[firewalk]

Now I’ve disconnected the instrument cluster completely.
I’ve taken off the steering wheel and the airbag and disconnected the horn manually.
I even phulled the 7,5a fuse for the turn lights. And still no change!

I’ve checked everything that can be checked. I’ve gone trough everything that is in that circuit according the the wiring diagram. And the drain remains the same.
I just don’t get it. I’m about to give up.
The whole damn thing is just weird!

I disconnected the negative terminal to the battery and used my second multimeter to measure voltage. Seems the drain is about 0,36 volts, and about 50-80 miliamps (it’s fluctuating a bit)

I’ve phulled every relay in the circuit and I’ve disconnected everything thats hooked up and could drain power. No change.

At this point i’m considering just wiring in a relay so that I can have an operative horn and hazzard lights when the ignition is on, and eventually wiring in a switch so that I can enable it and use the hazzard lights with the ignition off if I must.

I guess that’s the second best thing at this point, as I really can’t find the fault 🙁

I’ve teared down the entire inside of the car and Nothing….

Measuring volgate drain:

Attachments:

• voltage.jpg

[firewalk]

Now I’ve disconnected the instrument cluster completely.
I’ve taken off the steering wheel and the airbag and disconnected the horn manually.
I even phulled the 7,5a fuse for the turn lights. And still no change!

I’ve checked everything that can be checked. I’ve gone trough everything that is in that circuit according the the wiring diagram. And the drain remains the same.
I just don’t get it. I’m about to give up.
The whole damn thing is just weird!

I disconnected the negative terminal to the battery and used my second multimeter to measure voltage. Seems the drain is about 0,36 volts, and about 50-80 miliamps (it’s fluctuating a bit)

I’ve phulled every relay in the circuit and I’ve disconnected everything thats hooked up and could drain power. No change.

At this point i’m considering just wiring in a relay so that I can have an operative horn and hazzard lights when the ignition is on, and eventually wiring in a switch so that I can enable it and use the hazzard lights with the ignition off if I must.

I guess that’s the second best thing at this point, as I really can’t find the fault 🙁

I’ve teared down the entire inside of the car and Nothing….

Measuring volgate drain:

Attachments:

• voltage.jpg

[firewalk]

I tracked town the problem with the DOME sircuit. Turned out to be a factory amp for the original sound system beeing on standby. So I removed the amp and I’m now left with just the power drain on the HAZ – HORN sircuit, drawing a total of 60-80 miliamps.
I’m NOT good at reading wiring diagrams. I’ve studied it as best I could. From what I can figure out that fuse only has to do with the hazzard lights/turn lights and the horn. There seems to be conections going from the Alarm ECU to the horn, and from the turn light switch as well. But the turn lights has its own 7,5a fuse in the cupe, so I didn’t quite understand how that’s hooked up exactly.

From reading the diagram, this is what I’ve been able to come up with beeing in that circuit:

horn switch(dur)
both front turn signals
hazard switch(obviously)
both rear turn signals
theft Deterrent horn
turn signal flasher
theft ecu
horn relay

I’ve disconnected all the above exept the turn signal switch itself as I ran out of time this evening and It is a big job geting to it. However, the turn signals work just fine even with the HAZ – HORN fuse removed. Since they are still working, and the drain is gone with the HAZ – HORN fuse removed, should that not dismiss the switch as a potential source? Again, I see the turn lights has it’s own 7,5 amp fuse. I’m unsure how this is all hooked up.. removing the 7,5 amp fuse makes no differense on the drain.

Is there anything I am missing?

I’m posting the electrical diagram for the fuse/sircuit in question:

Edit:
After looking at the diagrams for quite some time it’s clear to me that the power also goes trough the turn light/hazz lights indicator lights in the gauge cluster in the dash. So I guess I’ll need to take out that entire thing and disconnect everything to see if there is a problem there as well?

Attachments:

• Electrical001.jpg
• Electrical002.jpg

[firewalk]

I tracked town the problem with the DOME sircuit. Turned out to be a factory amp for the original sound system beeing on standby. So I removed the amp and I’m now left with just the power drain on the HAZ – HORN sircuit, drawing a total of 60-80 miliamps.
I’m NOT good at reading wiring diagrams. I’ve studied it as best I could. From what I can figure out that fuse only has to do with the hazzard lights/turn lights and the horn. There seems to be conections going from the Alarm ECU to the horn, and from the turn light switch as well. But the turn lights has its own 7,5a fuse in the cupe, so I didn’t quite understand how that’s hooked up exactly.

From reading the diagram, this is what I’ve been able to come up with beeing in that circuit:

horn switch(dur)
both front turn signals
hazard switch(obviously)
both rear turn signals
theft Deterrent horn
turn signal flasher
theft ecu
horn relay

I’ve disconnected all the above exept the turn signal switch itself as I ran out of time this evening and It is a big job geting to it. However, the turn signals work just fine even with the HAZ – HORN fuse removed. Since they are still working, and the drain is gone with the HAZ – HORN fuse removed, should that not dismiss the switch as a potential source? Again, I see the turn lights has it’s own 7,5 amp fuse. I’m unsure how this is all hooked up.. removing the 7,5 amp fuse makes no differense on the drain.

