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Sounds like that you might have air in your coolant system as a result of opening the system during the thermostat replacement. Eric has a great video on refilling and venting a cooling system. I have recently purchased the Lisle refill funnel that Eric uses in the video and it does a great job. Purchased it on Amazon for about $24, great tool to have if you drain and refill your cars. Local parts company might have this as well.
Did the power steering squeal start after the refill of your cooling system ? If so you might have spilled some coolant on the power steering belt causing it to slip under load. Also have you checked the condition of the belt ? Might be in need of replacement.
Eric,
Thanks for that advice and tips about not flushing the system. The OE blue coolant is still in the system so I will just change when the timing belt and water pump is replaced at 100K.
Also thanks for all that you do related to this website and advice that you offer to others. I always learn something from the forums and your videos. Great bunch of people offering their advice as well.
The 1998-2007 Accords are known for transmission problems and yes there was a recall. Not sure if the age and possible mileage of your car that the Honda recall warranty would still come into play. Try to Google search and see what you can find. Added see this link for some info : http://blogs.cars.com/kickingtires/2011/08/recall-alert-2005-10-honda-accord-2007-10-honda-cr-v-2005-08-honda-element.html
Problem with trans. was overheating and then clutches failing resulting in slipping when shifting. Fix unfortunately is replace tranny with either a rebuilt or reman. transmission.
Eric is a Honda guy and could provide more detailed insight I am sure.
Agree with previous comment about trying to find a used vs new oil pan if possible. Yes, 14 year old car with rusted exhaust bolts will be a pain. Grip Tite sockets might come in handy for a job like this, rounded bolt heads will probably happen otherwise.
Personally I would just stick with mineral oil vs syn. oil for a 14 year old car. Just my opinion..
See this link for info. about leaks with syn. oil in an older car.
http://www.carbibles.com
then go to Engine Oil BibleSomeone on the forum posted a link to online Chilton manuals. Just place “Chilton” in the search box and you will find the link. This link was working about a week ago, not sure if it is still functioning. Also AutoZone.com offers repair info. for your car. Just create an account and then select area of interest related to your repair.
First, I would say replace the oil pan. I would not try the JB weld fix, that might be a short term fix but it will not hold long term. Suggest that you go to Autozone.com and then go to “Repair Info” tab at top of home page. Setup an account for your car and you will find step by step instructions on how to remove the oil pan. Pretty sure that removing the exhaust pipe is required as well as a cross member. Instructions should verify that.
If it is a V6 sounds like the tranny is going bad. As stated earlier 98-02 had transmission issues. Honda even extended the warranty on the transmissions, but due to age of car you are pass that coming into play. Definitely have the CEL codes read to get more insight into your problems.
I think using 4 to 5 feet of lever arm is the key to removing the crank bolt. I have seen some YouTube videos that applied heat to the bolt first and then used the methods that have been offered. If you are using quality tools I would not be to concerned about damaging the breaker bar. Also not sure if an O’Reilys Auto Parts is in your area, but I rented the crank bolt removal tool from them. I think AutoZone offers it as well. Let us know how this turns out..
Awesome, glad to hear that you got that crank bolt removed. The rest of job should hopefully go smooth.
I recently replaced a timing belt on a 97 Accord as well using Eric’s video. I did not use his method for crank bolt removal. I instead used the removal tool that slips over the bolt and then you use a breaker bar with the tool. See “Tools” section on this site for details. My crank bolt was hard to remove at first as well. I had to use a 5 ft. handle from a floor jack slipped over my breaker bar. Also used a few extensions such that the breaker bar cleared the fender well. Used a jack stand to support the extensions. It took some effort but it did come loose after what I described. Hope this helps..
If you have double checked the 3.5 Nm I would not worry about it. Just run the screw down snug as you normally would do for a screw of that size. Not sure about uploading a PDF on this site, never have tried personally to do that.
I have a 02 Accord with a V6 engine as well. The inlet air control valve is located in the intake duct between the air filter box and TB body ? If that’s the location I can take a look at my car later and get back to you. However I don’t think it’s a torx style screw. Perhaps a cap head that would require an allen wrench perhaps ?
First, post this question in the “Service & Repair” area. The 3.5 Nm is not related to the screw size. It is referring to the torque value of tightening the bolt/screw.
3.5 Nm is only 3 ft/lbs which is very low. Sure about this number ? Can’t help you with the screw size, but post your question in the forum section that I had mentioned.I also have a 2005 Accord V6. I can’t add anymore info. related to possible dragging brakes or O2 sensor issues. But a couple other things that you might be interested in trying related to maintenance. First one is to change the PCV valve on this car. It’s in an odd place and must be purchased from the Honda dealer or online. Its located under the front plastic cover for the plugs on the left side if you are looking at the firewall. After removing the cover you will see valve attached to the engine with a single bolt. Remove bolt and then slide out of engine. Second thing is to remove the EGR gallery cover plate on the top of the engine. Has about ~12 ten MM bolts. Clean the gallery with carb cleaner as needed. Be sure to torque all bolts evenly!