TDDi turbo diesel engine, my fuel pump failed (Common failure on the electronic Bosch pumps as fitted to this model). An overhauled Bosch fuel pump was £450 GBP, which is substantial enough, but add in the other bits that you need to replace and soon you’re spending nearly as much again on the little bits – obviously the timing belt has to be replaced, then you’re replacing seals and gaskets, new fuel pipes, nuts and bolts, and add in a hand primer fuel pump because Ford don’t fit one at the factory. In total that one cost me £750-800 in parts, that doesn’t include fuel costs for travelling to go and pick up some of those extra little bits, and doesn’t account for the time spent going for all those little bits.
But these are the joys of motoring, and us car enthusiasts enjoy all of the excitement!
-T[/quote]Okay, why did you add a hand primer fuel pump? Electric fuel pumps prime just from turning the key part way, before it gets to the starting the car position. When the key is turned far enough for lights and radio comes on, the pump is priming.
Well, if your satisfied it has spark,, next is to check if the fuel pump is strong and consistent. It is possible for a fuel pump to be inconsistent when it’s starting to go. Remember it’s Earth (fuel), wind, and fire (spark) needed to run a gas engine.
[quote=”1995M” post=168407][quote=”DaFirnz” post=168406]Like anything used, they might last 5 years, they might last 5 days.
You should be able to get aftermarket struts and separate springs fairly cheap, it’s a Cavalier. A quick check showed some adjustable KYB struts for $100 each and lowering springs on Summit for $240 a set. Throw in a set of mounts for $40 a piece. $800 for completely new parts.[/quote]
Problem is everything is really expensive in Canada, the parts you just mentioned are around 1000$ after tax and import fees shipping[/quote]How much would they cost you if you were to visit the US and pick up the parts? Would they make you still pay the import fees and such when you get back?
[quote=”KarrbonFiber” post=78581]2001 Ford Ranger Edge 4×4 4.0 V6 my first and only vehicle still. Owned since 2004 rolled 35k on the way home with it that day. As of this date it now has 137k.[/quote]Sweet, you’ll be able to get more than double that out of it. Mine is just a RWD, smaller engine, but nearly double the miles you have and runs well.
My list:
1) 1984 Dodge Ram 50, 2.0L straight 4, 4 speed manual. Out dragged a Camaro, and learned to drift on dirt roads in that truck. Engine seized.
2) 1989 Pontiac Grand Am, ran only 2 months because oil pump was long dead before I bought it, engine seized.
3) 198? Ford Aerostar, paid $300 from buddy who couldn’t get it to start. It fired the first time I tried it. It had a short that drained the battery, but ran every time I needed it to. Literally died for good the day my wife and I bought our first car together. Nothing could revive it.
4) 1995 Pontiac Grand Prix, 3.1L V6, married, had two kids while owning that car. Did develop a bearing rattle just before trading it in.
5) 2003 Chevy Venture, 3.4L LA1 V6, the worst engine I would never wish on enemies. Put over 140k miles on it before dumping it on someone else
6) 2000 Ford Ranger, 3.0L hybrid V6, RWD automatic. over 250k miles and going strong. Not really mine per say, it’s in my name, but I’m suppose to be holding for my dad to go to my stepson, who I hope will let me buy it from him. Got all that?
7) 2003 Ford Expedition, 4.6L V8, 4wd with AWD selection, Rear independent suspension, 190k milesFirst half of that video was reminiscent of what I had to do to pull the instrument cluster on my Ranger. Even after I figured out all I had to do, it was an hour of taking parts off just to pull the cluster. All that to replace the little bulbs. I bought more pricey bulbs to avoid doing that again.
[quote=”451Mopar” post=167998]No problem. I get it, and I don’t disagree.
I guess I’m just searching for a way to get the customer to understand that Time, Training, and Tools are expensive, but there are some people you can never please.
What upsets me, I take a perfectly running car into the dealership for recall work, or warranty work and get it back with more problems than when it went in.