Is there anything I am missing?

I’m posting the electrical diagram for the fuse/sircuit in question:

Edit:
After looking at the diagrams for quite some time it’s clear to me that the power also goes trough the turn light/hazz lights indicator lights in the gauge cluster in the dash. So I guess I’ll need to take out that entire thing and disconnect everything to see if there is a problem there as well?

Attachments:

• Electrical001.jpg
• Electrical002.jpg

[firewalk]

can i use a clamp amperemeter to measure wires or are theese currents to small to read with a clamp amperemeter?

[firewalk]

can i use a clamp amperemeter to measure wires or are theese currents to small to read with a clamp amperemeter?

[firewalk]

It is not armed. But i could try unpluging the alarm computer totally just to make sure. The car wont start with it pluged out so i cant leave it that way. what about the simular drain on the other circuit? should i be looking for a short? and if so, is there a way to narrow it down? Weird that they draw exactly the same amount of power..

[firewalk]

It is not armed. But i could try unpluging the alarm computer totally just to make sure. The car wont start with it pluged out so i cant leave it that way. what about the simular drain on the other circuit? should i be looking for a short? and if so, is there a way to narrow it down? Weird that they draw exactly the same amount of power..

[firewalk]

I phulled all the fuses. Eventually I figured out that DOME and HAZ HORN was causing the drain. I then installed all fuses again, exept the DOME and HAZ horn. When doing this my multimeter showed a constant draw of about 10 miliamps (0,010 amps) which is well bellow the 50 miliamp limit. I assume this 10 miliamp drain is due to clock, computer memmory etc.

What I did next, now that I know that the drain was gone, was to reconnect the negative battery cable and use my multimeter to measure trough the pins in each of the fuses in question, DOME and HAZ HORN.

I started with the DOME circuit. With the multimeter hooked up, Power will flow trough the multimeter, just as if the fuse were still in place. But I can now measure hoe much juice is actually going trough in real time.

I then started to disconnect stuff. Like the dome light itself, the doorloom connectors etc. But as I said, Nothing made a difference.

I repeated this process witht he HAZ HORN fuse, and I couldn’t find any problems there either..

Example:
If you have a battery, with wires going to a glowing bulb. That will draw power for sure. But if you remove the bulb, no power should be drawn right?..

That’s my logic in this. But I’ve removed everything I can think of, and still the drain is just the same.

Could there be some sort of short somewhere causing this tiny drain? I find it kind of weird that I have two seperate drains on two seperate circuits/fuses and they both reads nearly exactly the same! 80 miliamps.
I would think that a short, even a tiny one would produse way more drain than that. But then again my experience with electrics is limited.

For now I’ve just removed theese two fuses. That stoped the drain. However, I have no Horn, no power locks, No alarm and no lights inside the car..

I have no Idea where or how to search for this drain ghost.. ??

[firewalk]

I phulled all the fuses. Eventually I figured out that DOME and HAZ HORN was causing the drain. I then installed all fuses again, exept the DOME and HAZ horn. When doing this my multimeter showed a constant draw of about 10 miliamps (0,010 amps) which is well bellow the 50 miliamp limit. I assume this 10 miliamp drain is due to clock, computer memmory etc.

What I did next, now that I know that the drain was gone, was to reconnect the negative battery cable and use my multimeter to measure trough the pins in each of the fuses in question, DOME and HAZ HORN.

I started with the DOME circuit. With the multimeter hooked up, Power will flow trough the multimeter, just as if the fuse were still in place. But I can now measure hoe much juice is actually going trough in real time.

I then started to disconnect stuff. Like the dome light itself, the doorloom connectors etc. But as I said, Nothing made a difference.

I repeated this process witht he HAZ HORN fuse, and I couldn’t find any problems there either..

Example:
If you have a battery, with wires going to a glowing bulb. That will draw power for sure. But if you remove the bulb, no power should be drawn right?..

That’s my logic in this. But I’ve removed everything I can think of, and still the drain is just the same.

Could there be some sort of short somewhere causing this tiny drain? I find it kind of weird that I have two seperate drains on two seperate circuits/fuses and they both reads nearly exactly the same! 80 miliamps.
I would think that a short, even a tiny one would produse way more drain than that. But then again my experience with electrics is limited.

For now I’ve just removed theese two fuses. That stoped the drain. However, I have no Horn, no power locks, No alarm and no lights inside the car..

I have no Idea where or how to search for this drain ghost.. ??

[firewalk]

Thanks guys, great videoes! Watched them all.

It’s an MR2 MK2 3S-GTE.

