Forum Replies Created
-
Replies
-
I have a electronic version of it 97-2000.pdf Its the Service Manual. If your interested in obtaining a copy of it just let me know and I’ll give you the link to download it. Offering it free since it was given free to me!
I have a electronic version of it 97-2000.pdf Its the Service Manual. If your interested in obtaining a copy of it just let me know and I’ll give you the link to download it. Offering it free since it was given free to me!
No problem. Glad I was of some help to you. Any time you got another one in the shop and need help I’ll be around. Very pleased to hear it has ended well. 🙂 always stay dirty!
Jeff
No problem. Glad I was of some help to you. Any time you got another one in the shop and need help I’ll be around. Very pleased to hear it has ended well. 🙂 always stay dirty!
Jeff
yeah seems to be too much oil. hopefully that problem is gone with other turbo. So yes, a great possibility you have a bad sensor. First thought the pickup tube in oil pan may have had clog since it is common but as you stated you have pressure. Its your high pressure sensor on the filter flange. It reads only rpms at or over 1800-2000RPMs.
You can easily test this by unplugging the wire from the sensor and grounding it to the engine of the car. If the wiring is good then your oil light and buzzer will stay off at all times. If there is a break in the wiring usually the buzzer and light will come on immediately upon revving the engine above 2000 rpms. At this point you are going to need to examine the wiring, try to find the break and repair it. Another simple way is to use a test light; between the sensor and the positive battery terminal should be ‘off’ at warm idle and come ‘on’ as you rev to 1800-2k RPM, if the sensor on the flange is working properly. If the buzzer still sounds with the wire to the sensor grounded the problem is most likely the wiring to the instrument cluster.
BUT!! if you grounded the sensor wire and it made the buzzer and flasher stop then the next step will be to replace that sensor. The newer improved style plastic is grey. Hope that helpes you.
yeah seems to be too much oil. hopefully that problem is gone with other turbo. So yes, a great possibility you have a bad sensor. First thought the pickup tube in oil pan may have had clog since it is common but as you stated you have pressure. Its your high pressure sensor on the filter flange. It reads only rpms at or over 1800-2000RPMs.
You can easily test this by unplugging the wire from the sensor and grounding it to the engine of the car. If the wiring is good then your oil light and buzzer will stay off at all times. If there is a break in the wiring usually the buzzer and light will come on immediately upon revving the engine above 2000 rpms. At this point you are going to need to examine the wiring, try to find the break and repair it. Another simple way is to use a test light; between the sensor and the positive battery terminal should be ‘off’ at warm idle and come ‘on’ as you rev to 1800-2k RPM, if the sensor on the flange is working properly. If the buzzer still sounds with the wire to the sensor grounded the problem is most likely the wiring to the instrument cluster.
BUT!! if you grounded the sensor wire and it made the buzzer and flasher stop then the next step will be to replace that sensor. The newer improved style plastic is grey. Hope that helpes you.
Do you have any previous knowledge of the old motor dropping in oil? If there is oil in the intercooler and pipes then what you could have is a leaking turbo seal which is slowly filling your intake tract with oil, which could lead to a dreaded runaway. The right-side of the intercooler as you’re looking at it in the wheel well- is the lowest portion in the system. Some “wetness” is common there (ccv system relieves air pressure in the engine and feeds it back into the intake. This air holds oil mist which settles in the intake low spots) but more than that points to a turbo seal failing. Not seeing it in person or a picture I’d say turbo is failing.
Another thing to do is remove the ducting to the turbo inlet to inspect the compressor wheel. Inspect the wheel blades for damage and spin the wheel. The wheel should spin freely in the housing and remain spinning for a few seconds. Any resistance to movement indicates worn bearings and possibly damage to the oil seal.
How much oil would you say was in there? And Yes it should be cleaned out whether you change the turbo or not.
Do you have any previous knowledge of the old motor dropping in oil? If there is oil in the intercooler and pipes then what you could have is a leaking turbo seal which is slowly filling your intake tract with oil, which could lead to a dreaded runaway. The right-side of the intercooler as you’re looking at it in the wheel well- is the lowest portion in the system. Some “wetness” is common there (ccv system relieves air pressure in the engine and feeds it back into the intake. This air holds oil mist which settles in the intake low spots) but more than that points to a turbo seal failing. Not seeing it in person or a picture I’d say turbo is failing.
Another thing to do is remove the ducting to the turbo inlet to inspect the compressor wheel. Inspect the wheel blades for damage and spin the wheel. The wheel should spin freely in the housing and remain spinning for a few seconds. Any resistance to movement indicates worn bearings and possibly damage to the oil seal.
How much oil would you say was in there? And Yes it should be cleaned out whether you change the turbo or not.
VW’s are my hobby!! 2.0 gas or TDI? Did you have any problems with the lower rear mount. Many have problems with the two short bolts that fasten into the frame snapping off. Also one other thing was that that three mounts require you replace the bolts since they are stretch bolts. I have hear many reusing them (don’t know why) on the VW’s and failed very quickly. Not a good thing 🙂 I’m sure you knew that before you started but wanted to let you know just incase. Its a pretty straight forward job. Hope all goes well. Keep us posted.
VW’s are my hobby!! 2.0 gas or TDI? Did you have any problems with the lower rear mount. Many have problems with the two short bolts that fasten into the frame snapping off. Also one other thing was that that three mounts require you replace the bolts since they are stretch bolts. I have hear many reusing them (don’t know why) on the VW’s and failed very quickly. Not a good thing 🙂 I’m sure you knew that before you started but wanted to let you know just incase. Its a pretty straight forward job. Hope all goes well. Keep us posted.
Hi, this is Jeff’s wife, Jeff is at work and wants to win soooooo bad, he is on the phone giving me instructions of how to log in and post for him. Hope he wins!! Thanks. P.S. He’s been following you for three years now… best site ever. :cheer:
Hi, this is Jeff’s wife, Jeff is at work and wants to win soooooo bad, he is on the phone giving me instructions of how to log in and post for him. Hope he wins!! Thanks. P.S. He’s been following you for three years now… best site ever. :cheer:
You could go with a Genuine part but it would also be good to get torque bar that goes further since you may be over torquing the bearing which may be the real problem, since you cant really measure how much more you going over the 200. The torque is 210 ft. lbs. (290 Nm). To much or not enough can lead it to failing quicker.