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I did a quick search of TSBs for a 2008 Pilot. Refer to this link http://www.automd.com/recall-tsb/search/?m=Honda&mm=Pilot&y=2008
None of these however were related to oil leaks. If Honda does not come through with a fix you might want to change back to conventional oil. Monitor your oil leak for at least two oil changes before you go to the time and trouble to repair it out of your pocket.Not sure if this could possibly be an issue but have you recently done a oil change using synthetic oil ? Sometimes that will cause some leaks that would not have occurred with the use of conventional oil. Perhaps Eric could address this as well.
Yes, very interesting about what the real issue was with your gas mileage. You might try this link for some used springs. They are located in North Carolina so it might not be worth your while as far as shipping costs even if they have the parts. Just a suggestion…
http://www.beavershondasalvage.com/You will probably get varied opinions on this question. I have a 09 Honda Fit that is driven about 11K/year. I change my oil twice a year just to be on the safe side. My oil life meter never goes below 40%. I just don’t personally rely to much on that meter as an accurate gage of oil life.
Quoted From 619DioFan:
Make sure that the caliper mounting slides are lubed well so they can slide freely.
+1 on lubing the caliper slide pins. Please be sure to use silicon paste only on the pins. Clean first, then just a light coating on the pins.
First thanks to everyone who posted their comments and advice. All of the advice came in handy. I have just finished replacing the door lock actuator on my 05 Accord and all door locks are functioning again ! The OEM part was about $21 + tax from the dealer. Repair time was about two hours, I just took my time being careful not to break any of the plastic parts. Removing the actuator and lock assembly from inside the door cavity was bit of a challenge, but it finally came out through the door opening. I also found a good DIY for a 2005 Accord that was a big help as well.
See this link if you are interested:
http://www.greenhybrid.com/discuss/f27/how-guide-replacing-your-power-door-lock-actuator-hah-21153/Quoted From skim3544:
My guess is about 10 hours. Which valve is leaking? Front ofr the V or back? the back side cylinder head is more difficult to work with. But I would just skilp the car – even if you fix the engine, the transmission isn’t going to last that long to make it worth it.
That generation Acura CL is known for transmission problems. I would be very careful about going to the trouble of pulling the heads and then find out about tranny issues later. Try to get info. about the transmission from previous owner if posssible.
Eric’s video is worth every penny for a DIYer wanting to replace a timing belt(s) for a four cylinder Accord of that generation. Just follow the video exactly and you can’t go wrong.
Great to hear that your EGR cleaning fixed your gas mileage issues. Sounds like you are getting around 20 mpg vs 11 mpg, if I did my math. right. My 05 V6 gets around 21 mpg city driving. Just remember that winter blend gas and short trips will have an affect on your gas mileage. That generation Accord with the V6 is a fine car IMO. Any other issues/questions please post and I am sure someone can help.
Drive the car until operating temp. has been reached, thermostat has opened and temp. gauge is in it’s normal range. Shut-off engine and place in park position. Then check fluid level within 90 seconds of shutting down engine. That’s pretty standard for Honda’s.
Your valve cover has been removed once before and it sounds like someone used Hondabond between the gasket and valve cover. That’s why you were left with the mess that you had described. You only need to apply either a little Hondabond or RTV to the four corners where the cover goes over the front and rear camshaft caps. Let RTV or Hondabond sealant slightly hardened before installing the valve cover, but no more than approx. 10 mins. before installing the cover. Cold or damp weather will take a little extra time..
You should have purchased an oil pan gasket rather than using Hondabond as your gasket. Hondabond was not intended for what you needed in your situation. Only choice is remove pan again and replace with an OEM gasket.
I do not have firsthand knowledge of your 2004 Odyssey mounts. But I did find a how-to for a 2002 Odyssey. Try this link http://www.odyclub.com/forums/24-1999-2004-odyssey/149905-diy-instructions-replace-all-5-motor-mounts.html
I think Eric has a Odyssey so he could provide firsthand input. I just did the front and passenger side mounts for a 2002 Accord and on that car the rear mount was the least likely to fail. Don’t know if this would apply to your van also. Have you had someone apply the brake to car and then rev the engine. Watch the rear mount area and see if the engine “climbs” upward. Watch the other mounts also you might have more than one problem based on the mileage of your van.
