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These are all very excellent suggestions. I took a break from working on this because it was really starting to bum me out, and well, rain. Getting geared up to get back at it in this heat wave. FYI the lever is squished against the inside of the drum, there is no way for me to back it off the star wheel. I am getting more confidence from all of you about man-handling the shoes. However, my first mode of action will be to try to remove the right side drum. If I cannot remove that one without jamming it either, I will just angle grind those buggers off and buy new drums. If I can get the right drum off, then I will go-to-town on the shoes on the left side instead, and buy new shoes. I will get back to yall to let you know how it goes!
At least my drum is pulled away from the wheel hub. This dude is pretty nonchalant about cutting into his hub! I hope it’s his hub…
IS THIS REALLY MY ONLY SOLUTION???
Well dang it. I definitely have a “situation” I tried budging the star wheel and it wouldn’t. It is stuck in there tight. The shoes are lodged in tight, and at a slight angle, in the drum. I cannot get any of my tools in the crack to snip the side spring, the top spring is buried under the clevis (star adjuster). On top of this dandy situation, I just tried removing the brake line from the wheel cylinder with my new 10mm flare wrench I got for the job, and the flare wrench stripped the bolt. Yes, I presoaked with penetrating lube. Yes, I am crying a little bit.
Will removing the wheel hub be my only way? Can I even if I have no way to remove the parking brake cable from inside cuz the drum is stuck on? Is my only recourse to take a medal disk and angle grind the drum off?? If I do THAT, will I have to replace the drum on the other side too??? AAAArrrrgh. Arg.
Thank you SO MUCH! That vid was perfect! I know what I am looking at now!! Ahh, one step closer to beer time. You are my hero. I can see the teeth now, so I will definately try to ratchet that. I am reluctant to try removing the drum off the other side because I can’t afford another surprise.. that is a smart manuever for sure, but I think I got this figgered out now. Yup wheel cylinder IS toast, tis the cause for the repair. I also have the master to replace. But I think I should have the wheel done first before I go ahead on that. You rock. Thanks again
I am perfectly aware I figged up. I studied the vids, looked over my manual, and still somehow missed the part about losening the shoes BEFORE attempting to remove the drum. The shoes stuck on the drum, the pins have snapped off, I have purchased a new spring kit. I cannot move forward with confidence however, because I have never seen inside before so I don’t KNOW how all the bits are connected, really, the manual is not perfect. I snipped the lower spring. I would like to just snip the others. I guess my question is, if I ratched the drum off more, will I bend/break the clevis or parking break lever? What do I do next? Please help!?
I now know that these relays are normally open. Closing completes their circuit. I think I tested the relay incorrectly. There was no diagram on the relay itself. So I assumed the wrong circuit. I am going to re test, and post pic. Still not sure if it is the fan relay…
This padawan is not yet ready to tackle the idle issue.
I have yet to 100% confirm the coolant system is air-free. I very graciously received the wiring diagram for the coolant system. Now I am not sure I tested a rad fan relay at all. Or whether there is supposed to be constant power going to the relay I tested.
The diagram shows the US model having a fan relay, and the CAD model using the coolant temp switch to complete the circuit.This thread… http://www.civic4g.com/index.php/forum/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=14955;url=http://www.civic4g.com/index.php/forum/
…aks if anyone can help me figure out what model I have, so I may confirm whether the relay I tested is what it is. Here I will post a pic of the location of relay.
If anyone here has insight, that would be awesomesauce. I am waiting 2 weeks for factory service manual to arrive in mail, but I need car running before then. Hail Mary!
Ta. I plan to, I actually did find one leak dripping almost directly onto the back of the fuse box. I removed the wipers and vent cover and bruised my forearm getting all the built up debris out of the drain spots on the driver side. I tried to reseal things. But I know I need a new windshield. It is leaking on top of the dash from there as well. So once I get this car rolling again I will soak it and check the underdash part out. But methinks in order to be sure I should replace the windshield.
Anybody reading this, thinking about buying an old used car, test drive in the winter!
I feel it would be worth making this work, I hear so many good things about Honda motors from this generation, and so far it has been easy to work under the hood. Nothing too hard to reach.
But there are four water leaks, broken auto transmission, short on main wiring harness or engine harness, hole in the muffler, ripped CV boot, pitted rotors, shot shock absorbers, left turning signal is slow to respond or faulty,cooling fans don’t turn on, idle is hunting and high rpms, now mixture way off. And not to mention I bought used winter tires and there is internal damage I didn’t see! The body is not perfect but its not bad either and no rust underneath except on exhaust pipes. Engine is strong. Suspension is inspected and safe.
If I can get a tranny at wreckers for 50-90 $ (CAD), and a windshield for $250-300, that’s not so bad, right?
