[firewalk]

I’m the only one driving and working on the car. It’s so weird, the last time I used it it was fine. It sat for 6 weeks and when I went to fire it up this suddenly happened. It’s a turbocharged car, I always thought the boost would kill it, not idling it.. :woohoo:

The results don’t point twards a head gasket issue, I agree. The coolant contaminated oil however does. I guess it could be caused by an internal leak inside the oil cooler, contaminating the oil, but this would not cause wet spark plugs or coolant burning causing white, sweet smelling exhaust from the tail pipe ?

[firewalk]

I’m the only one driving and working on the car. It’s so weird, the last time I used it it was fine. It sat for 6 weeks and when I went to fire it up this suddenly happened. It’s a turbocharged car, I always thought the boost would kill it, not idling it.. :woohoo:

The results don’t point twards a head gasket issue, I agree. The coolant contaminated oil however does. I guess it could be caused by an internal leak inside the oil cooler, contaminating the oil, but this would not cause wet spark plugs or coolant burning causing white, sweet smelling exhaust from the tail pipe ?

[firewalk]

Attaching a few pictures:

The oil that came out to the right. Normal used oil to the left.

Spark plugs geting wet ater idling:

Spark plugs again:

Picture of piston, lookig down trough the spark plug well. It’s Wet, as you can see.

Attachments:

• 1.jpg
• 2.jpg
• 3.jpg
• 4.jpg

[firewalk]

Attaching a few pictures:

The oil that came out to the right. Normal used oil to the left.

Spark plugs geting wet ater idling:

Spark plugs again:

Picture of piston, lookig down trough the spark plug well. It’s Wet, as you can see.

Attachments:

• 1.jpg
• 2.jpg
• 3.jpg
• 4.jpg

[firewalk]

It’s a 1993 Toyota MR2 Turbo. (3S-GTE Engine) 🙂

[firewalk]

It’s a 1993 Toyota MR2 Turbo. (3S-GTE Engine) 🙂

[firewalk]

Eric:

I was looking to understand how the wastegate actuator works on theese cars, compared to ordinary petrol cars where there is a spring loaded wastegate that opens at a given pressure (this is a tdi). On this car it seems to be the other way arround, the way I have understood it then the spring keeps the wastegate / variable wanes closed and when vacuum is aplied trough the n95 valve (solenoid) it opens. So it opens on vacuum and not by positive pressure.

There is a vacuum reservior, and I think there is a vacuum pump as well somewhere, but I havent found it yet.

But if there is a vacuum pump that operates this system, then theese methods won’t work since the air isn’t ending up in the engine right? So how can I troubleshoot it then?

[firewalk]

Eric:

I was looking to understand how the wastegate actuator works on theese cars, compared to ordinary petrol cars where there is a spring loaded wastegate that opens at a given pressure (this is a tdi). On this car it seems to be the other way arround, the way I have understood it then the spring keeps the wastegate / variable wanes closed and when vacuum is aplied trough the n95 valve (solenoid) it opens. So it opens on vacuum and not by positive pressure.

There is a vacuum reservior, and I think there is a vacuum pump as well somewhere, but I havent found it yet.

But if there is a vacuum pump that operates this system, then theese methods won’t work since the air isn’t ending up in the engine right? So how can I troubleshoot it then?

[firewalk]

Thanks again!

I’ve been reding and reading. This is heavy stuff. Seems there is allot of stuff that can cause this, and allot of possible causes. I feel like I’m studdying for an exam, there’s just so much to get into and understand in order to properly diagnose this issue.

Anyways, After reading for hours, I think in my case the most likely scanario is a vacuum leak, causing the actuator rod to move to slow, causing the ecu to trigger limp mode. I’ve watched videos of the actuator moving, and allthough mine has perfect travel, it do seem to move a little slower than the ones I’ve seen on youtube.

I have ordered a vacuum tester from ebay, I see the rod should move to the fully extended position at 18 hg, but that 25 hg is what’s “normal” for the engine to produce.

