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Glad to hear that you have solved your problem ! I have attached a picture of the tool that I had mentioned.
+1 on the post from college man. Another couple of items that you might want to check as well. Inspect your lower control arm compliance bushings. These are located towards the front of the car. If you look at Eric’s video around 2:56 you will see one of these bushings. They will crack over time and if the crack is large enough you can get a clunking noise. Another area to check is the front and side engine mounts. Both of these mounts are common failure points for a Honda. Keep us posted on what you find.
+1 on the post from college man. Another couple of items that you might want to check as well. Inspect your lower control arm compliance bushings. These are located towards the front of the car. If you look at Eric’s video around 2:56 you will see one of these bushings. They will crack over time and if the crack is large enough you can get a clunking noise. Another area to check is the front and side engine mounts. Both of these mounts are common failure points for a Honda. Keep us posted on what you find.
You are saying that you are trying to compress the caliper piston by using a screwdriver and then turning the piston clockwise? After trying this method both pistons are frozen in the bore? I have a tool that works with a 3/8 in drive rachet. The tool looks like a small cube and each face has a pattern to match different piston styles. You can find these at Harbor Freight, Auto Zone to name a few. Perhaps try this instead?
You are saying that you are trying to compress the caliper piston by using a screwdriver and then turning the piston clockwise? After trying this method both pistons are frozen in the bore? I have a tool that works with a 3/8 in drive rachet. The tool looks like a small cube and each face has a pattern to match different piston styles. You can find these at Harbor Freight, Auto Zone to name a few. Perhaps try this instead?
No, that tool will not work for that engine. You have a single overhead cam, not a double. The J30 V6 engine might have a problem with the rear cam moving slightly from the timing mark after removing the timing belt. If that happens just take a long straight box end wrench to the bolt on the cam gear and move it either cw or ccw depending on which way it rotated. Just need to move the cam gear back to tdc. Do not rotate the cam gear a full revolution when doing this! Cam and crank seals normally do not leak on these engines. Just leave those alone unless you see a leak.
No, that tool will not work for that engine. You have a single overhead cam, not a double. The J30 V6 engine might have a problem with the rear cam moving slightly from the timing mark after removing the timing belt. If that happens just take a long straight box end wrench to the bolt on the cam gear and move it either cw or ccw depending on which way it rotated. Just need to move the cam gear back to tdc. Do not rotate the cam gear a full revolution when doing this! Cam and crank seals normally do not leak on these engines. Just leave those alone unless you see a leak.
First, I have not replaced mounts on that exact car. I have done a couple of V6 Accords and those were not to bad as far as access in order to remove/replace. But if you have replaced other mounts before the basic steps should apply. First support the oil pan with a floor jack. Place a short section of 2×4 between the jack cup and oil pan. Hard to tell from your picture but looks like you might remove the horizontal bolt first, maybe 17mm and then the 14mm bolts. Might need to first apply some PB Blaster on the bolts. Breaker bar might be required to loosen the bolts at first. Perhaps some other Acura DIYers could provide more detailed advice. One more thing, there is probably a vacuum line on each mount. Be sure to remove that before you try to remove the mount and replace line during reinstall.
First, I have not replaced mounts on that exact car. I have done a couple of V6 Accords and those were not to bad as far as access in order to remove/replace. But if you have replaced other mounts before the basic steps should apply. First support the oil pan with a floor jack. Place a short section of 2×4 between the jack cup and oil pan. Hard to tell from your picture but looks like you might remove the horizontal bolt first, maybe 17mm and then the 14mm bolts. Might need to first apply some PB Blaster on the bolts. Breaker bar might be required to loosen the bolts at first. Perhaps some other Acura DIYers could provide more detailed advice. One more thing, there is probably a vacuum line on each mount. Be sure to remove that before you try to remove the mount and replace line during reinstall.
It’s located behind the front camshaft sprocket on the timing belt cover. After you remove the sprocket there are two bolts on the cover. Remove the cover and the sensor is on the backside of the cover. You must follow the timing belt removal process to some extent in order to do this.
It’s located behind the front camshaft sprocket on the timing belt cover. After you remove the sprocket there are two bolts on the cover. Remove the cover and the sensor is on the backside of the cover. You must follow the timing belt removal process to some extent in order to do this.
Pretty sure that your car has a “drive by wire” throttle body. Meaning it does not have a throttle cable and it is electrically operated. If you try cleaning your throttle body you will be creating other issues. Short answer, don’t clean the throttle body..
Pretty sure that your car has a “drive by wire” throttle body. Meaning it does not have a throttle cable and it is electrically operated. If you try cleaning your throttle body you will be creating other issues. Short answer, don’t clean the throttle body..
I do not have experience doing lower control arms on a Jeep. But for most vehicles removing the bushings involves removing control arms and then removing the bushings with a press. Best bet is to go to either a machine shop or local garage with your control arms. They can then remove your old bushings and press in the new bushings. You might want to price just replacing the control arms vs replacing the bushings.
I do not have experience doing lower control arms on a Jeep. But for most vehicles removing the bushings involves removing control arms and then removing the bushings with a press. Best bet is to go to either a machine shop or local garage with your control arms. They can then remove your old bushings and press in the new bushings. You might want to price just replacing the control arms vs replacing the bushings.
