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update.. i did a volt test on the system and when the truck is at idle i at bettery its 14.3v. inside the truck is 14.5v.. when i push the gas padel to 1500 rpms at the bettery its at 14.4v. inside the truck its 14.7v.. i think its supported to have the same votes inside as the engine.
Quoted From Beefy:
I googled ‘f 150 generic electronic module’ and the first couple results say it’s the BCM or body control module. It controls power windows and locks. If the fuse is blowing, inspect the wiring to the module, mostly the power wire since you are popping fuses. Here is a link for free wiring diagrams:bbbind.com
Good luck.
all my fuses are fine its just that the battery saver relay overheats and blows.. could i have a short on a wire?
the truck starts and runs great the old plugs and wires was bad
just wanna thank anyone for helping me get my truck back on the road and THANK YOU ALL FOR YOUR HELP
if i put out the SPOUT connector will it mess up the truck or no i dont know what it is or what it dose ?
is this the spark advance i found one just like it by the ecm/pcm.. do i just unplug it and start the truck?
i lined up everything just like the repair manual say to im just waiting for my new spark plugs and wires to to here from fedex
Quoted From dreamer2355:
Make sure that you disable the spark advance that the computer will try to compensate for when you adjust the timing.
how do you disable the spark advance?.. and about where would i find it?
i think your right i checked the timing to day and its 4 degrees off so im gonna reset it .. the repart book tells me to set it at 10 degrees BTDC
[quote]Quoted From dreamer2355:
Are you looking at fuel trim numbers, pulse width or duty cycle of a particular injector?[/quot
yes.. its the live data and says Short term and Long term fuel trim
Quoted From dreamer2355:
The job of the LTFT is to keep the STFT to as close to zero as possible.
Your STFT numbers will be varying during vehicle operation. However, if you have negative LTFT numbers, that usually means the vehicle is taking away fuel due to a rich condition. If the numbers are positive, the vehicle is adding fuel to compensate for a lean condition.
is there a easy fix for that like cleaning the injectors?
Quoted From dreamer2355:
As long as your fuel trim numbers are +/- 10 of each other, you should be fine.
Here is a video by Scanner Danner that explains fuel trim –
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oRX2V6_a … re=g-all-c
i drove the truck to the store about 5 miles round trip and when i pulled on the gas pedal it has a hesitation and lass of power to go and sound sort a like a knocking sound and the truck starts to shimmy, shake if the rpm go higher then 1500.. could that be bad injectors? when can i do to fix the problem
Quoted From jesse166062:
On a Ford if you are thinking PCM then think again and again before you buy one, they rarely go bad. Make sure your conections at the PCM are good. I would bet you have a crank sensor problem.
if i have a crank sensor problem would it set off a code on the computer?
i have one Question after starting the truck i hooked up the code scanner to look at the live/view data and the passenger side fuel injector is reading -14 at cold but at normal operating temperature its -6 and the driver side is fine. does that mean the passenger side is starting to clog up?. i have 4 new o2 sensors its a f150 with a 4.2l v6
the truck run good that’s all it was V-) im so glad
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