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Thank you all for your help! I must say I’m overvelmed by everyones willingness to help and even look up parts and stuff. Not every forum is this friendly! So Thanks again! Much apriciated!
That said, I was in the garage trying some more today. I got out most of the metal and tried to re-tread the hole. Seems like the threads are ok, but when I insert the bolt it seems a bit looser then when installed in the 3 others. I can tighten the bolt and it do hold enough force, but again, it seems much easier to screw in by hand than the others so I’m conserned that perhaps there might be a weakness and that’s not good.
At this point I’m wondering if it’s possible to install a helicoil or something in that one hole that had the stuck bolt and repair it that way? Or is such procedure not reccomended in this case? I’m just asking because I’ve seen helicoils used on heavy machinery, hydraulics etc dealing with loads that far outweights anything the wheel hub will ever see.
The scrapyard suggestion is a good alternative. I have sent a few mails, so hopefully someone has something I can use.
Regarding those ebay auctions, I actually looked at the same ones earlier today 🙂 But I’m not sure if it will fit this car. It’s a 1,4 Renault megane, and it was produced from 2003 to 2006. But theese actions are for 1.6 – 1.9 and the auctions says UP to 03. So I guess that means it must be the model before thisone.
Thank you all for your help! I must say I’m overvelmed by everyones willingness to help and even look up parts and stuff. Not every forum is this friendly! So Thanks again! Much apriciated!
That said, I was in the garage trying some more today. I got out most of the metal and tried to re-tread the hole. Seems like the threads are ok, but when I insert the bolt it seems a bit looser then when installed in the 3 others. I can tighten the bolt and it do hold enough force, but again, it seems much easier to screw in by hand than the others so I’m conserned that perhaps there might be a weakness and that’s not good.
At this point I’m wondering if it’s possible to install a helicoil or something in that one hole that had the stuck bolt and repair it that way? Or is such procedure not reccomended in this case? I’m just asking because I’ve seen helicoils used on heavy machinery, hydraulics etc dealing with loads that far outweights anything the wheel hub will ever see.
The scrapyard suggestion is a good alternative. I have sent a few mails, so hopefully someone has something I can use.
Regarding those ebay auctions, I actually looked at the same ones earlier today 🙂 But I’m not sure if it will fit this car. It’s a 1,4 Renault megane, and it was produced from 2003 to 2006. But theese actions are for 1.6 – 1.9 and the auctions says UP to 03. So I guess that means it must be the model before thisone.
I still haven’t been able to pinpoint the source.
I feel I’ve spent way to much time on this allready and I guess I could search for days or even weeks and still not figure it out. At least I got the drain down from 160 miliamps to about 80 miliamps.
I’m just going to rewire the circuit so that it get ignition power instead of continuous power, using a relay and install a bypass switch just in case I need the hazzard lights with ignition off.Good thing though, I figured out the oil pressure lamp problem. The combinationmeter / gauge cluster had a faulty leed on the circuitboard, causing switched +12v not geting to several bulbs. Fixed that, so now at least that works. 🙂
And I took advantage of the oportunity to better sound-insulate the interiour of the car since I had all the carpets and such out anyways. Should be a more plesant ride from now on. 🙂
So at least something good came of all this. 🙂I still haven’t been able to pinpoint the source.
I feel I’ve spent way to much time on this allready and I guess I could search for days or even weeks and still not figure it out. At least I got the drain down from 160 miliamps to about 80 miliamps.
I’m just going to rewire the circuit so that it get ignition power instead of continuous power, using a relay and install a bypass switch just in case I need the hazzard lights with ignition off.Good thing though, I figured out the oil pressure lamp problem. The combinationmeter / gauge cluster had a faulty leed on the circuitboard, causing switched +12v not geting to several bulbs. Fixed that, so now at least that works. 🙂
And I took advantage of the oportunity to better sound-insulate the interiour of the car since I had all the carpets and such out anyways. Should be a more plesant ride from now on. 🙂
So at least something good came of all this. 🙂The drain seems to be connected to a stock blue positive cable going back. I’ve disconnected all aftermarked stuff and the drain continued still. There’s nothing hooked aftermarked hooked up to that circuit.
