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Well I got another ABS light event. I plugged in for the ABS code and got code CO227 indicating a bad wheel sensor. Nothing that can’t be fixed via $30 to Rock Auto.
Now I have another new set of problems. My Mother-in-laws’ ’01 Mazda MPV needs an alternator and I have discovered it is an act of congress to change.
Well I got another ABS light event. I plugged in for the ABS code and got code CO227 indicating a bad wheel sensor. Nothing that can’t be fixed via $30 to Rock Auto.
Now I have another new set of problems. My Mother-in-laws’ ’01 Mazda MPV needs an alternator and I have discovered it is an act of congress to change.
Okay, we had some mild weather here recently in Nebraska and I pulled the wheel/brakes and removed the sensor. It was a little grimy and I cleaned it up.
A few days prior I replaced the stop light switch since one of the codes indicated an issue with it.
After cleaning the sensor I plugged in and cleared the codes. I did have code CO281 which indicates a faulty stop light switch.
I drove it today and there were no issues. It will take a few more trips before I can deem it repaired, but it is starting to appear a $17 stop light switch was the culprit.
I think the worst scenario is I will have to replace the sensor I just cleaned.
Thanks for all the input everybody.
Okay, we had some mild weather here recently in Nebraska and I pulled the wheel/brakes and removed the sensor. It was a little grimy and I cleaned it up.
A few days prior I replaced the stop light switch since one of the codes indicated an issue with it.
After cleaning the sensor I plugged in and cleared the codes. I did have code CO281 which indicates a faulty stop light switch.
I drove it today and there were no issues. It will take a few more trips before I can deem it repaired, but it is starting to appear a $17 stop light switch was the culprit.
I think the worst scenario is I will have to replace the sensor I just cleaned.
Thanks for all the input everybody.
I take your advice to heart JTF. I will check the wiring and for a dirty/corroded connection/terminals.
I agree that replacing parts unnecessarily should be avoided.
I’ll find out more once I take it apart.
I take your advice to heart JTF. I will check the wiring and for a dirty/corroded connection/terminals.
I agree that replacing parts unnecessarily should be avoided.
I’ll find out more once I take it apart.
Maybe I should try to clean it as ukrkoz suggests. The sensor that is acting up is the one from the replacement hub bearing.
I live in Nebraska so there is a good chance the weather (road salt use) could be a factor.
The light comes on intermittently and doesn’t remain on for very long. So maybe the sensor can be cleaned and re-used.
I appreciate the input I am receiving. Thanks everybody. I’ll post the results.
Maybe I should try to clean it as ukrkoz suggests. The sensor that is acting up is the one from the replacement hub bearing.
I live in Nebraska so there is a good chance the weather (road salt use) could be a factor.
The light comes on intermittently and doesn’t remain on for very long. So maybe the sensor can be cleaned and re-used.
I appreciate the input I am receiving. Thanks everybody. I’ll post the results.
We checked using the ABS scanner and it indicated the driver side sensor was faulty. This is the side with the replacement hub bearing, so I am surprised it was the sensor on that side.
I might just go ahead and spend the $30 for a new sensor if I have to take it all apart to check/clean it anyway.
The scan tool also indicated an issue with the stop light switch, so I might go ahead and get one of those for another $18.
I drove it today and the light never came on the the brakes operated as usual.
We checked using the ABS scanner and it indicated the driver side sensor was faulty. This is the side with the replacement hub bearing, so I am surprised it was the sensor on that side.
I might just go ahead and spend the $30 for a new sensor if I have to take it all apart to check/clean it anyway.
The scan tool also indicated an issue with the stop light switch, so I might go ahead and get one of those for another $18.
I drove it today and the light never came on the the brakes operated as usual.
Yeah the hub bearing we replaced about four years back wasn’t complicated. We had to heat up some of the bolts to get it apart, but it wasn’t a big deal.
I drove it today and the light never came on. I am going to plug my code reader tool in and fish for a code. I am also going to clean the connections. I also saw where applying some dia-electric grease on the terminals is helpful.
I don’t think I have a bad hub bearing. I don’t detect any of the symptoms that occured when the hub bearing went bad the last time.
Yeah the hub bearing we replaced about four years back wasn’t complicated. We had to heat up some of the bolts to get it apart, but it wasn’t a big deal.
I drove it today and the light never came on. I am going to plug my code reader tool in and fish for a code. I am also going to clean the connections. I also saw where applying some dia-electric grease on the terminals is helpful.
I don’t think I have a bad hub bearing. I don’t detect any of the symptoms that occured when the hub bearing went bad the last time.
Yes, I plan on plugging in to get an ABS code. I hope that I can get some sort of a reading even if the ABS light is off. This is an intermittent issue. The truck stops as it should, but I know the ABS system has a problem.
A few years ago I replaced one of the front hub bearings, so I might have the hub bearing to consider. The one I had to replace was growling on turns and the ABS light never came on and I did not have any brake symptoms I am having now.
I want to think this is caused by a bad sensor, but I plan on finding out this weekend.
Thanks for following up. I’ll post my findings.
Yes, I plan on plugging in to get an ABS code. I hope that I can get some sort of a reading even if the ABS light is off. This is an intermittent issue. The truck stops as it should, but I know the ABS system has a problem.
A few years ago I replaced one of the front hub bearings, so I might have the hub bearing to consider. The one I had to replace was growling on turns and the ABS light never came on and I did not have any brake symptoms I am having now.
I want to think this is caused by a bad sensor, but I plan on finding out this weekend.
Thanks for following up. I’ll post my findings.
Zinc (ZDDP) has been removed from motor oil because it clogs catalytic converters. I have a couple of 1960s cars and I have read that the lack of zinc in today’s oil can cause accellerated wear on camshaft lobes, particularly high lift camshafts.
Is it really necessary to add the ZDDP additive when changing oil? Is there enough ZDDP in racing oil? Is racing oil suitable for street use? Is the zinc issue all a fallacy?
