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Yes, I assume so. The window goes down just fine, it’s going up where it either works or you sit there clicking the switch for 30 seconds until it finally decides to go up. Also, every other window works fine from that set of switches, it’s only the drivers one that’s funny.
Thanks. I ended up just swapping them. It is back right to front left and swapping them didn’t fix anything. Off to look for used switches.
Thanks. I ended up just swapping them. It is back right to front left and swapping them didn’t fix anything. Off to look for used switches.
September 22, 2014 at 11:01 pm in reply to: Strange clanking noise from front right tire area. #632342Ok, there’s the rod that goes from the connection in the picture I attached to another connection with the strut near the top. Both of those bushings look toast, they’re all floppy and don’t seem to be doing much BUT I’ve looked on upteen diagrams and can’t tell what that rod is called or what bushings it needs.
Total noob question, but I could use some help here.
Attachments:September 22, 2014 at 11:01 pm in reply to: Strange clanking noise from front right tire area. #622575Ok, there’s the rod that goes from the connection in the picture I attached to another connection with the strut near the top. Both of those bushings look toast, they’re all floppy and don’t seem to be doing much BUT I’ve looked on upteen diagrams and can’t tell what that rod is called or what bushings it needs.
Total noob question, but I could use some help here.
Attachments:So I took the door panel off and I’m looking at part number BN8F-66-350A which is the 4 switch module. I don’t have the right size torx driver (hate torx drivers!) to get it open and I’d like to see if any one the connections inside are bad. Does anyone know if I can just pop the top of the switches off? Or will that break them completely? It’s a 170 dollar part, so I don’t want to just give it a shot and see what happens.
Thanks
Other question. Just out of curiosity can I swap the motors for the rear window with the front just to see if that fixes it. No one will ever sit in the back so if that does fix it then I’m golden.
So I took the door panel off and I’m looking at part number BN8F-66-350A which is the 4 switch module. I don’t have the right size torx driver (hate torx drivers!) to get it open and I’d like to see if any one the connections inside are bad. Does anyone know if I can just pop the top of the switches off? Or will that break them completely? It’s a 170 dollar part, so I don’t want to just give it a shot and see what happens.
Thanks
Other question. Just out of curiosity can I swap the motors for the rear window with the front just to see if that fixes it. No one will ever sit in the back so if that does fix it then I’m golden.
I’m pretty sure the motor isn’t struggling as I haven’t heard it make a single sound.
I’m pretty sure the motor isn’t struggling as I haven’t heard it make a single sound.
Now the light comes on when I start the car and then goes off after I hit the brakes once then comes back on later. Reading trouble codes C1145 chassis C1234 Chassis and U2046 network.
Thank goodness for torque app.
I haven’t checked any connections in the car yet, will try to do so tomorrow.
Now the light comes on when I start the car and then goes off after I hit the brakes once then comes back on later. Reading trouble codes C1145 chassis C1234 Chassis and U2046 network.
Thank goodness for torque app.
I haven’t checked any connections in the car yet, will try to do so tomorrow.
Hi valvoline guy,
I’d like you to tell me, in as much detail as you can, what the difference between synthetic and conventional oil is. I’d like, if you can, actual details about the chemistry of it, not just “synthetic is engineered” or “synthetic has more additives in it” or “synthetic is synthetic” (which is the answer I get most often). Break it down for me.
Thanks!
Hi valvoline guy,
I’d like you to tell me, in as much detail as you can, what the difference between synthetic and conventional oil is. I’d like, if you can, actual details about the chemistry of it, not just “synthetic is engineered” or “synthetic has more additives in it” or “synthetic is synthetic” (which is the answer I get most often). Break it down for me.
Thanks!
Hey Eric,
I found what you said about electric cars being modular interesting. I do think that’s the way manufacturers are going. It reminded me that, back in 2008, I was looking at buying a Mazda 3 and was doing some research and came across this http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_C1_platform
That goes back to the early 2000s. And even back then they were already thinking about modular setups that could be tweaked for each vehicle line across different brands.
Great video.
Hey Eric,
I found what you said about electric cars being modular interesting. I do think that’s the way manufacturers are going. It reminded me that, back in 2008, I was looking at buying a Mazda 3 and was doing some research and came across this http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_C1_platform
That goes back to the early 2000s. And even back then they were already thinking about modular setups that could be tweaked for each vehicle line across different brands.
Great video.
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