Right now I’m attempting to figure out why the oil pressure indicator (the oil lamp symbol) in the combinationmeter has stoped working…. Tested several bulbs and even another combinationmeter but nothing. Must be someting I’ve done now since it worked before I started. Typical that when trying to fix one thing you manage to destroy several others in the process.. :p
I know I have oil pressure because I have a secondary gauge showing the pressure digitaly in PSI and the senders are at the same place, so clarely I’ve managed to do something to a wire or two..This whole thing is turning into a can of worms.:sick:
The drain seems to be connected to a stock blue positive cable going back. I’ve disconnected all aftermarked stuff and the drain continued still. There’s nothing hooked aftermarked hooked up to that circuit.
Right now I’m attempting to figure out why the oil pressure indicator (the oil lamp symbol) in the combinationmeter has stoped working…. Tested several bulbs and even another combinationmeter but nothing. Must be someting I’ve done now since it worked before I started. Typical that when trying to fix one thing you manage to destroy several others in the process.. :p
I know I have oil pressure because I have a secondary gauge showing the pressure digitaly in PSI and the senders are at the same place, so clarely I’ve managed to do something to a wire or two..This whole thing is turning into a can of worms.:sick:
ok, ill check after work today. the keyless entry works. but it has been dissconnected so i know its not the source. it drained almost nothing. well within lomits. less than 10 mililamps or 0.01 amps.
ok, ill check after work today. the keyless entry works. but it has been dissconnected so i know its not the source. it drained almost nothing. well within lomits. less than 10 mililamps or 0.01 amps.
No, taking out the horn relay don’t make it go away. The connector going to the hazzard lights has been discconnected, along with the theft deterent ecu etc. But the drain is still there. 🙁
I would think disconnecting the connector to the hazzzard switch would make it a “dead end” so that power wouldn’t have anywhere to go? I’ll see if I can come up with a way to measure voltages/amps? at that connector going to the hazzard switch.
No, taking out the horn relay don’t make it go away. The connector going to the hazzard lights has been discconnected, along with the theft deterent ecu etc. But the drain is still there. 🙁
I would think disconnecting the connector to the hazzzard switch would make it a “dead end” so that power wouldn’t have anywhere to go? I’ll see if I can come up with a way to measure voltages/amps? at that connector going to the hazzard switch.
[quote=”college man” post=33021]first you need to be in series with the negative.
lets back up. if you hook up the meter in series
with the negative side.and pull the two suspected
fuses(horn and hazards) one at a time.the draw is still there?[/quote]If I hook up the multimeter (measuring amps) between the negative battery terminal and negative cable I measure a drain of about 80 miliamps. If I phull the HAZ – HORN fuse the drain goes down to about 0. It will pulsate slightly between 0 and 10 miliamps.
After doing this I knew that the drain was confined to the HAZ – HORN circuit. So I inserted the multimeter in the terminals of the fuse instead, and measured exactly the same there, 70-80 miliamps going trough.
Now I’ve disconnected everything in that circuit acording to the wiring diagram. Every relay, The steering wheel, airbag, The horn itself, the turn lights, the turn light fuse, removed the combination meter, the theft deterent ecu…. every single thing listed on the diagram! And still the drain remains the same within that sircuit.
I even took out the seats, carpets and most of the dash to see if there was something aftermarked wired into that circuit, but I couldn’t find anything.
I have basically dismantled the entire interior of the car, spending 4 days doing so and still I’m no closer to an anwser!
My only comfort is that I managed to eliminate the drain on the DOME fuse. That took me about a days work. But The drain on the HAZ – HORN circuit still illudes me 🙁 And I can’t think of anything else to do, as I’ve tried everything! Following the diagram and disconnecting everything. That drain shouldn’t be there!
[quote=”college man” post=33021]first you need to be in series with the negative.
lets back up. if you hook up the meter in series
with the negative side.and pull the two suspected
fuses(horn and hazards) one at a time.the draw is still there?[/quote]If I hook up the multimeter (measuring amps) between the negative battery terminal and negative cable I measure a drain of about 80 miliamps. If I phull the HAZ – HORN fuse the drain goes down to about 0. It will pulsate slightly between 0 and 10 miliamps.
After doing this I knew that the drain was confined to the HAZ – HORN circuit. So I inserted the multimeter in the terminals of the fuse instead, and measured exactly the same there, 70-80 miliamps going trough.
