[Tim]

Ok so I know me updating this so soon will make it seem as if I really haven’t been working on it, but after rereading the Accord specific forums I ran across a little detail of how the FITV works. There are two holes in the throat of the throttle body on the left hand side. The top one is where the FITV receives air. Blocking this off effectively cancels out the FITV (you can feel the suction with your finger while the engine is running). I started the motor, blocked it off with my finger, and the idle magically returned to its normal warmup speed of about 1100-1200RPM. After letting go, it STAYED THERE. Is is possible some air worked its way into the FITV and had a hard time getting out?

I’m currently letting it get up to operating temp.

[Tim]

Are you sure the problem is with the caliper? It’s not just a failed line or one of it’s fittings?

[Tim]

[hide][/hide]You want to consider what you need based on the tools you’re going to use.

[quote=”Dtech494″ post=191238]They are bit of extra money but the belt drive ones last longer and run cooler.

Just a recommendation is to remove the air regulator out of the tank and put your air hose or coupler directly into the tank.[/quote]

As for that recommendation, if you’ve got the properly sized compressor I don’t think you should ever have to do that. It’s there for a reason.

[Tim]

This doesn’t fall under “pattern failure”. Brake hose deterioration is just something that’s going to happen no matter what. There’s not ever been a piece of rubber made for anything in the history of the world that didn’t deteriorate and fail in its intended purpose at some point.

[Author]

Replies