Stuff like half-way slit vacuum hoses, body/paint damage, damaged spark plug wires, loose connections, etc.[/quote]I took a 95 Grand Prix in for warranty work. It needed the driver’s door window power assembly repaired. I got back a broken door panel. The dealership owner accused me of breaking the panel myself trying to fix it. Why would I try to fix something that the warranty copay was cheaper than the parts? Anyway, that dealership isn’t dead yet, but he did have to bring in an investor and changed the name to keep the doors open a little longer. He told me his tech making $50k a year wouldn’t lie. He’s losing a lot of business, and that’s no lie.[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=168008][quote=”Flintiron” post=167958]Does Pull A Part test those parts for you? I’ve been nervous about buying electrical parts from salvage yards. With smaller electrical parts, I just go ahead and buy new, like switches, sensors, and ignition coils.[/quote]
No they do not, but you could stop at an Autozone or something and have them tested on the way home.[/quote]Yeah, that’s the rub for me. Unless they’ll let you return it, which the salvage yards here will not take back electrical parts, I don’t want to pay for an untested part and be stuck with it. I see that “No returns on electrical parts” sign and keep walking. I’ve gotten bad refurbished parts from AutoZone, but I was able to exchange for a good part. It was weird, bought a starter that turned, but no power at the throwout bearing. All spinny, but no starty. I just can’t afford to be out that money.
Does Pull A Part test those parts for you? I’ve been nervous about buying electrical parts from salvage yards. With smaller electrical parts, I just go ahead and buy new, like switches, sensors, and ignition coils.
Here is my story of last summer of being lied to that is not like this tech’s story, at all. I have a code show up, and a knock noise that is intermittent on my big truck. I fear a possible timing issue from looking on line, that can always be misleading. I take it down to shop A. They tell me there is no problem with timing, the code is for EVAP, and to fix it, I need new catalytic converters. I’m really not kidding. I fix the EVAP code by replacing a really bad, rusted fuel filter that was pushing one line off. I also noticed one of my ignition coils suddenly changed brands and turned yellow. That is still fishy to me. Later, I suddenly start having very hard misfires that shake the truck, and stalls it a couple times. I limp it to shop A, who then was telling me I need new timing chains and cats. I argued that before they said it was not the case. So I limp it home. A friend tells me about shop B, who has more experience with Fords. I have the truck towed because at this point I don’t know what to think. Imagine my surprise when they can’t really find anything. There are no codes, it’s running smooth, and all he did was replace a fuel line fitting that was damaged by the fuel filter. I picked it up, and it was indeed running smooth. Not long after I got it home, it started running rougher, but never got as bad as before. I got a code for the cats. Cats I had replaced 2 years prior, at shop A. I took it to shop C for another opinion. Cost a bit, but I’m searching for real answers that would help me decide between shop A or B. Shop C confirmed shop B, and suggested I take care of the cats. They don’t do cats, and I’m not going back to shop A (they’re the cheapest). I buy the cats, and install them myself, which is far harder than any cats I’ve seen in Eric’s videos. But hey, I saved $500.
That code is cleared, and the misfire returns, but still no code for it. I’ve had misfires before, but got a code, and replaced that coil myself. That last time felt very different, and wasn’t getting a code. I drove it back to shop B, located in a small town north of me. I kid you not, the misfire stops the moment I reach that town’s border. Of course shop B finds nothing. I pick it up, misfire starts back up 2 miles outside the town shop B is located. Finally a code starts flashing and I sigh. I ordered 8 new ignition coils that night and ended my nightmare. I’ll go back to shops B & C, but A lost me. I bought a code reader just to save time.
If the noise started right after you did the brakes, it could be a brake part rubbing the rim. I had it happen on my 03 Expedition. First time dealing with the brakes on it, I bent the outside retainer clip. I put it back on when done, but didn’t realize there was no clearance for the bend in the clip and the rim. I took it to a shop, and they pointed out the problem. Grateful they didn’t go through with a repair I didn’t need. I bought a new set of clips and springs and replaced that part.
Anyway, jack it up, set it on a jack stand, and start playing with the wheel to see if you can replicate the noise and locate it. Eric has videos on how to get the wheel to talk to ya.
I’ve had concerns with ramps, jacks and jack stands. I’ve had cheap steel ramps collapse, and a jack stand break (luckily I wasn’t under the car and it was a junker). Since then, I’ve only invested in those tools rated for 3 tons. Wife thought I was wasting money because we only had a minivan at the time. But it was her dad’s F250 that broke the first ramps, so they were useful for his truck, but now I have a heavy truck of my own. Worth it when you have a garage to store it. I used to use a mirror to watch my progress up the ramps. I’ve gotten good enough to not need it anymore. If he doesn’t have much room for storage, a jack and jack stands will suffice.