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My name is Jeremy, some of my friends refer to me as Jeronimo (I’ll leap right into pretty much any automotive situation). I have worked in automotive for over 15 years, starting as a pit-guy at a busy Jiffy lube to running shops for major chains. I did body and restoration for a couple years, found it dusty. I’m currently doing double duty as tech & service manager for a corporate retail chain service center. I got into automotive because as Eric says, car stuff is fun. My experience has been with the general public (haven’t made the move to a dealer although I’ve considered it) and as such I see most popular makes/models <60k on the road. Saw/worked on a lot of classic iron during my body years. I certainly haven't seen it all though I've seen a bit. 😉 Love to help out where I can. Looking forward to chatting with everyone.
My name is Jeremy, some of my friends refer to me as Jeronimo (I’ll leap right into pretty much any automotive situation). I have worked in automotive for over 15 years, starting as a pit-guy at a busy Jiffy lube to running shops for major chains. I did body and restoration for a couple years, found it dusty. I’m currently doing double duty as tech & service manager for a corporate retail chain service center. I got into automotive because as Eric says, car stuff is fun. My experience has been with the general public (haven’t made the move to a dealer although I’ve considered it) and as such I see most popular makes/models <60k on the road. Saw/worked on a lot of classic iron during my body years. I certainly haven't seen it all though I've seen a bit. 😉 Love to help out where I can. Looking forward to chatting with everyone.
I have worked in shops using Identifix and shops that don’t. I have to say if you have the volume of diagnostics to support it, it’s worth it’s weight in gold.
Identifix gives you more than just common fixes, it’s invaluable if you’re working in the aftermarket and not a dealer. It gives you TSB’s, recall information, and excellent component and wiring diagrams (I appreciate some of their simplified system diagrams myself). More than that, many issues will list test procedures which are critical to proper diagnosis… which we all know is the game changer at the end of the day. For those of you that believe that you know everything about every system on a modern car I ask: Are you getting factory training? Are you staying up to date on all the new systems added each year by all the new manufacturers? I don’t know about you guys but I have a family that I not only support, I even like to spend time with them every now and then 😆 I work 6-7 days a week to pay the bills and the company I work for doesn’t send me to school every six months… or ever for that matter.
Things are different at a dealer for sure, especially for some of the mfg’s that really focus on factory training. In the aftermarket Identifix is not guaranteed to line your pockets right away, but learn to use it for a few months and tell me it hasn’t taught you a thing or two. Yes you may be able to find a pattern failure or valid repair procedure from a google search eventually, but you have to sift through a multitude of garbage posts by people who are not professionals and often have no idea what they’re talking about. The internet is a good resource but Identifix is tech to tech, not public to tech. We all know every minute you spend diagnosing is a minute you aren’t turning more hours. It’s dollars off your paycheck. So yes, Identifix. Good.
I have worked in shops using Identifix and shops that don’t. I have to say if you have the volume of diagnostics to support it, it’s worth it’s weight in gold.
Identifix gives you more than just common fixes, it’s invaluable if you’re working in the aftermarket and not a dealer. It gives you TSB’s, recall information, and excellent component and wiring diagrams (I appreciate some of their simplified system diagrams myself). More than that, many issues will list test procedures which are critical to proper diagnosis… which we all know is the game changer at the end of the day. For those of you that believe that you know everything about every system on a modern car I ask: Are you getting factory training? Are you staying up to date on all the new systems added each year by all the new manufacturers? I don’t know about you guys but I have a family that I not only support, I even like to spend time with them every now and then 😆 I work 6-7 days a week to pay the bills and the company I work for doesn’t send me to school every six months… or ever for that matter.
Things are different at a dealer for sure, especially for some of the mfg’s that really focus on factory training. In the aftermarket Identifix is not guaranteed to line your pockets right away, but learn to use it for a few months and tell me it hasn’t taught you a thing or two. Yes you may be able to find a pattern failure or valid repair procedure from a google search eventually, but you have to sift through a multitude of garbage posts by people who are not professionals and often have no idea what they’re talking about. The internet is a good resource but Identifix is tech to tech, not public to tech. We all know every minute you spend diagnosing is a minute you aren’t turning more hours. It’s dollars off your paycheck. So yes, Identifix. Good.
I would actually recommend bypassing Sears and heading straight for your internet :cheer: Amazon has awesome deals on most of what you need, from impact sockets and wrenches(check out Tekton, awesome value and good quality stuff) to hammers and your impact gun (I got my IR 2135Ti Max off amazon brand new w/2 yr factory warranty for 200 bucks LESS than what the tool truck guy asked for the same exact gun). Lots of high quality hand tools on Amazon. Get a nice set of gear wrenches (the sealed type, not the open “sandwich” style as they get fouled and jam), they’re awesome time savers even early on. Overall Amazon is much cheaper than Sears.
There are certain items you just don’t mess around with, primarily ratchets. Get a professional quality ratchet, or grab a Craftsman and learn the lesson a few times (tip: wear gloves w/padded knuckles). I grabbed a few entry level (matco’s silver eagle line, similar to snap-on’s blue point stuff) 1/4,3/8 & 1/2 drive general service sets to start when they were on promo. Craftsman “professional” is some nice stuff, but by then you’re pretty much spending tool truck prices. Some of the nicer tool truck tools trickle down into craftsman from time to time, like matco’s impact universal joints (wayyyy better than the old ball n pin). Most of all, especially as a lube tech,get a high quality 3/8 torque wrench if your employer does not provide one! Aluminum oil pans are NOT forgiving, my friend, and no manager wants to deal with the new guy’s learning curve by buying a dozen oil pans, or worse a motor.