Keep us posted on what you find.I just wanted to follow-up with the replacement of the front and right (passenger-side) engine mounts for my 02 Accord V6. I used my Haynes manual as a basic guide along with all the advice provided by this forum. The front mount steps in the Haynes manual are over simplified. Read below for details Thanks to everyone who posted. The passenger side was pretty straight forward. The steps were as follows:
1. Jack-up front of car and place jack stands on each side of the car. Assume that you know how to do this properly and safely.
2. Place floor jack under the transaxle to remove weight from the mount. Be sure to use a block of wood between jack and transaxle.
3. Disconnect negative battery cable. Just a safety measure here, just in case. Be sure that you have activation code prior to disconnecting.
4. Cruise control assembly over the mount needs to be moved out of the way in order to access/remove the mount. Remove the two 10mm bolts on the cruise control mounting bracket and disconnect the wiring connection near the unit. Rotate the entire assembly over and place on top of upper intake.
5. Remove the 17mm through-bolt in center of mount and 10mm bolt for the electrical cable.
6. Remove to two 14mm bolts holding the engine bracket in place. Remove the three 14mm mount-to chassis bolts. There is also a plastic tubing support for a A/C line. Just remove A/C line away from support. Support will be reused for the new mount. Remove the mount up through the path you created by removing the cruise control assembly.
7. Installation is the reserve steps of removal. I used a little Loctite on the the nuts/ bolts. If you are only replacing this mount that basically it, if however you are replacing the front mount don’t replace the 17mm through-bolt in step 5. You will need this bolt removed to jack-up the engine high enough to remove the front mount. Notice the bold print…Front mount was more difficult for a DIYer. Eric was right about lifting the engine high enough to clear the center stud of the mount and this would be a possible issue. So the steps for the front mount were as follows:
1. Remove 17mm nut where the mount stud goes through the engine bracket.
2. Remove the four 14mm bolts holding the mount to the chassis cross member, then disconnect the vacuum hose from the bottom of the mount.
3. Raise the engine enough for the stud to clear the upper engine bracket and remove mount upward past the upper radiator hose. No clearance issues in this removal path.
4. Just suffice to say that reinstall was trail and error. First install vacuum line to bottom of mount. Then install 17mm nut that goes on top of engine mount bracket.
5. This step is where I wound-up using two floor jacks. The first one was already in place under the oil pan and a second floor jack was placed under the transaxle. The two jacks were then carefully lowered and raised such that the four mounting holes in the mount started to align with the engine chassis mount. This was the tricky part and I hope my explanation somewhat gets the point across. Then it was just a matter of replacing the four 14mm bolts.
6. Replace the 17mm bolt that you left removed on the passenger side mount.
7. Raise car and remove floor jacks. Do final tightening of mount bolts when wheels are back on the a level surface.
Total time for all of this was about three hours. The front mount was about 2/3 of this time and as I mentioned some trial and error. I would also recommend using Honda OE parts for this repair. Total cost was around $190 shipping & parts from Bernardiparts.com. I hope this helps someone in the future. Sorry for no pictures to go along with my words but I was pushed for time.Quoted From triplextreme2:
thank you every one your guys are a great help. i will look into all of this when the weather gets better being i dont have a garage to work in. the odd thing is i cant get it to throw the codes again its running fine after i half ass cleaned it . im taking my best beat is take the whole intake off so i can clean it better ?and clean the passages on the block? can i take the egr off and spray it or should i not touch it just in case. man im glad i dont have the older style like in that link that seems like a pain in the ass lol
If it were me I would leave the upper intake on the car and clean per the link provided. Would not hurt to remove the EGR and clean. Just be careful with the gasket when removing. The other link provided for the intake cleaning and drilling was for a 1998-2002 V6 Accord so your setup is different as you mentioned.