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If you have a drive by wire throttle body you might have damaged it by doing the cleaning that you had mentioned. Several questions and issues have been mentioned in this forum after trying to clean a drive by wire throttle body. Basically leave these alone unless you are having problems.
Quoted From sarmientor:
250k miles bought it about 3 weeks ago I don’t want to replace the power steering pump just yet because I read somewhere that the o-rings on the line feeding the pump sometimes go bad and let’s air into the system I’m really hoping is not the rack and pinion going bad has anyone dealt with this type of issue before any help or tips would be greatly appreciated thnx
Replacing the o-ring in the pump suction line applied to the 7th generation Accords not the sixth generation Accords (98-02). HondaTSB 07-086 addressed this issue. Be sure that you have only used Honda power steering fliud and level is correct. Have you checked the belt tension and condition ? Honda power steering pumps last a long time provided you have not run it low on fluid for extended periods.
Sub frame and motor mounts are two different components. Eric is saying both come into play in order to raise engine enough to clear the rear engine mount bolt in center of the mount. Rear mount can be a pain to replace because of this reason.
Quoted From steve1990:
Sometimes when you take the old filter off, the seal that seals the filter to the truck doesn’t come off with the filter, if that’s the case when you put the new filter on the old seal was still in there and you double sealed it and that can easily cause oil leaks…If not its quite possible that the filter wasn’t tightened down enough but i don’t think that would be the case as they really don’t need to be tight to begin with. Take a look at your old filter and see if it still has a seal on it.
+1 on checking the new filter for the old seal that might still be there. But this usually results in a very noticeable leak. Suggest that you also use some brake clean to degrease that area and above the filter to help locate the source of your leak. Then recheck entire area that was degreased for leaks.
Assume that you are referring to one of the engine support mounts ? Usually a floor jack and piece of 2×4 between the oil pan and cup of jack or at the transaxle depending on which mount that you are replacing is all that you need.
[quote]Quoted From clearanceman:
Eric and all: What do you guys think of this conversion, the top one would fit my car it replaces the hubs and bearings and converts them to slide on rotors. Comes with hubs, bearings already fit and slide on rotors and pads for $399. I’m going to mic my rotors and see. If they are too thin, maybe wait until I need pads anyway and then do this?
http://tasauto.com/Product/Detail.aspx?s=192100&h=75&d=271
I have seen this kit as well. I was curious about others experience after using this conversion kit. Did you try to Google and see if any feedback was available. I would also base using that kit on how long you plan to keep the car vs the expense.
Quoted From clearanceman:
I hate to open it up because the wheel bearings have 219,000 miles. I guess I could ignore that and just do the rotors if needed. Probably all of it needs to be done but they aren’t making any noise. If I can live with the rotors or get them turned, I think it would be better to wait until it needs a wheel bearing. The car only gets driven about 6000 miles per year. Will the wheel bearings give any warning when they go before they take out the hub?
I would just deal with having the rotors turned on the car for now. If you were to replace the rotors then at that point in time replace the wheel bearings. Bearings will start to make a thumping noise with no warning in the Honda’s that I have owned.
Quoted From pcmdjason:
Well I figured at $18 for a belt that sounds a lot better than a new car. However I priced some junk yard heads and found them in the $150 range so that’s not a bit problem.
I can’t remember did Eric do a video on timing belts for this car?
Yes, Eric has great video for 1990-2002 Accords that can be purchased for about $11 on this website. It’s well worth the money.
Yes, as Eric stated common problem for actuators to fail. I recently had to replace one on the front passengers side for my 05 Accord. Same generation as your 03.
I found this DIY useful when doing this repair, it was for a 05, but again should be similar. Refer to this link http://www.greenhybrid.com/discuss/f27/how-guide-replacing-your-power-door-lock-actuator-hah-21153/The youtube video shows the steps needed to change your cabin filter for that generation Accord. Follow those steps and you should have no problems. Just be aware of the air flow direction arrows on the old filter and install new filter in the same direction. Cabin filter should run around $20 for that model, just one required. For my 05 Accord no guidance given related to changing the cabin filter in the owners manual, noticed that to be true for some other Honda’s as well.
I can’t give an opinion about the reman. trans. through Advance Auto Parts. I had my trans. rebuilt on my 02 Accord V6 about 15K miles ago at a cost of $1800 parts and labor. The local Honda dealer and another shop that specializes in Hondas quoted me around $3400 for a reman., that included labor. Also that generation of Honda’s are known as the transmissions being the weak link in what is otherwise a good car. Perhaps someone else in the forum can provide some input about Advance Auto transmissions ?
Quoted From college man:
If the transmission is under warranty I would suggest taking it back to who did the work. If you wanted to you could
check the transmission fluid to see if the level is correct. You also need to find out if genuine Honda transmission
fluid was used. otherwise that could be part of the driving issues your having.C8-)if you look in your owners manual
for the instructions on checking transmission fluid level. this will guide you on the procedure.+1 on verfiying if Honda trans. fluid is currently being used, perhaps check with previous owner. Honda’s require ONLY OEM trans. fluid to be used, otherwise problems will occur. As for checking the trans. fluid,first drive the car and reach normal operating temp., then shut-off engine, car in park and on level surface, within 90 seconds check fluid level. You mentioned CEL code related to EGR. What was the code? That would be helpful for troubleshooting your problem.
Quoted From Six6vetteguy:
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/tsb/accord/A99-085.pdf
This is a tsb article for all Hondas for that year span. It explains the fix. It might help you.
The link provided as stated is a good one to recheck your work. The other link provided only applies to 94-97 Accords with a 4 cylinder engine.
Eric has a good video for the 1998-2002 V6 Honda/Acura. See this link http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HRp6RWZ1egM
Just a dumb question, but did you disconnect the negative battery cable after doing what you had described in order to clear the code ? Be sure you have the radio code handy if it is still the original radio.
Also make sure all electrical and hoses are attached properly. Let us know if this helps.Just follow the steps on the video that Beefy provided the link. The two screws that attach rotor to the hub can be a pain, but again follow the tips in the video.
The front rotors for a 1990-1997 Accord are a real pain to remove. These are known as “captive rotors” and Eric has a video for removal of those also. If the front rotors are still good from a min. thickness standpoint I would go to a shop that can machine the rotors on the car rather than remove them.I have a 2002 V6 Accord that had about 110K miles when I started using synthetic oil and then a leak at the rear main seal appeared. Switched back to conventional oil and after about 8K mile the leak stopped. No more leaks in that area at 143K miles. I would just change oil when it’s time and monitor before you lay down $1200. I would be angry as well with 2008 car that leaked oil. But just give it time.