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Turns out Bank 1 sensor 2 was bad. Bank 2 sensor 2 is good. So I only had one sensor to replace. I just bought a new diag tester with graphing capability which really helped figure it out.
thanks for your reply. looking to replace cable, not the trunk release itself.
October 28, 2019 at 9:29 pm in reply to: I have a 2007 sentra 2.0l can i run thicker oil in it. #895165I found out that with these newer cars you cant put in a heavier oil. However I have ordered a catch can. Thanks for the input.
i would have it towed. Doubt it will be a quick fix.
Had same problem with Nissan sentra. Mine was also jerking hard when put in forward or reverse. Plus it made strange noise on rough roads. I changed out the rear bottom motor mount AKA(torque Rod). Completely fixed it. Almost like having new car. Second one I have put in in 12 years.
The jb weld did not hold. Had to take engine out of truck and take to machine shop to repair.
nope all new
just read that aftermarket alternators may not work well in nissani read what it takes to replace pan gasket-. Basically lift motor. Not sure my pump bolt will hold so might as well rig that too. Any preference for silicone to do this with.
Thanks for your replay.
This block is cast iron. I have never tried this on cast iron before. Thanks for your reply.
I will check it out this weekend
When i changed plugs at 100k i noticed a liittle oil around one of the plugs. Could this possibly have gotten worse and causing my problem? Guess I will change plugs when I get a chance and change intake maifold gasket and valve cover gasket since i assume that may be where the oil leak is coming from.
February 3, 2018 at 7:20 pm in reply to: Car dies while driving several minutes before it restarts #886037Finally figured this one out. Figured it out by accident like a lot of problems I fix. Actually fixed it few months ago. Thought i would input what i found. I had changed out the fuel pump. I thought with almost 220k that might be the problem. A week later car stalled again. So I decided to change out the plugs
the following week. While checking out the car I noticed some corrosion on battery. It wasnt so much the connections as the entire battery and bracket were showing signs of corrosion. I gave it a thorough cleaning and so far 5 months later car hasnt stalled. I tried to understand why this would cause a problem like this. On the positive lead of the battery is this fuse bank assmbly which is quite large. I guess this is for all the devices that need power when you turn car off. Like alarm and door locks etc. Oh and thanks for the suggestions. I believe some one on here even mentioned that as a solution. Thanks again.I was able to make my own adapter. I used a fuel filter and plugged it into the quick disconnect then with rubber hoses I was able to hook up the fuel pressure gauge. I had to go to auto zone disconnect fuel line and find a fuel filter that would work. I ran the pressure test the pressure was right at 51 . When iu accelerated it dropped a pound. When I turned car off prresure dropped 2 pounds however after 30 minutes it dropped to 25 pounds. I also noticed when i started car after releasing pressure it took a few seconds to get to 51 lbs. whether that matters or not. Wasnt able to do more testing wife needed car.
August 3, 2017 at 7:07 pm in reply to: Car dies while driving several minutes before it restarts #882635On older cars i would change throttle position sensor. I had that problem on several other cars. This has a motor instead built into the throttle body and they are a little pricey to swap out. Cant understand why when a car dies some kinda code isnt set. This can be really dangerous in the wrong cirumstances
i setup my scanner. Here are readings.
tps keyon engine off 0
tps -idle .7
STFT -idle- (.7&0) fluctuates
LTFT-idle (-1) steady
STFT – 2k rpm (1.5- 0) fluctuates
LTFT- 2k rpm (-3.4) steady
STFT-3k rpm (1.5- 2.3 ) fluctuates
LTFT-3k rpm (0.0) steady once it gets over 2k it drops to zero -
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