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This engine was professionally rebuilt 15,000 miles ago. My friend just wrecked his truck and now I have the chance to buy the engine. The engine only had 90,000 miles on it before it was rebuilt. I’m just wondering if a 99 2.2 motor would fit into a 97 s10 that has a bad 2.2 motor. All the salvage yards said no. And when I asked why nobody could tell me. If you could tell me why I would be extremely grateful. If it’s because of the tranny, I’m buying the entire truck that my friend wrecked and it has a great engine and transmission in it. I would move the entire thing over anyways. If it’s because of some type if sensor that his engine has and not mine then couldn’t I just move his computer over? If it’s cause of some different type of accessory part that his hard like an ac compressor or something then I could just use all of his parts. I just don’t see why the only engine that a 97 s10 could use is a 97 s10 engine. You can swap it for a v6 or stick a 350 v8 in it but not a 2 year different motor that’s the exact same size???? I even know people that stick 2001 engines in early 90’s model s10’s. How is that possible if this isn’t? If you could help guide me I would be very grateful
I was told to use either honda bond or just that black gasket maker stuff when installing the new one so I don’t have to worry about it leaking again. What are thoughts on this? I’m generally one for letting the o-ring do it’s job like Eric always says. But since this is such a leak prone area what are some thoughts on this. I doubt my friend will have the car long enough to ever experience another leak anyways. The old one lasted 10+ years. If I can expect it to go a long time without leaking I would rather not put anything on it. Thanks
I was told to use either honda bond or just that black gasket maker stuff when installing the new one so I don’t have to worry about it leaking again. What are thoughts on this? I’m generally one for letting the o-ring do it’s job like Eric always says. But since this is such a leak prone area what are some thoughts on this. I doubt my friend will have the car long enough to ever experience another leak anyways. The old one lasted 10+ years. If I can expect it to go a long time without leaking I would rather not put anything on it. Thanks
Okay. I just think they could’ve done a metal plug that threads into the side of the head instead of a plastic plug with a o-ring. But then again it would cost them 12 cents more
Okay. I just think they could’ve done a metal plug that threads into the side of the head instead of a plastic plug with a o-ring. But then again it would cost them 12 cents more
I would worry about trying to make the tires skid either. If your brakes take a lot of pressure just to slow your car to a stop then maybe there is air in your lines, the air will compress and make you have to press a lot harder on your brake pedal. Also check the level of the brake fluid and check your rubber brake hoses like KingMeander said for twisting. Also there’s a possibility that the insides of these rubber hoses could be swollen on the inside and not allowing fluid to pass through easily, hence you having to press harder. This is less likely than air in your lines but it is a possibility. So I would check the other stuff first. I don’t know what would cause your poor gas mileage. Hopefully there will be some kind of check engine code that will reveal more on that. Good luck!!!
I would worry about trying to make the tires skid either. If your brakes take a lot of pressure just to slow your car to a stop then maybe there is air in your lines, the air will compress and make you have to press a lot harder on your brake pedal. Also check the level of the brake fluid and check your rubber brake hoses like KingMeander said for twisting. Also there’s a possibility that the insides of these rubber hoses could be swollen on the inside and not allowing fluid to pass through easily, hence you having to press harder. This is less likely than air in your lines but it is a possibility. So I would check the other stuff first. I don’t know what would cause your poor gas mileage. Hopefully there will be some kind of check engine code that will reveal more on that. Good luck!!!
Okay, I replaced the gasket and so far I don’t see any oil leaks. The gasket fell apart when I took it off so hopefully this fixed the problem. I had read on the internet that somebody suggested taking off the front air dam when doing this to make it easier but it was a huge pita that didn’t help at all. It took like 30 minutes of my time and didn’t open up anything that had to do with the adapter gasket. All that needed to he done is to take off the passenger wheel and there a small plastic cover held on by 3 screw type plastic clips. Once you get that off you have access to 2 of the 3 bolts holding on the ac compressor. After taking off the serpentine belt take out these 2 bolts. Then once under the car with the oil drained and the oil filter off remove the 3rd bolt holding on the ac compressor. One of the first 2 bolts is actually a stud with a nut on it. Slid the compressor off of this nut and move it to the side. Then there’s just 3 bolts holding in the oil filter adapter. One is up out of site and kinda hard to get an angle on. But after that it’s a piece of cake. Thanks everybody for your responses!!
