Forum Replies Created
-
Replies
-
Probably would be a good idea to replace given the mileage and the fact that it has never been replaced. I would advise to replace with a Honda OEM valve if you decide to replace. Honda’s can have issues with aftermarket valves. Also this valve is male threaded into the engine. Not the usual plug-in type as on most cars. The OEM valve appears to cost around $18. See the attached view for location of the valve.
First I have owned two 97 Accord’s. One was my personal car and the other belonged to my late mother which I sold while closing the estate. The one that I had owned is still going strong with 215K miles. It was the LX model with a 4 cylinder and auto trans. Definitely ask about the timing belt service and try to see if the seller has a receipt to prove this has been done. The front brake rotors are a pain to replace as stated above. This generation of Accord has the “captive rotors” which has a rather difficult removal process. Eric has a video that addresses this procedure. Either have a mechanic place the car on a lift or place the car on ramps and take a good look under the car inspecting the suspension carefully. Look at the CV boots for cracks or tears. The $1500 is good place to start for an offer but I would not pay the current asking price. Good luck and keep us posted on your results.
First I have owned two 97 Accord’s. One was my personal car and the other belonged to my late mother which I sold while closing the estate. The one that I had owned is still going strong with 215K miles. It was the LX model with a 4 cylinder and auto trans. Definitely ask about the timing belt service and try to see if the seller has a receipt to prove this has been done. The front brake rotors are a pain to replace as stated above. This generation of Accord has the “captive rotors” which has a rather difficult removal process. Eric has a video that addresses this procedure. Either have a mechanic place the car on a lift or place the car on ramps and take a good look under the car inspecting the suspension carefully. Look at the CV boots for cracks or tears. The $1500 is good place to start for an offer but I would not pay the current asking price. Good luck and keep us posted on your results.
First, I assume that you mean a 2005 Honda CRV and just a typo ? Suggest that you connect a code reader or scanner to the OBD II port to verify the code. But if it’s a p0192 see this link:
http://engine-codes.com/p0192_honda.htmlFirst, I assume that you mean a 2005 Honda CRV and just a typo ? Suggest that you connect a code reader or scanner to the OBD II port to verify the code. But if it’s a p0192 see this link:
http://engine-codes.com/p0192_honda.htmlI know that this post is about a month old so you might already have fixed your problem. I just wanted to add a few things related to the p2138 with Honda’s and Acura’s. That code along with the issues that you had mentioned are definitely related to a faulty accelerator pedal position sensor or app sensor as it is sometimes called. This sensor is prone to fail with high mileage Honda’s and Acura’s with the drive by wire throttle body setup.
The video that college man provided does a decent job of explaining what is involved in the removal/install of this sensor. If you go to either driveaccord.com or accurazine.com some good DIY’s are posted on those sites as well. It’s a fairly easy DIY job if you have basic hand tools and extensions. Hope this info. helps someone !I know that this post is about a month old so you might already have fixed your problem. I just wanted to add a few things related to the p2138 with Honda’s and Acura’s. That code along with the issues that you had mentioned are definitely related to a faulty accelerator pedal position sensor or app sensor as it is sometimes called. This sensor is prone to fail with high mileage Honda’s and Acura’s with the drive by wire throttle body setup.
The video that college man provided does a decent job of explaining what is involved in the removal/install of this sensor. If you go to either driveaccord.com or accurazine.com some good DIY’s are posted on those sites as well. It’s a fairly easy DIY job if you have basic hand tools and extensions. Hope this info. helps someone !You might want to look at the date code on the tires. This is the four digit code on the tires. An example would be 2610, which means the tires were made in the 26th week of 2010. If the tires are greater than ten years old I would have them replaced.
You might want to look at the date code on the tires. This is the four digit code on the tires. An example would be 2610, which means the tires were made in the 26th week of 2010. If the tires are greater than ten years old I would have them replaced.
I have a 02 & 05 Accord EX V6 as well as a 09 Honda Fit. I have had good luck with the Wagner Thermo Quiet pads on all of these vehicles. All of the major auto chains that you had listed carry this brand. Also have used the Advance Auto rotors and calipers with no issues after 50K miles. As was mentioned in the other replies it depends on how long you intend to keep the car as to what you decide to spend. Opinions on brake components can vary greatly, just depends on how you drive the car and budget. If you follow Eric’s videos for the DIY for this job it should turn out good and you will save yourself some money over the quotes that you had mentioned. Keep us posted on the outcome of the brake job.
I have a 02 & 05 Accord EX V6 as well as a 09 Honda Fit. I have had good luck with the Wagner Thermo Quiet pads on all of these vehicles. All of the major auto chains that you had listed carry this brand. Also have used the Advance Auto rotors and calipers with no issues after 50K miles. As was mentioned in the other replies it depends on how long you intend to keep the car as to what you decide to spend. Opinions on brake components can vary greatly, just depends on how you drive the car and budget. If you follow Eric’s videos for the DIY for this job it should turn out good and you will save yourself some money over the quotes that you had mentioned. Keep us posted on the outcome of the brake job.
If you really want to do a complete cleaning of the EGR passages see this link.
http://www.civicforums.com/forums/36-mechanical-problems-vehicle-issues-fix-forum/343687-how-clean-egr-ports-passages.htmlIf you really want to do a complete cleaning of the EGR passages see this link.
http://www.civicforums.com/forums/36-mechanical-problems-vehicle-issues-fix-forum/343687-how-clean-egr-ports-passages.htmlI was taking another look at my door lock actuator problem today. When I try to unlock the car from the inside using the driver front left and if all the locks don’t unlock. I then use the right passenger lock manually and then go back to the driver side lock all of the locks then unlock. Also I am hearing a whining noise from what sounds like the right front door area. I found a right front actuator on Ebay from $43 shipping was included, brand was not noted. The same Dorman lock is $110, can’t figure why it’s $50 more that the driver side. How do I test the lock to be sure that I am not just throwing away $43 ? Selling the car soon FYI, also only has 60,000 miles !
