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The car has a thermal expansion valve. And yes it is condensation and not ice.
The OEM service manual provides the best information i have seen for torque specs. If you cant find that most people I know recommend the chilton manuals. As far as I have seen most of the Honda timing belt changes are similar although if i remember correctly the H22 has a balance shaft which will add a few extra steps.
If you don’t already have it I recommend you get a Honda crank pulley tool as it will make breaking the crank pulley bolt loose that much easier. Also while you have it all apart its a great time to change your water pump since its right there.
I have been using an assortment of Kobalt tools from Lowes. While they are not top of the line they seem to be decent for the price for the average DIY project. I have not broken or damaged any of the sockets or ratchets I have from them and they have seen some abuse as i slowly work on my project car and various everyday repairs.
I also recommend the 25″ breaker bar from harbor freight. For $10 its really a nice piece to have for some of the more stubborn fasteners.
I looked around as best I could for signs of leaks and did not see any. I do not have a black light available nor do I have access to a professional scan tool.
I did add some refrigerant to see if that helped the pressures because initially I was getting similar readings on the low side but only about 120psi on the high side.
The clutch in the compressor is cycling on and off while the ac is on, and the low side line is cold to the touch with condensation on the outside of it.
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