Okay, I replaced the gasket and so far I don’t see any oil leaks. The gasket fell apart when I took it off so hopefully this fixed the problem. I had read on the internet that somebody suggested taking off the front air dam when doing this to make it easier but it was a huge pita that didn’t help at all. It took like 30 minutes of my time and didn’t open up anything that had to do with the adapter gasket. All that needed to he done is to take off the passenger wheel and there a small plastic cover held on by 3 screw type plastic clips. Once you get that off you have access to 2 of the 3 bolts holding on the ac compressor. After taking off the serpentine belt take out these 2 bolts. Then once under the car with the oil drained and the oil filter off remove the 3rd bolt holding on the ac compressor. One of the first 2 bolts is actually a stud with a nut on it. Slid the compressor off of this nut and move it to the side. Then there’s just 3 bolts holding in the oil filter adapter. One is up out of site and kinda hard to get an angle on. But after that it’s a piece of cake. Thanks everybody for your responses!!
Awesome video!! I’m about to start school to become an automotive technician and I’m trying to get anybody I know to let me help them work on their vehicles. I used this video and the other video you did when you first diagnosed the fairmont with bad inner tie rods to diagnose my father in laws car. (03 ford taurus). Basically an identical fix except I had to rent a tool to slip over the inner tie rod to take it off. There just wasn’t any room on this front wheel drive car for a pipe wrench. But I used all the things you showed us to do it. He’s taking it to get aligned soon and the process will be over. Again just want to say great video and thanks, you gave me the courage to pursue my dream of being an auto tech!! Keep up the great videos!
Awesome video!! I’m about to start school to become an automotive technician and I’m trying to get anybody I know to let me help them work on their vehicles. I used this video and the other video you did when you first diagnosed the fairmont with bad inner tie rods to diagnose my father in laws car. (03 ford taurus). Basically an identical fix except I had to rent a tool to slip over the inner tie rod to take it off. There just wasn’t any room on this front wheel drive car for a pipe wrench. But I used all the things you showed us to do it. He’s taking it to get aligned soon and the process will be over. Again just want to say great video and thanks, you gave me the courage to pursue my dream of being an auto tech!! Keep up the great videos!
I’m sorry I don’t have an answer to your question but I do have a question to ask you. I’m about to replace my upper and lower intake manifold gaskets and wanted to ask you a question. About how much time do you think it would take to tear down to the lower intake manifold gaskets? I have never been this far down in my engine before. I have only had the upper intake off. I have a 2000 Grand Prix non super charged. Thank you. I hope you get your coolant leak figured out. And I have read before, like tomatofarmer1 said, that there can be a lot left over in the engine in passageways and in the oil pan. I don’t know if you dropped the oil pan or not but I think it’s a requirement if there’s coolant in your oil.
I’m sorry I don’t have an answer to your question but I do have a question to ask you. I’m about to replace my upper and lower intake manifold gaskets and wanted to ask you a question. About how much time do you think it would take to tear down to the lower intake manifold gaskets? I have never been this far down in my engine before. I have only had the upper intake off. I have a 2000 Grand Prix non super charged. Thank you. I hope you get your coolant leak figured out. And I have read before, like tomatofarmer1 said, that there can be a lot left over in the engine in passageways and in the oil pan. I don’t know if you dropped the oil pan or not but I think it’s a requirement if there’s coolant in your oil.
My bet would be bad wheel bearing too! Generally you should replace both wheel bearings when one goes bad. You don’t always have to but it’s one of those good practice things. If one has wore bad enough to cause noise then the other one isn’t far behind. My opinion is to replace the other side and that will probably fix your noise. Jack the front end of your car up and go to the side that you haven’t replaced yet. Grab the wheel at the top and bottom an wiggle. Check for play and clunking. This will indicate a bad wheel bearing. Also spin in and listen closely for any noise. Spin the fixed side first just so you know exactly what a good one sounds like. And check it for play first so you know exactly what a good one feels like. I just replaced both wheel bearings on my 2000 Grand Prix. My passengers side was bad and had a lot of play/noise, but my drivers side sounded a lot better and had no play. I went ahead and replaced both and when I took the (good) wheel bearing off to replace it all the grease was dried up and it wasn’t long for this world anyways. Good luck! Keep us updated!!
My bet would be bad wheel bearing too! Generally you should replace both wheel bearings when one goes bad. You don’t always have to but it’s one of those good practice things. If one has wore bad enough to cause noise then the other one isn’t far behind. My opinion is to replace the other side and that will probably fix your noise. Jack the front end of your car up and go to the side that you haven’t replaced yet. Grab the wheel at the top and bottom an wiggle. Check for play and clunking. This will indicate a bad wheel bearing. Also spin in and listen closely for any noise. Spin the fixed side first just so you know exactly what a good one sounds like. And check it for play first so you know exactly what a good one feels like. I just replaced both wheel bearings on my 2000 Grand Prix. My passengers side was bad and had a lot of play/noise, but my drivers side sounded a lot better and had no play. I went ahead and replaced both and when I took the (good) wheel bearing off to replace it all the grease was dried up and it wasn’t long for this world anyways. Good luck! Keep us updated!!