Lastly don’t forget e-bay and pawn/thrift shops. Some nice finds there, although if you’re trying to get geared up in a quickness it may not be feasible to scrounge around. You’ll pick up tools as you go but your basics will last you throughout your career if you shop smart. If there’s a Harbor Freight (or equivalent) near you it’s also a great place to pick up some basic stuff too if you’re on a really tight budget, just understand some of it is going to break. Good luck and happy wrenching, buddy!
I would actually recommend bypassing Sears and heading straight for your internet :cheer: Amazon has awesome deals on most of what you need, from impact sockets and wrenches(check out Tekton, awesome value and good quality stuff) to hammers and your impact gun (I got my IR 2135Ti Max off amazon brand new w/2 yr factory warranty for 200 bucks LESS than what the tool truck guy asked for the same exact gun). Lots of high quality hand tools on Amazon. Get a nice set of gear wrenches (the sealed type, not the open “sandwich” style as they get fouled and jam), they’re awesome time savers even early on. Overall Amazon is much cheaper than Sears.
There are certain items you just don’t mess around with, primarily ratchets. Get a professional quality ratchet, or grab a Craftsman and learn the lesson a few times (tip: wear gloves w/padded knuckles). I grabbed a few entry level (matco’s silver eagle line, similar to snap-on’s blue point stuff) 1/4,3/8 & 1/2 drive general service sets to start when they were on promo. Craftsman “professional” is some nice stuff, but by then you’re pretty much spending tool truck prices. Some of the nicer tool truck tools trickle down into craftsman from time to time, like matco’s impact universal joints (wayyyy better than the old ball n pin). Most of all, especially as a lube tech,get a high quality 3/8 torque wrench if your employer does not provide one! Aluminum oil pans are NOT forgiving, my friend, and no manager wants to deal with the new guy’s learning curve by buying a dozen oil pans, or worse a motor.
Lastly don’t forget e-bay and pawn/thrift shops. Some nice finds there, although if you’re trying to get geared up in a quickness it may not be feasible to scrounge around. You’ll pick up tools as you go but your basics will last you throughout your career if you shop smart. If there’s a Harbor Freight (or equivalent) near you it’s also a great place to pick up some basic stuff too if you’re on a really tight budget, just understand some of it is going to break. Good luck and happy wrenching, buddy!
The legality of this is definately in question as these laws differ state to state. I’m curious what chain you work for, I have a few guesses, and yes I know you can’t say 🙂 Either way, most companies I’ve worked for will give you a form and tell you it’s mandatory to sign it to remain employed, which ultimately means corporate can set policy as they please. but not necessarily follow through with the punishment. There’s definitely an intimidation factor as well. In any event, any technician worth their shirt will walk away from the deal you mention and find a better employer. Our industry is rife with murphy’s law (whatever can happen will happen) and as a previous poster stated, you cannot be held accountable for things beyond your control. Any good shop manager knows this and plans accordingly when selling a job, or can handle the fallout when the unexpected happens. Unfortunately in the disclaimer based society we live in where the corporations with their armies of lawyers on retention make the rules, your control of the situation is really limited to your choice of employer. The alternative is to hire a lawyer of your own and fight back… lemme know how that works out for ya! 😉
The legality of this is definately in question as these laws differ state to state. I’m curious what chain you work for, I have a few guesses, and yes I know you can’t say 🙂 Either way, most companies I’ve worked for will give you a form and tell you it’s mandatory to sign it to remain employed, which ultimately means corporate can set policy as they please. but not necessarily follow through with the punishment. There’s definitely an intimidation factor as well. In any event, any technician worth their shirt will walk away from the deal you mention and find a better employer. Our industry is rife with murphy’s law (whatever can happen will happen) and as a previous poster stated, you cannot be held accountable for things beyond your control. Any good shop manager knows this and plans accordingly when selling a job, or can handle the fallout when the unexpected happens. Unfortunately in the disclaimer based society we live in where the corporations with their armies of lawyers on retention make the rules, your control of the situation is really limited to your choice of employer. The alternative is to hire a lawyer of your own and fight back… lemme know how that works out for ya! 😉
I’m not sure which “book” you’re referring to 😛 , I’ve used mainly Mitchell as a labor guide throughout the years. While the discs are furthest in and there’s some shared labor, they don’t necessarily involve removing the pads from the caliper/bracket or cleaning & lubing the caliper slides, caliper hardware, etc. Most places I’ve worked pay roughly an hour flat for a pads & rotors brake job, sometimes 1.2. This of course excludes older mainly japanese cars with back of the hub serviced rotors and 4wd cars with complex hubs. Then there’s two wheel drive trucks with bearings in the rotors you must either replace or repack, plus additional torque procedures. There’s no “one time fits all” brake service number of course, but a solid flat-rate hour should be the minimum to do it right. Otherwise you’re just cutting corners at the expense of the quality of your work.
And don’t forget to check the brake fluid and recommend flush that junk out per test strip results or mfg scheduled maintenance cycle.
I’m not sure which “book” you’re referring to 😛 , I’ve used mainly Mitchell as a labor guide throughout the years. While the discs are furthest in and there’s some shared labor, they don’t necessarily involve removing the pads from the caliper/bracket or cleaning & lubing the caliper slides, caliper hardware, etc. Most places I’ve worked pay roughly an hour flat for a pads & rotors brake job, sometimes 1.2. This of course excludes older mainly japanese cars with back of the hub serviced rotors and 4wd cars with complex hubs. Then there’s two wheel drive trucks with bearings in the rotors you must either replace or repack, plus additional torque procedures. There’s no “one time fits all” brake service number of course, but a solid flat-rate hour should be the minimum to do it right. Otherwise you’re just cutting corners at the expense of the quality of your work.
And don’t forget to check the brake fluid and recommend flush that junk out per test strip results or mfg scheduled maintenance cycle.