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I sold this Time Sert kit, I’m not sure how to delete the post from forum. Information wise, the Time Sert thread kits work great especially for aluminum block threads for head bolts on Honda engine I had to re-thread.
Joe, The TYC cooling fans $32.00 plus shipping from Rockauto are the ones I used on my Honda’s and never had a problem with them. Pretty easy to replace. They also so the fan motor relays listed under electrical switch. Search on this forum too I think Eric covers cooling system problems?
Joe, you could make a set of mini jumper cables with small alligator clips, unhook the wire harness at the fan then connect the jumper wire to fan side of the plug and then to car battery to make sure they work. I’ll dig up my Manual and see what I can find on the cooling fans. The sensors are fairly reasonable through Rockauto, I used them a lot for my parts and I think they had good prices on the Fans too. Also check your owners manual it might talk about the A/C fan relay switch. I seem to remember a couple of relays on the right side of the radiator just under the front upper frame. I no longer have my honda’s otherwise I could take a picture of them and location.
Peter
Hello Joe, When I did the cylinder head gasket renew on my 1997 honda I never got a CEL. I don’t believe having the head shaved would throw off ECU. You could do a couple of things, disconnect the batter and let it sit so the computer resets itself. Buy a code reader I used an OBD 2 reader and the plug is behind the ashtray in center console.. You could have Advance auto, or auto zone run a check for you. They use to do that? I would double check all your sensor connection plugs to make sure they are all plugged in and didn’t pop off, it easy to miss one when putting things back together. Maybe one of the oxygen sensors are acting up, or a sensor is bad. I would also check the vacuum lines in case any got disconnected during head removal. One thing I learned about this engine is they don’t like to be overheated and I had a one of the cooling fan motors sticking, (Bad bearing) as it wouldn’t kick on smoothly, it would take a minute to turn. If you have any other questions let me know as I can look through my Honda repair manual. Here’s my email. thiel.peter.cw@gmail.com Peter
The car is stock all original. The mixture is 50/50, new water pump and thermostat as it was due and I had already ordered the timing kit. I test drove it yesterday before the snow storm and everything seems to be working as it should. Temp is below mid point on the gauge and after driving it and then running at high idle to kick on the fan’s both fans turned on and then off when the engine temp cooled down. After I shut the engine of, the Passenger side (radiator cooling fan) kicked on and ran for a while until it timed out and or the temp dropped as I went inside and then checked on it a few minutes later and it was off. It seems to be doing what it’s suppose to, and both fans run when the A/C is on. It looks like it’s fixed but going to keep an eye on the temp.
The car is stock all original. The mixture is 50/50, new water pump and thermostat as it was due and I had already ordered the timing kit. I test drove it yesterday before the snow storm and everything seems to be working as it should. Temp is below mid point on the gauge and after driving it and then running at high idle to kick on the fan’s both fans turned on and then off when the engine temp cooled down. After I shut the engine of, the Passenger side (radiator cooling fan) kicked on and ran for a while until it timed out and or the temp dropped as I went inside and then checked on it a few minutes later and it was off. It seems to be doing what it’s suppose to, and both fans run when the A/C is on. It looks like it’s fixed but going to keep an eye on the temp.
Thank you for the help. Honda doesn’t have the feature if the sensor fails or switch is disconnected that the fans will kick on. I put the A sensor (thermostat housing) back in and when the engine temp is reached both cooling and condenser fan kick on. When the engine is hot and turned off the cooling fan kicks on from sensor B at the cylinder head outlet pipe/upper radiator hose. It kicked on yesterday after I test drove the car. The fan stayed on for a while and then turned off. I don’t recall the last time I heard the fan kick on after driving it and I wonder if that contributed to excessive temp changes in the cylinder head before it started to cool. It appears things are working as it’s suppose to now.
