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Yes, I am looking at Moog as my first choice and Beck Arnley is a close second. There’s only about $10 total difference in cost between the two. No machine shops close me, thus the reason for just replacing with new control arms and be done with it. None of the local indy shops want to offer to do this either. Thanks for your feedback.
Yes, I am looking at Moog as my first choice and Beck Arnley is a close second. There’s only about $10 total difference in cost between the two. No machine shops close me, thus the reason for just replacing with new control arms and be done with it. None of the local indy shops want to offer to do this either. Thanks for your feedback.
Yes those transmissions had issues and ridinred24 has some good advice. If it passes his suggestion here’s one maintenance tip related the external trans. filter.
See this link: http://tl.acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=706003&highlight=transmission+filter
Only use Acura/Honda OEM fluid in these transmissions otherwise problems will occur !
But definitely try to check the history of this transmission prior to buying..Yes those transmissions had issues and ridinred24 has some good advice. If it passes his suggestion here’s one maintenance tip related the external trans. filter.
See this link: http://tl.acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=706003&highlight=transmission+filter
Only use Acura/Honda OEM fluid in these transmissions otherwise problems will occur !
But definitely try to check the history of this transmission prior to buying..I finished earlier today replacing the front and passenger side engine mounts on my 2005 Accord V6.
Just wanted to share some information about this job and perhaps it will help someone else. Sorry no pictures other than the old mounts. There several DIY with pics on either driveaccord.net or acurazine.com if needed.
Tools I used for the job are as follows:
10mm, 12mm, 14mm , and 17 mm sockets (mount bolts and nuts are 14mm and 17mm)
1/2″ breaker bar and 1/2″ ratchet
universal extension (wobble type) and some misc. extensions
floor jack and 2 x 4 x ~6″lg. for placing between jack and engineStarted with front mount first. Remove plastic shroud on bottom of car and remove driver side cooling fan, battery and tray. Noticed that some people remove the pass. side fan in order to remove the driver side. I decided to go this route. While you are under the car remove the vacuum line on the bottom of the mount.
Also need to remove upper radiator hose and burp cooling system after you are finished with reassembly.
Place floor jack with 2×4 between jack cup and transaxle. Raise enough to make contact at this point in time.
Remove the two bolts on the bumper bracket that goes over the mount.
Remove 17mm horiz. bolt that goes through mount.
Remove the four mounting bolts that are attached to the sub-frame. This is where you will need the universal extension in order to remove the left rear bolt. Having the extension at a slight angle makes this much easier.
Raise engine with jack enough to allow mount to be removed and replaced.
Re-install is just the reverse. Be sure not to forget to reattach the vacuum line to the bottom of the mount.Side mount is pretty straight forward. Place your floor jack with 2×4 under the oil pan and raise with slight contact to pan.
Slide power steering reservoir out of the way.
Remove 17mm horizontal bolt first and then two bolts for the engine bracket.
Remove the two remaining bolts that attach mount to body. Note that there is a direction arrow on the mount flange that points towards the front of the car. Re-install new mount with arrow in the same direction. Reverse steps to re-install.
I did not have a torque wrench so I just did all the bolts snug tight.See the attached pictures for the old mounts. The pieces with the lugs attached to the rubber are supposed to be vertical and obviously should not be torn away from the surrounding rubber.
I used OEM parts and the cost was about $260 from Bernardiparts.com. Local Honda dealer wanted $622 parts and labor for this job. Hope this helps someone !I finished earlier today replacing the front and passenger side engine mounts on my 2005 Accord V6.
Just wanted to share some information about this job and perhaps it will help someone else. Sorry no pictures other than the old mounts. There several DIY with pics on either driveaccord.net or acurazine.com if needed.
Tools I used for the job are as follows:
10mm, 12mm, 14mm , and 17 mm sockets (mount bolts and nuts are 14mm and 17mm)
1/2″ breaker bar and 1/2″ ratchet
universal extension (wobble type) and some misc. extensions
floor jack and 2 x 4 x ~6″lg. for placing between jack and engineStarted with front mount first. Remove plastic shroud on bottom of car and remove driver side cooling fan, battery and tray. Noticed that some people remove the pass. side fan in order to remove the driver side. I decided to go this route. While you are under the car remove the vacuum line on the bottom of the mount.
Also need to remove upper radiator hose and burp cooling system after you are finished with reassembly.
Place floor jack with 2×4 between jack cup and transaxle. Raise enough to make contact at this point in time.
