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The easiest way of getting the 50/50 ratio is buying bottles of 50/50 antifreeze and pouring it in. Next best thing, have full bottle of antifreeze, and a bottle of water, mix them in a bucket, and pour it back into both bottles. If you have any left over, save for you when you need it. Most people go with the first one, premixed.
My truck has the system that can do separate temps for each side. I’m wondering the system has a flap divider between the two sides, and that could be closed, or is the vent is simply blocked by a foreign object. I just got the truck, and I’m not yet familiar with all the systems, so I’m curious to see what you find out.
Dang asetoftools, it’s you guys who’re paranoid. 5kms over is only a difference of 3 miles, a cop has to be a real jerk to be that uptight. Hitting the brakes draws attention from cops here, they start to think the driver is doing something wrong and trying to be extra cautious, like warrants or drugs. Thing is, it’s illegal for cops to pull someone over without a legitimate reason to do so. However, they almost never get in trouble for it. Eric getting held up for nothing the second time sucks because it raises blood pressure, and takes time from his day. Could’ve been worse, I had a cop lie about my speed, inflated it, just so he could write me a ticket. I was polite and everything, driving in a pack of cars that no one was speeding, he picks me out of the crowd. It’s not paranoia, it’s understanding some cops are jerks.
When you had it in the air, did you have both front wheels off the ground so you could turn the steering wheel? If not do that (on jack stands), turn the steering wheel all the way, and spin the wheel, and you might find the noise. It could be something so simple as hitting the plastic wheel well cover.
I’ll add, my suggestion for the easy out is because it only needs one drilling, and if it isn’t perfectly centered, no big deal. As long as the threads are avoided.
I’m more partial to using an easy out extractor. Can buy just one if needed, it states the size drill bit needed. I do suggest buying a new drill bit for the job. By the second job, the drill bit is losing it’s talent for the job. Plenty of penetrating fluid.
Assembly line or a mechanic who realized the problem, but forced it on so he didn’t have to deal with slowing things down or costing his boss more money. Gotta love that lack of integrity.
Reminds me of when I caught a shop pulling something similar lazy. I bought an Expedition that turned out had straight pipes replacing the catalytic converters. I paid a shop to put in cats. A few years later I was having some trouble with the SUV, and cats had worn out. That same shop was giving me a run around about an expensive repair I didn’t need, and so I tackled the second cat replacement myself. Besides saving myself $500, I found they cut an exhaust hanger instead of doing the hard work of getting it properly mounted. I admit it was a pain, I felt like I came in second in a heavy weight wrestling match when I was done, but I did it right. Sometimes small things like that is a sign of much bigger problems. Story is too long of the other problems they caused me.
I’ve done rears a few times, but of course never the same car twice. Just like doing serpentine belts, it’s nice to have a pic of how it looked in place. My favorite vehicle to change a serpentine belt was my old Expedition. First time I changed one on a forward facing motor, that didn’t require fishing the belt around the mechanical fan blades. Of course cars with electric fans are also easy.
This day and age, take a pic with your phone before you undo anything. Easy reference later. I got a rear drum brake job to do, plan on taking a pic right after I get the drum off. Easier than referencing the other side.
1998 S10’s didn’t have distributor caps. It has two ignition coils. It’s also fuel injected. I’ve had this happen with a Ranger that also had ignition coil pack, and fuel injected. Holding the gas down to start is a clue it’s flooding. I do agree a weak ignition system can cause this. A fuel rich start without enough spark, holding the pedal chokes the fuel, starts up just like his S10.
Get a pickup if you don’t already have one. Rent one from Home Depot if you have to. Have a plan on how you’re getting it out of the truck before you get there, borrow or rent an engine lift if you have to. If you get a whole car, just have it towed to your place.
I’ve learned so much from scrapping cars, taking them apart piece by piece. 1985 BMW was my first victim, I didn’t have an engine lift, so I took the motor apart in the car, and lifted the 4 cylinder block out by hand. My second victim was my 03 Expedition that got totaled last April. I didn’t mess around taking that motor apart, borrowed a lift and hauled it off in the replacement truck. Learned more, taught my son how to sawzall a truck, and got $600 from the scrap. Kept the front seats, making gaming chairs out of them. But that’s a thought, get a car really cheap, learn to cut it apart, separating the metals, and profit from a learning experience.
The drive gear as you called it, I grew up calling it a throw-out gear but so many names for it, how does the Ford starter engages it? I knew the solenoid did it on most starters, but I’m curious how the Ford starter does it without the solenoid. Thanks for the video, it may help me with something at work. I drive zambonis, and one machine has an electromagnet valve for the water, similar to the solenoid, but is suppose to hold open. It keeps shutting off during operation, but works as long as I’m turning it on and off regularly. The tech just keeps cleaning the plunger part, but I’m thinking it’s developed a short inside the bindings and needs replacing.
I would guess a short that is getting wet, maybe. Water getting into unusual places on older cars can do weird things. I had a Ford Aerostar the battery would drain down when it rained. But I also had a Ranger that would flood and not start, requiring holding the pedal down. Could be the latter is the problem. I had some ignition issues with the Ranger, and after fixing that issue, didn’t have the hard start again. So maybe the ignition isn’t firing fast enough, and it floods, causing the pedal to need be held down to choke it.