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Zinc (ZDDP) has been removed from motor oil because it clogs catalytic converters. I have a couple of 1960s cars and I have read that the lack of zinc in today’s oil can cause accellerated wear on camshaft lobes, particularly high lift camshafts.
Is it really necessary to add the ZDDP additive when changing oil? Is there enough ZDDP in racing oil? Is racing oil suitable for street use? Is the zinc issue all a fallacy?
Well then I’m glad I set he engine up on TDC. I’ve changed timing chains on OHV V8s and getting to TDC always been the first step.
It was a learning experience and my first timing belt replacement. If I ever have to do another, I will be more confident. I was nervous about dealing with an interference engine. It’s a good step to rotate the engine by hand a few revolutions to make sure nothing is binding before starting it up.
This car should serve my niece well through college now that we replaced the seals, belt, tensioner, water pump, etc. It is a no-brainer to do that when cracking one of these engines open, even over an oil leak.
Thanks for making your videos.
Well then I’m glad I set he engine up on TDC. I’ve changed timing chains on OHV V8s and getting to TDC always been the first step.
It was a learning experience and my first timing belt replacement. If I ever have to do another, I will be more confident. I was nervous about dealing with an interference engine. It’s a good step to rotate the engine by hand a few revolutions to make sure nothing is binding before starting it up.
This car should serve my niece well through college now that we replaced the seals, belt, tensioner, water pump, etc. It is a no-brainer to do that when cracking one of these engines open, even over an oil leak.
Thanks for making your videos.
I found this video useful while my brother-in-law and I replaced the timing belt on my niece’s ’99 Impreza with the 2.2L SOHC engine.
I do have a question before sharing an unusual issue that cropped up with the repair of this car.
My question is in regards of TDC and the number one cylinder. I viewed some other U-tube videos as well as yours about how to change the timing belt on a Subaru and none involved TDC with the number one cylinder while the Haynes manuals and the instructions I read on the Auto Zone repair help mentioned this step as one of the first to be performed.
In the end we got the car fixed, but I have to ask why would you go through the effort to put the number one piston at TDC when you are going to turn around and rotate the crankshaft/cams to align the timing marks before removing the timing belt?
The crazy occurance with this repair was after we got the car started it ran horrible. We thought we had the belt on wrong and it caused the car to be out of proper timing.
We found there wasn’t any spark being detected by the timing light on cylinder number 1. My brother-in-law replaced the ignition coil and the engine then ran on just two cylinders. He put the old ignition coil back on the car. We went ahead and took the engine back apart to where we could check the belt, re-fit the belt, tensioners, etc, and made sure thetiming marks aligned.
We still didn’t have all four cylinders firing. Today we checked one last time. My other brother-in-law was sure even the first time we had the belt on properly. We performed a compression test and had 170-180 lbs in each cylinder, so that was good. I cleaned the MAF sensor with the MAF spray cleaner. We once again checked the coil and this time we pulled ignition cables (six months old) and checked for fire. We had one weak spark from one terminal, none from two others.
It was the coil. My brother-in-law went to a different parts store, bought yet another coil, and the car ran on all four cylinders. What are the odds of the ignition coil dying while replacing the timing, belt, having the replacement coil turn out defective, and having to get a third coil to get the engine to run properly.
This whole job was necessitated from a camshaft seal leak that morphed into a job of replacing the camshaft seals, front crank seal, and a kit with the water pump, the idlers, timing belt tensioner, and timing belt.
At this point you might as well throw in a coil pack and spark plugs!
We stayed dirty for a long time on this job, but it was still better than having my brother-in-law shell out $1,100 the repair garage wanted to do this job.
I hope I didn’t drone too long for my first posting. The others will be shorter.
I found this video useful while my brother-in-law and I replaced the timing belt on my niece’s ’99 Impreza with the 2.2L SOHC engine.
I do have a question before sharing an unusual issue that cropped up with the repair of this car.
My question is in regards of TDC and the number one cylinder. I viewed some other U-tube videos as well as yours about how to change the timing belt on a Subaru and none involved TDC with the number one cylinder while the Haynes manuals and the instructions I read on the Auto Zone repair help mentioned this step as one of the first to be performed.
In the end we got the car fixed, but I have to ask why would you go through the effort to put the number one piston at TDC when you are going to turn around and rotate the crankshaft/cams to align the timing marks before removing the timing belt?
The crazy occurance with this repair was after we got the car started it ran horrible. We thought we had the belt on wrong and it caused the car to be out of proper timing.
We found there wasn’t any spark being detected by the timing light on cylinder number 1. My brother-in-law replaced the ignition coil and the engine then ran on just two cylinders. He put the old ignition coil back on the car. We went ahead and took the engine back apart to where we could check the belt, re-fit the belt, tensioners, etc, and made sure thetiming marks aligned.
We still didn’t have all four cylinders firing. Today we checked one last time. My other brother-in-law was sure even the first time we had the belt on properly. We performed a compression test and had 170-180 lbs in each cylinder, so that was good. I cleaned the MAF sensor with the MAF spray cleaner. We once again checked the coil and this time we pulled ignition cables (six months old) and checked for fire. We had one weak spark from one terminal, none from two others.
It was the coil. My brother-in-law went to a different parts store, bought yet another coil, and the car ran on all four cylinders. What are the odds of the ignition coil dying while replacing the timing, belt, having the replacement coil turn out defective, and having to get a third coil to get the engine to run properly.
This whole job was necessitated from a camshaft seal leak that morphed into a job of replacing the camshaft seals, front crank seal, and a kit with the water pump, the idlers, timing belt tensioner, and timing belt.
At this point you might as well throw in a coil pack and spark plugs!
We stayed dirty for a long time on this job, but it was still better than having my brother-in-law shell out $1,100 the repair garage wanted to do this job.
I hope I didn’t drone too long for my first posting. The others will be shorter.