I will attach my test instrument in between the line to the actuator itself, to confirm that the vacuum is as it should.

If it’s not, I foundn this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9CPqbaSgcok

But all my vacuum lines are covered with some plastic wrapping, so I don’t think this technique will work on this car. Any other way to find a potential leaks?

I was thinking of hooking up my air compressor, aplying pressure and listening for leaks with the engine off, but several one way valves would probably make that difficult. unless I check at many different locations. `?

[firewalk]

Thanks again!

I’ve been reding and reading. This is heavy stuff. Seems there is allot of stuff that can cause this, and allot of possible causes. I feel like I’m studdying for an exam, there’s just so much to get into and understand in order to properly diagnose this issue.

Anyways, After reading for hours, I think in my case the most likely scanario is a vacuum leak, causing the actuator rod to move to slow, causing the ecu to trigger limp mode. I’ve watched videos of the actuator moving, and allthough mine has perfect travel, it do seem to move a little slower than the ones I’ve seen on youtube.

I have ordered a vacuum tester from ebay, I see the rod should move to the fully extended position at 18 hg, but that 25 hg is what’s “normal” for the engine to produce.

I will attach my test instrument in between the line to the actuator itself, to confirm that the vacuum is as it should.

If it’s not, I foundn this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9CPqbaSgcok

But all my vacuum lines are covered with some plastic wrapping, so I don’t think this technique will work on this car. Any other way to find a potential leaks?

I was thinking of hooking up my air compressor, aplying pressure and listening for leaks with the engine off, but several one way valves would probably make that difficult. unless I check at many different locations. `?

[firewalk]

I did what the video told me. But I imediately noticed that in my case the rod is able to move all the way, there is no sticking in my case. I still used a long screwdriver pushing it up just to be sure, but when I enabled and disabled vacuum to the actuator it moved all the way, so It must be something else causing it. :

I thought about a fuel issue too, but I just can’t get my head arround why it would throw a overboost code.. It don’t make any sense.. 🙁

[firewalk]

I did what the video told me. But I imediately noticed that in my case the rod is able to move all the way, there is no sticking in my case. I still used a long screwdriver pushing it up just to be sure, but when I enabled and disabled vacuum to the actuator it moved all the way, so It must be something else causing it. :

I thought about a fuel issue too, but I just can’t get my head arround why it would throw a overboost code.. It don’t make any sense.. 🙁

[firewalk]

Problem solved!

I managed to drill out most of the seized bolt. Tried to use various easy outs but nothing worked, so I just drilled away as much as i could and then managed to re-thread using a m12x1,5 tap. I didn’t have high hopes because there was so much hard steel still left in between the threads there, and I was afraid that i might not hit the right spot when rethreading, and then destroying what threads that was left, but it went just fine.
One or two of the outher threads was almost gone, grined down to nothing, but the rest seemed to be in good condition.
I put in the bolt and torqued it down according to specs and it seems to work just fine.
He has been driving arround for many days now with no problems, I checked the bolt today and it has not come loose or anything, so I guess I managed to save the day anyway! 🙂

[firewalk]

Problem solved!

I managed to drill out most of the seized bolt. Tried to use various easy outs but nothing worked, so I just drilled away as much as i could and then managed to re-thread using a m12x1,5 tap. I didn’t have high hopes because there was so much hard steel still left in between the threads there, and I was afraid that i might not hit the right spot when rethreading, and then destroying what threads that was left, but it went just fine.
One or two of the outher threads was almost gone, grined down to nothing, but the rest seemed to be in good condition.
I put in the bolt and torqued it down according to specs and it seems to work just fine.
He has been driving arround for many days now with no problems, I checked the bolt today and it has not come loose or anything, so I guess I managed to save the day anyway! 🙂

[firewalk]

Thanks allot! I’ll definately be checking this out first thing in the morning! :cheer:

[Author]

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