Thank you for the help. Honda doesn’t have the feature if the sensor fails or switch is disconnected that the fans will kick on. I put the A sensor (thermostat housing) back in and when the engine temp is reached both cooling and condenser fan kick on. When the engine is hot and turned off the cooling fan kicks on from sensor B at the cylinder head outlet pipe/upper radiator hose. It kicked on yesterday after I test drove the car. The fan stayed on for a while and then turned off. I don’t recall the last time I heard the fan kick on after driving it and I wonder if that contributed to excessive temp changes in the cylinder head before it started to cool. It appears things are working as it’s suppose to now.
I haven’t figured out why the head gasket started leaking as the radiator is about 5 years old and the garden hose flush looked good as I had good flow out the bottom hose, before I hooked it up. All the fins are in good shape. No leaves and junk between the radiator and A/C condenser. I also can feel the temperature differences between the top and bottom hoses as the engine heats up.
I don’t have a laser temp gun but thinking of getting one or using electronic meat temp probe, not very accurate but I have one that I might try just to get some reading off the thermostat housing and the return pipe.
Thanks for the input…
I haven’t figured out why the head gasket started leaking as the radiator is about 5 years old and the garden hose flush looked good as I had good flow out the bottom hose, before I hooked it up. All the fins are in good shape. No leaves and junk between the radiator and A/C condenser. I also can feel the temperature differences between the top and bottom hoses as the engine heats up.
I don’t have a laser temp gun but thinking of getting one or using electronic meat temp probe, not very accurate but I have one that I might try just to get some reading off the thermostat housing and the return pipe.
Thanks for the input…
You are right on the lost motion assemblies heads on the vtec as it keeps the mid rocker arm in contact with the camshaft.
I’m replacing the old lost motion assemblies with the newer spring design to see if it helps quiet down the valve train. I read on a few forums that a weak lost motion assembly can cause some noise from the mid rocker arm. Not sure if that’s true or not but I got them and will swap them out.
Take care, Pete
You are right on the lost motion assemblies heads on the vtec as it keeps the mid rocker arm in contact with the camshaft.
I’m replacing the old lost motion assemblies with the newer spring design to see if it helps quiet down the valve train. I read on a few forums that a weak lost motion assembly can cause some noise from the mid rocker arm. Not sure if that’s true or not but I got them and will swap them out.
Take care, Pete
Thanks Chris for your help and recommendations.
I was think of using a different torque wrench this time around as I was wondering the same thing that your Honda techs said. I was looking at the sears digital torque wrench listed online, but I wondered about the accuracy compared to straight up click type. I’m going to pull the head and get it checked out and go from their. I think once I get a look at the head gasket and see how much the head is warped, (hopefully not cracked) it will tell the tale.
I’ll post what I find wrong, but that might be a few weeks as some home projects are on my to do list first.
I noticed on my engine that the valve train is rather noise (sounds like a sewing machine) I ordered new Lost motion assemblies which are made of a heavy spring material and smooth tappet head compared to the original oil filled hydraulic version. I haven’t installed them yet because I didn’t feel like pulling the cam off the head. I will now while everything is coming apart. I had some ignition pinging and found the Vtec engine doesn’t like Bosch plugs, changed to NGK and it ran much better. Not sure if that’s the type of ping noise your hearing or if it might be a valve train noise.
Thanks, Pete
Thanks Chris for your help and recommendations.
I was think of using a different torque wrench this time around as I was wondering the same thing that your Honda techs said. I was looking at the sears digital torque wrench listed online, but I wondered about the accuracy compared to straight up click type. I’m going to pull the head and get it checked out and go from their. I think once I get a look at the head gasket and see how much the head is warped, (hopefully not cracked) it will tell the tale.
I’ll post what I find wrong, but that might be a few weeks as some home projects are on my to do list first.
I noticed on my engine that the valve train is rather noise (sounds like a sewing machine) I ordered new Lost motion assemblies which are made of a heavy spring material and smooth tappet head compared to the original oil filled hydraulic version. I haven’t installed them yet because I didn’t feel like pulling the cam off the head. I will now while everything is coming apart. I had some ignition pinging and found the Vtec engine doesn’t like Bosch plugs, changed to NGK and it ran much better. Not sure if that’s the type of ping noise your hearing or if it might be a valve train noise.
Thanks, Pete