Now I’ve disconnected everything in that circuit acording to the wiring diagram. Every relay, The steering wheel, airbag, The horn itself, the turn lights, the turn light fuse, removed the combination meter, the theft deterent ecu…. every single thing listed on the diagram! And still the drain remains the same within that sircuit.
I even took out the seats, carpets and most of the dash to see if there was something aftermarked wired into that circuit, but I couldn’t find anything.
I have basically dismantled the entire interior of the car, spending 4 days doing so and still I’m no closer to an anwser!
My only comfort is that I managed to eliminate the drain on the DOME fuse. That took me about a days work. But The drain on the HAZ – HORN circuit still illudes me 🙁 And I can’t think of anything else to do, as I’ve tried everything! Following the diagram and disconnecting everything. That drain shouldn’t be there!
[quote=”twiggy02919″ post=33017]Forget about the .36V measurement. Stick with measuring the current drain. There a couple of reasons you could be measuring that voltage that are not due to any issues.
You said you traced the leakage to the haz-horn fuse. Have you tried reconnecting the battery and then putting your ammeter accross the socket for the haz-horn fuse (with the fuse pulled). This will be a good double check to see if that stray current is in fact going down that path and not simply a different circuit responding to that fuse being pulled.
But honestly, I am not convinced that the leakage is responsible for your battery failures. I know you said you changed the alternator but there more to the charging system than the alternator. You really should measure battery voltage with your car running to make sure there’s enough voltage, over 13v, right at the terminals of the battery.[/quote]
Actually, that’s what I’ve been doing while searching for the drain. I eliminated the drain on the DOME fuse. After that, I knew that the drain was confined to the HAZ – HORN fuse, so I reconnected the battery and used the multimeter to measure amperage between the terminals in the fuse. I let it sit there and placed the multimeter on the windshield so that I could monitor the current while I searched for the fault. But it always stayed the same no matter what I did. Even after disconnecting everything.
I’ve started the car and used the multimeter in AC mode to see if there was any alternating current in the system, but there was none. So the diodes in the alternator seems to be OK.
The Charging voltage at idle was 14,2 volts.I’ve had to replace 4 new batteries as they got drained down to nothing when the car was sitting for about a week not beeing used. And after a few times of that happening they never recovered.
Typically I would meassure the voltage to about 12,9 on the battery after driving for a while. The next day I would measure again and it would be drained down to 11,8v. A day more and it would be 10, and a few days more it would be completely empty. That’s why I installed the prioritystart battery protector.
Now I’ve found the source of the drain, so I removed the fuse and left the battery fully charged over night, and measured again, and the battery was still nearly full.
[quote=”twiggy02919″ post=33017]Forget about the .36V measurement. Stick with measuring the current drain. There a couple of reasons you could be measuring that voltage that are not due to any issues.
You said you traced the leakage to the haz-horn fuse. Have you tried reconnecting the battery and then putting your ammeter accross the socket for the haz-horn fuse (with the fuse pulled). This will be a good double check to see if that stray current is in fact going down that path and not simply a different circuit responding to that fuse being pulled.
But honestly, I am not convinced that the leakage is responsible for your battery failures. I know you said you changed the alternator but there more to the charging system than the alternator. You really should measure battery voltage with your car running to make sure there’s enough voltage, over 13v, right at the terminals of the battery.[/quote]
Actually, that’s what I’ve been doing while searching for the drain. I eliminated the drain on the DOME fuse. After that, I knew that the drain was confined to the HAZ – HORN fuse, so I reconnected the battery and used the multimeter to measure amperage between the terminals in the fuse. I let it sit there and placed the multimeter on the windshield so that I could monitor the current while I searched for the fault. But it always stayed the same no matter what I did. Even after disconnecting everything.
I’ve started the car and used the multimeter in AC mode to see if there was any alternating current in the system, but there was none. So the diodes in the alternator seems to be OK.
The Charging voltage at idle was 14,2 volts.I’ve had to replace 4 new batteries as they got drained down to nothing when the car was sitting for about a week not beeing used. And after a few times of that happening they never recovered.
Typically I would meassure the voltage to about 12,9 on the battery after driving for a while. The next day I would measure again and it would be drained down to 11,8v. A day more and it would be 10, and a few days more it would be completely empty. That’s why I installed the prioritystart battery protector.
Now I’ve found the source of the drain, so I removed the fuse and left the battery fully charged over night, and measured again, and the battery was still nearly full.