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How many miles since the timing belt and water pump was replaced ? I assume that with 180k this has been done at least one time. There are a couple of idler pulleys under the timing belt cover that might be suspect as well if these are the original pulleys. Could be water pump, but a little hard to tell without some more information.
How many miles since the timing belt and water pump was replaced ? I assume that with 180k this has been done at least one time. There are a couple of idler pulleys under the timing belt cover that might be suspect as well if these are the original pulleys. Could be water pump, but a little hard to tell without some more information.
If you followed Eric’s video and you are sure that all the air in the coolant is purged I would check that off the list. Probably not tstat issue as well. Try this, when the car is having the fluctuating idle take the handle of a screwdirver and tap on the IACV. If the idle stopped flucuating then IACV is the culprit. You might also try to remove the IACV and clean. The screen on one of the ports will get blocked, so I have used brake cleaner or throttle body cleaner in the past. Eric usually says replace and don’t bother to clean. You might want to check the fast idle valve. After you remove the cover there is a screw that you can turn clockwise that sometimes corrects the idle issue. Eric has some great videos that address both of the above mentioned items. Good luck and keep us posted on what you find.
If you followed Eric’s video and you are sure that all the air in the coolant is purged I would check that off the list. Probably not tstat issue as well. Try this, when the car is having the fluctuating idle take the handle of a screwdirver and tap on the IACV. If the idle stopped flucuating then IACV is the culprit. You might also try to remove the IACV and clean. The screen on one of the ports will get blocked, so I have used brake cleaner or throttle body cleaner in the past. Eric usually says replace and don’t bother to clean. You might want to check the fast idle valve. After you remove the cover there is a screw that you can turn clockwise that sometimes corrects the idle issue. Eric has some great videos that address both of the above mentioned items. Good luck and keep us posted on what you find.
Not sure exactly how to remove your air filter housing. But you are correct about the location of the intake air control valve. It’s located at the rear of the intake manifold between the manifold and the firewall. If’s it like an Accord the working room is tight. Probably need a 1/4″ drive ratchet with 12mm socket in order to remove and clean the iacv. If you remove the two coolant lines on the iacv you will need to purge the coolant system again.
Not sure exactly how to remove your air filter housing. But you are correct about the location of the intake air control valve. It’s located at the rear of the intake manifold between the manifold and the firewall. If’s it like an Accord the working room is tight. Probably need a 1/4″ drive ratchet with 12mm socket in order to remove and clean the iacv. If you remove the two coolant lines on the iacv you will need to purge the coolant system again.
Yes, as stated earlier the 1998 was the first year Accords used a cabin filter. The 1998-2002 are a pain to replace compared to 2003 and up. They are located behind the glovebox but it’s not as simple as just removing the glovebox. There’s usually some instructions included with the filters. But you might want to either search Youtube or go to some of the Accord forums for DIY info with pictures or video. Plan on about at least 45 minutes the first time you attempt this and keep track of all the screws. Probably about dozen or so fasteners to remove in the process of the changeout along with three dash panels that must be removed. Just take your time and you can do this..
Yes, as stated earlier the 1998 was the first year Accords used a cabin filter. The 1998-2002 are a pain to replace compared to 2003 and up. They are located behind the glovebox but it’s not as simple as just removing the glovebox. There’s usually some instructions included with the filters. But you might want to either search Youtube or go to some of the Accord forums for DIY info with pictures or video. Plan on about at least 45 minutes the first time you attempt this and keep track of all the screws. Probably about dozen or so fasteners to remove in the process of the changeout along with three dash panels that must be removed. Just take your time and you can do this..
[quote]Quoted From dreamer2355: _x000D_
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Welcome to the forums._x000D_
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Is the hissing noise definitely coming from the transaxle or are you hearing a vacuum leak?_x000D_
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Did you check your transaxle fluid to see how it looks and to see if its full? Any leaks?_x000D_I tried to look around on the Internet as well for the Honda adapter. Can’t seem to find one unless you buy a complete kit similar to what Eric had
See if this helps http://www.ehow.com/how_12148239_check-fuel-pressure-1997-honda-accord.html_x000D_
It has PSI specs included. As stated earlier by Eric, no schrader port onQuoted From sjrobinson: _x000D_
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Fuel rail is what the injectors are attached to? I think I saw a bolt on the end of that. Although the filter is pretty easy to reach. Thats much easier. Now to find the guage…_x000D_
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Yes, exactly. Never neQuoted From EricTheCarGuy: _x000D_
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Not on Honda’s for those you need to remove the banjo fitting on the fuel rail itself to tie into the system for pressure testing._x000D_
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Note Eric’s advise “remove the banjo fitting on the fuel rail