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Quoted From moparfan:
idk of a real way to do it for sure other then put it back to stock or go buy your self a stock engine to drop in it everytime you need to pass the test. other wise i can’t help ya my friend. this is the very reason i stick to the states without emission tests haha i don’t have any vehicle that would pass!
Those darn environmentalists! Hehe..
I live in Norway and over here they just put the sniffer into the pipe at idle, no dyno run and TEC2 hookup at the same time, so I guess it’s somewhat more of a hassle over there in some of the states.However, there should be ways to overcome this problem without having to change the engine every time I have to get this test!
A friend of mine has a 300zx with 850cc injectors! And he managed to pass! How difficult could it be? 😉
BTW:
I just spoke to a friend of mine who works at a honda dealer. I’m going there tomorow to hook up the emission testing equipment, and hopefuly I will manage to tune the engine somewhat in the right direction.
Do anyone have any suggestions to making it burn cleaner? I guess BTDC ignition should be about 10 degrees on this 3S-GTE engine. Is there any gains from lowering/increasing ignition ? I’m going to lean out the mixture drastically to try to get it under the limit. Also resetting the cams to stock (0) should help. Right now the exhaust cam is retarded about 7 degrees, and the intake cam is advaned about 4 degrees.
This engine performed about 420 hp on a dyno last time I checked. I’d hate to spend severel weeks putting it back to stock.. Then back to the way it was again. I’d rather bribe the whole staff to just let it get trough then! Just the very thought of the amount of work needed makes me sick..
Gonna try to lean it out so much it reads about 14,7 – 15 AFR. That should help. And perhaps get some E85 on the tank if that won’t help.. This should turn out to be a rather interesting experiment, seeing if the E85 makes any difference. 🙂
I have a high flow catalytic converter on it now. Would adding a second converter closer to the exhaust manifold make much difference?
It’s been sorted. I went and bought a new camsensor today. But before I installed it I took a look under the engine. Then I realised that one of the bolts holding the starter motor in place was a bit loose. Motor was still in place and I could not move it in any way. Still, I tightened it down and tried to start the engine and voila. Engine started right away, and CEL was gone too. Kind of weird, but as long as it works I’m happy. 🙂
Good thing I didn”t open the package with the new sensor. Now I can return it and get a refund. 🙂
Quoted From 619DioFan:
Is this car same as an opel omega ? this sounds like a coil problem. does the car have one coil pack for all cylinders or a seperate coil for each ? can you pull any codes ? I would check the power leads going to the coil (s) and check the coil(s) resistance.
Yes, it’s an Opel Omega / wauxhall Omega. It gives me code 0335 which is crank sensor. However, I’m not sure I can trust the Codes as it might give that code anyways when the engine is not running. And I’m unable to read the codes when the engine is running. (using the paperclip method). I really don’t think it’s a coil problem. Because as I said, once the engine is started it runs perfectly with no miss. I’ve had to replace coil packs on other cars and the sympthoms are always the same: stuttering and shaking of the engine, backfiring, loss of power and not running on all cylinders. Mine does none of that. it runs perfectly once started. It has full power, No missfiring once started. it’s just when starting it has this problem. : That’s why it’s so hard to diagnose.
Perhaps I’ll just have to try and replace the crank sensor. It’s a $150 part ( I live in Norway). So I’ll just have to pray it’s that. I haven’t found a scope to test it with, and a garage will charge me the same amount that a new sensor cost just to test the one I have so I might as well try a new one then.
I’m still puzzled by the relation between cam and crank sensor though. Do they work in harmony or do they perform different tasks? F.eks crank sensor for starting and cam sensor for running? that would explain this problem though. But I find that a bit strange…?
Quoted From dreamer2355:
The best way of testing crank and cam sensors is to use a lab scope.
Is the CEL light on?
Also, if the vehicle dies, you are obviously missing spark or fuel so the next time it dies, see which one is not present.
This video from Eric will give you a starting point.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FBUYs539 … t3EVppbf88
Watched the Video. However, There’s nothing mechanically wrong with it since it’s running perfectly once started. It’s getting fuel and spark, just not when trying to start. That’s what so puzzling. Why will it run, but not randomly miss when trying to start?
The CEL is on. We tried to test when trying to start, and figured out that it’s not giving spark to any cylinder during start. 10 secounds may go by and it only gives a few sparks to any random cylinder. Then suddenly it gives lots of spark, allthough not in the correct order, since it’s missfiring badly. We used a “test-lamp” between the sparkplugwire and the plug in order to confirm the absense of spark. Eventually, after cranking long enough it will finally start. But it’s very hard!
It seems it’s the same thing that happens when it suddenly dies. During Idle, when RPM get’s low, it stops giving spark.
I don’t have a lab scope : I’ll have to see if I can find one to borrow.
But I keep wondering: Is there any logic to why the crank sensor wouldn’t function at low rpm? If so that could explain this. Still, I find it weird. Should think it would get more inaccurate with higher RPMs instead..