I’ve been able to rule out the alternator. It’s fine, I replaced it a few months ago due to defective voltage regulator.

Doing the amperage test, I’ve been able to fix everything EXEPT two sircuits which I can’t for the love of GOD figure out how to fix.

The two fuses in question is:

1. DOME
2. HAZ – Horn

Nr1 involves, as the name suggest: the dome light, light in the doors and power locks.

nr2 involves the Horn and the hazzard lights.

So what did I do?

Well, I teared down half the interiour and the dash, and unpluged all the conectors going to the doors, I took down the dome light and removed the connector going to that. Made sure nothing was pluged in and nothing worked.

Still, the amperage draw remains exactly the same! No change…

Seems theese two fuses dras about 160 miliamps together. About 80 miliamps each.

How should I procead? I’m stuck..

[firewalk]

Thanks guys, great videoes! Watched them all.

It’s an MR2 MK2 3S-GTE.

I’ve been able to rule out the alternator. It’s fine, I replaced it a few months ago due to defective voltage regulator.

Doing the amperage test, I’ve been able to fix everything EXEPT two sircuits which I can’t for the love of GOD figure out how to fix.

The two fuses in question is:

1. DOME
2. HAZ – Horn

Nr1 involves, as the name suggest: the dome light, light in the doors and power locks.

nr2 involves the Horn and the hazzard lights.

So what did I do?

Well, I teared down half the interiour and the dash, and unpluged all the conectors going to the doors, I took down the dome light and removed the connector going to that. Made sure nothing was pluged in and nothing worked.

Still, the amperage draw remains exactly the same! No change…

Seems theese two fuses dras about 160 miliamps together. About 80 miliamps each.

How should I procead? I’m stuck..

[firewalk]

Quoted From EricTheCarGuy:

I was going to suggest that probably the only thing you could do is to change the fuel map but adjusting the cam timing in addition to that is brilliant, I think the only problem you might run into is your idle speed, see if you can get it below 1000rpm and I think you’re in the clear because those numbers are looking VERY good IF they are going to do a tailpipe emissions test, if they do an emissions monitor test your modded computer may show up and blow the test but if your MR2 is pre 1996 I don’t think it will be an issue because I believe they would do a tailpipe test for vehicles older than 96. Keep us posted on how it turns out.

I set the idle speed to 1000 rpm And retarded the timing a bit to make it sound less modified. It passed the emissions test. This time it was 0,01% CO. They didn’t really belleive it so they actually had to test it twise to be sure.

But they said it’s too loud. I have a TKO exhaust from KO racing. 2,5″. I have the 7″ silencers which are supposed to be the most quiet available for this exhaust system.

How can I lower the noise? I’ve red about “plug” silencers that you fasten in the tailpipe itself. And they are supposed to make it quieter. Do theese really work?
I’d rather not have to change the entire exhaust. It wasn’t much to loud, just a tiny bit.. So whatever I can do to make it quieter.. Any thoughts?

I found this on ebay, would such a thing actually work? : http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi … vi-content

[firewalk]

The steroids thing made me think. Why not just starve it of steroids? So i went to a friend of mine who works at a Honda dealer (how about that?). They have a testing mashine.

Here’s what I did:

1. I have adjustable cam gears. Exhaust cam was retarded 9 degrees. Intake cam was advanced 4 degrees, thus creating lots of overlap. I placed both cams in the 0 position (stright up). By doing this I have eliminated as much overlap as I can.

2. I added 5 liters of ethanol to the tank (had about 20 liters of gas in it)

3. Hooked up the emission testing-mashine and started to adjust the ignition and fuel tables. I realise that owners with stock car’s won’t be able to do this in this maner, but manipulating fuel and ignition should still be possible to some degree though.

So what I ended up with was a BTDC Ignition of 10 degrees at Idle speed of 1050 RPM. I leaned out the fuel mixture by lowering the injectors pulsewidth to about 0,98 MS (I have 720cc Injectors).

This gave me a Air Fuel ratio that jumped up and down somewhat between 15 and 17,8 (quite lean) but according to the mashine I should pass the test with theese settings!
AFR;

Mashine readout:

[firewalk]

Quoted From college man:

incomplete combustion. start by cutting your fuel
curve back. you need to lean the car out. you may
need to adjust timing. actually I don’t think a lower
grade fuel will help you here. probably will make things
worse.

I’ve tried to lean it out, but the engine will barely run. I guess it’s partly because I have 720cc injectors, and at low idle they have a very low duty cycle making idle rough. The less fuel at idle the rougher the idle becomes. That, combined with the overlaping 264 cams makes things quite difficult :
I had hoped that since E85 needs about 30% more fuel I could somehow overcome the duty cycle problem and at the same time perhaps score some since alcohol burns cleaner than gasoline?

Anyone know if it is even possible to pass with a HKS 264 cam? (on a MR2 mk2 Turbo)

[Author]

Replies