Forum Replies Created
- Replies
I ran across this DIY for cleaning the EGR passages. The car shown is a 2003 Pilot, but very similar if not equal to your 2004 Accord. Hope this helps. Note that amount of carbon built-up on the Pilot is nowhere near what your picture indicated. Keep us posted on the affect to your gas mileage.http://www.piloteers.org/forums/18-maintenance/25692-diy-intake-manifold-egr-port-cleaning.html
Eric
Yes, your description of the mounts is correct. I need to replace the front mount behind the radiator and the other mount on the timing belt side. The rear mount is OK. You mentioned dropping the sub frame for the front mount. I was not planning on doing this. After unbolting the stud bolt in the center of mount and the four bolts on the sub frame it appeared I could just raise the mount upward pass the radiator. First using a floor jack under the oil pan with block of wood. Then raising the engine enough to clear the center stud of the mount. There is a heat shield on the exhaust that blocks the back left bolt at first but after that is removed I can use a flex joint on my extension in order to gain access to the back left bolt.
So with all that said is there a clearance issue with removing the mount upward ? I did see on the internet when researching this job some people mentioned removing one of the radiator fans because of clearance issues.
Thanks again your input and advice.Quoted From IanG:
I replaced all the motor mounts on my 2000 EX V6. The hardest one to do was the rear. The front and passenger side are pretty easy. The only thing that was tricky was getting enough clearance on the front to push the new motor mount underneath. I had to muscle it a bit. I had more trouble aligning the four bolts on the rear. I dont remember if I had any issues with lining up the 4 bolts for the front motor mount. I wish I never bothered with the rear, kinda of a pain and it was in ok condition. You dont need to remove the radiator fan for it to work (I didnt).
IanG,
Thanks for that info. So for the front mount your removal path was to move into the “free” space upward past the upper radiator hose and it cleared everything OK if I understand you correctly ?
Also for the passenger side mount did you support the engine under the oil pan similar to the front mount ?Thanks for everyone’s input. I will order the parts and replace these next weekend. OE parts ran about $190. Honda dealer wanted to charge my son $525 to replace these two mounts.
One more question related to removing the passenger side mount. Haynes manual says to support transaxle not the oil pan. The transaxle is on the opposite side (driver side) from the mount. Seems like oil pan would make more sense. Is this a typo in the manual or am I missing something ?
I took a look at the picture you had posted. Not to bad, I was expecting to see a lot of carbon build-up. My Accord looked about the same at 75K miles. But I would clean as mentioned earlier. Check the vertical ports (holes) as Eric mentioned in his post and see if they are clogged, but from the picture they look OK.
Quoted From fitone:
I have a 05 Accord V6 and have done this job in the past. Yes, item #4 is the cover plate for the EGR passages or “ant farm” as Eric mentioned in his post. They are the horizontal passages that you see after removing the cover plate. Usually blocked with carbon, just spray with throttle body cleaner and scrape with a pocket screwdriver as needed. Also clean the vertical ports, you will see what I mean once you remove the cover. Remove also the item # 7 crossover pipe by unbolting #16. Clean the interior of this pipe. When reassembling the cover plate start from the middle of the plate, go in a criss-cross pattern with the reinstall of the cover plate bolts. Do not over tighten bolts.
One other item to check and possibly replace, the pcv valve. It’s located under the front passenger side plastic cover for the plugs. Odd design, inserted into the block and held in place by one 8mm bolt. Costs about $20 at the Honda dealer, not available at the local parts store.
Keep us posted on how this goes and the affect on your gas mileage.
Edit related to the pcv valve, its a 10mm bolt and after you remove the plastic cover the pcv valve is located just below the dipstick. Remove 10mm bolt and remove pcv from engine.
See this link http://www.bernardiparts.com/SearchOptionsV7.aspx?Search=MODEL&ModelID=honda-s2000-parts
He was referring to item #11. You will see the ebrake cable and adjustment nut after removing this assembly.Edit link did not work as expected. Once you are at the screen from this link fill-in the info on your S2000 and then go to Interior/bumper – console- item #11 on this drawing.
I did try to use the online Chilton’s manual link provided on this site. Looked through all the sections that might apply with no luck. I was able to locate a Haynes manual and it looks straight forward as you mentioned. Also provided torque specs. I agree with OE parts in this case, do not want to redo this in future due to inferior parts.
One more question, Haynes manual says to apply non-hardening locktite on the bolts. Is this really needed if you are using a torque wrench on the bolts ?
Thanks for all your input and knowledge that you bring to this forum.
Just checking on my first response to your question about possible CEL at time of misfire issues. No, if CEL light did not occur no need to use a tester. For future reference Auto Zone and Advance Auto will checks codes for free if one of those stores is in your area.
Usually EGR is replaced along the cleaning EGR ports in my experience and definitely would produce a code if it fails.
Perhaps Eric can weight in on this problem.
I have a 05 Accord V6 and have done this job in the past. Yes, item #4 is the cover plate for the EGR passages or “ant farm” as Eric mentioned in his post. They are the horizontal passages that you see after removing the cover plate. Usually blocked with carbon, just spray with throttle body cleaner and scrape with a pocket screwdriver as needed. Also clean the vertical ports, you will see what I mean once you remove the cover. Remove also the item # 7 crossover pipe by unbolting #16. Clean the interior of this pipe. When reassembling the cover plate start from the middle of the plate, go in a criss-cross pattern with the reinstall of the cover plate bolts. Do not over tighten bolts.
One other item to check and possibly replace, the pcv valve. It’s located under the front passenger side plastic cover for the plugs. Odd design, inserted into the block and held in place by one 8mm bolt. Costs about $20 at the Honda dealer, not available at the local parts store.
Keep us posted on how this goes and the affect on your gas mileage.
Granted I do not work on Honda’s full-time but having the upper intake removed and cleaned three times for the mileage of your car seems alot. Did you have the intake drilled and re-sleeved with the larger metal tube ? Just curious, not that this solves your issue.
Automatic control is the type of HVAC system that has a thermostat dial that you can select the desired temperature. After that it would automatically maintain the temperature that you have selected. Manual control is just the typical dial that you need to manually rotate to the heat or cool position.
Just to be sure I understand your question, you input the radio code after reconnecting battery and no sound from any of the sources that you had mentioned ? Correct ?