Remove the two bolts on the bumper bracket that goes over the mount.
Remove 17mm horiz. bolt that goes through mount.
Remove the four mounting bolts that are attached to the sub-frame. This is where you will need the universal extension in order to remove the left rear bolt. Having the extension at a slight angle makes this much easier.
Raise engine with jack enough to allow mount to be removed and replaced.
Re-install is just the reverse. Be sure not to forget to reattach the vacuum line to the bottom of the mount.Side mount is pretty straight forward. Place your floor jack with 2×4 under the oil pan and raise with slight contact to pan.
Slide power steering reservoir out of the way.
Remove 17mm horizontal bolt first and then two bolts for the engine bracket.
Remove the two remaining bolts that attach mount to body. Note that there is a direction arrow on the mount flange that points towards the front of the car. Re-install new mount with arrow in the same direction. Reverse steps to re-install.
I did not have a torque wrench so I just did all the bolts snug tight.See the attached pictures for the old mounts. The pieces with the lugs attached to the rubber are supposed to be vertical and obviously should not be torn away from the surrounding rubber.
I used OEM parts and the cost was about $260 from Bernardiparts.com. Local Honda dealer wanted $622 parts and labor for this job. Hope this helps someone !See this link for a detailed explanation for removing the upper intake and cleaning EGR passages:
http://www.acura-legend.com/vbulletin/f29/diy-intake-manifold-removal-egr-cleaning-79886/Your gas mileage will be reduced and you will probably have some hesitation, but cat will not be affected. EGR valves usually are not an issue with Honda/Acura. Clogged intake passages are most likely what is producing the CEL.
See this link for a detailed explanation for removing the upper intake and cleaning EGR passages:
http://www.acura-legend.com/vbulletin/f29/diy-intake-manifold-removal-egr-cleaning-79886/Your gas mileage will be reduced and you will probably have some hesitation, but cat will not be affected. EGR valves usually are not an issue with Honda/Acura. Clogged intake passages are most likely what is producing the CEL.
Thanks College Man, But this is for a 98-02 Accord. The 03-07 generation of Accord use a similar but different looking the mount. The bolt that goes to the engine mount bracket is horizontal vs vertical as shown in the steps. I wish that I had this when I did the mount on my 02 V6 last year.
I spoke with one of the local Honda shops and he confirmed what I had mentioned earlier about removing the cooling fan. But thanks for taking the time to find this info. I will report back after it’s repaired and perhaps this might help someone else.Thanks College Man, But this is for a 98-02 Accord. The 03-07 generation of Accord use a similar but different looking the mount. The bolt that goes to the engine mount bracket is horizontal vs vertical as shown in the steps. I wish that I had this when I did the mount on my 02 V6 last year.
I spoke with one of the local Honda shops and he confirmed what I had mentioned earlier about removing the cooling fan. But thanks for taking the time to find this info. I will report back after it’s repaired and perhaps this might help someone else.Plasmide56, thanks for your reply. I have already purchased the two mounts and they were within a dollar of the link you had provided. I did see this DIY when I was looking for the information on the steps to replace front mount. They are pretty general and could apply to many cars. After looking closer it appears that the left (driver side) cooling fan needs to be removed. This would in turn provide the clearance to remove the mount. I will post back within the next week or so when I have time to do these repairs.
Plasmide56, thanks for your reply. I have already purchased the two mounts and they were within a dollar of the link you had provided. I did see this DIY when I was looking for the information on the steps to replace front mount. They are pretty general and could apply to many cars. After looking closer it appears that the left (driver side) cooling fan needs to be removed. This would in turn provide the clearance to remove the mount. I will post back within the next week or so when I have time to do these repairs.
Switching to synthetic oil in a car that old might cause old leaks to occur that were not there prior to using conventional oil. Personally I would just use conventional oil and a quality oil filter. Change the oil and filter about every 5k miles. You will get a lot of opinions as to which brand to purchase, but any of the top brands should suffice. How many miles on this car ?
Switching to synthetic oil in a car that old might cause old leaks to occur that were not there prior to using conventional oil. Personally I would just use conventional oil and a quality oil filter. Change the oil and filter about every 5k miles. You will get a lot of opinions as to which brand to purchase, but any of the top brands should suffice. How many miles on this car ?
http://www.justanswer.com/mazda/6icvv-2005-mazda-6-cyl.html
Try the link above for more info.
