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I still can’t seem to find the ground for the headlights. Is there just one or one for each light?
I still can’t seem to find the ground for the headlights. Is there just one or one for each light?
If grounding the negative lead on the engine reads the exact same as on the battery terminal does that mean that the main ground wire is fine?
If grounding the negative lead on the engine reads the exact same as on the battery terminal does that mean that the main ground wire is fine?
Okay guys, I’ve done some tests. I had my alternator checked and it tested good… I believe it was 14.25 volts. My battery tested good at 12.83 volts. Now here’s the thing, I turned on my lights and checked the connector for the headlight and it only read at 10.61 volts. A big voltage drop, or maybe a normal one… I’m not sure. I’m pretty sure it should read higher than this am I right? What’s my next step/ probably cause? I will head back out right now and check for bad grounds and re-ground the wire. One thing i did do is I hooked the positive end of the tester to the headlight plug and then I placed the ground wire of the tester to the negative battery cable. This read at 12.83, the same as the battery voltage. So… A bad ground? And I’ve grounded the tester on a couple of other places on the engine and they all read 12.83… Does this indicate that the bad ground is at the lights themselves?
Okay guys, I’ve done some tests. I had my alternator checked and it tested good… I believe it was 14.25 volts. My battery tested good at 12.83 volts. Now here’s the thing, I turned on my lights and checked the connector for the headlight and it only read at 10.61 volts. A big voltage drop, or maybe a normal one… I’m not sure. I’m pretty sure it should read higher than this am I right? What’s my next step/ probably cause? I will head back out right now and check for bad grounds and re-ground the wire. One thing i did do is I hooked the positive end of the tester to the headlight plug and then I placed the ground wire of the tester to the negative battery cable. This read at 12.83, the same as the battery voltage. So… A bad ground? And I’ve grounded the tester on a couple of other places on the engine and they all read 12.83… Does this indicate that the bad ground is at the lights themselves?
Hey it’s been a while, but how well is that scanner working out for you?
Hey it’s been a while, but how well is that scanner working out for you?
Very surprisingly it went on the alternator with the large red wire. I tried grounding it to the block and nothing would happen. No interior lights or anything. I moved it to the alt and everything came on. Thanks a lot for your help. And thanks Eric for the Sonoma series! If I hadn’t watched it then I would not have had the courage to attempt to change the motor out in my 97 s10. I’ve never done anything near this complicated before and I was able to complete it almost entirely myself in just 3 days. I had one of my friends helping me get the transmission bolts in and the motor mounts but that’s about it. Thanks for what you do!
Very surprisingly it went on the alternator with the large red wire. I tried grounding it to the block and nothing would happen. No interior lights or anything. I moved it to the alt and everything came on. Thanks a lot for your help. And thanks Eric for the Sonoma series! If I hadn’t watched it then I would not have had the courage to attempt to change the motor out in my 97 s10. I’ve never done anything near this complicated before and I was able to complete it almost entirely myself in just 3 days. I had one of my friends helping me get the transmission bolts in and the motor mounts but that’s about it. Thanks for what you do!
I will probably give up trying to put a 98 motor in it. I just don’t think it will work. The entire engine just looks too different. But a 96 engine looks 100% the same from what I can see. Does anybody know if it would possibly work? Everything in the engine bay is exactly the same as far as I can tell. And both engines has crankshaft and camshaft positioning sensors, which from what I hear is why I can’t use a 94-95 engine.
I will probably give up trying to put a 98 motor in it. I just don’t think it will work. The entire engine just looks too different. But a 96 engine looks 100% the same from what I can see. Does anybody know if it would possibly work? Everything in the engine bay is exactly the same as far as I can tell. And both engines has crankshaft and camshaft positioning sensors, which from what I hear is why I can’t use a 94-95 engine.
This engine isn’t from a junk yard. It was a running engine 2 months ago. The truck it’s in only has 90,000 miles and it was just rebuilt.
This engine isn’t from a junk yard. It was a running engine 2 months ago. The truck it’s in only has 90,000 miles and it was just rebuilt.
This engine was professionally rebuilt 15,000 miles ago. My friend just wrecked his truck and now I have the chance to buy the engine. The engine only had 90,000 miles on it before it was rebuilt. I’m just wondering if a 99 2.2 motor would fit into a 97 s10 that has a bad 2.2 motor. All the salvage yards said no. And when I asked why nobody could tell me. If you could tell me why I would be extremely grateful. If it’s because of the tranny, I’m buying the entire truck that my friend wrecked and it has a great engine and transmission in it. I would move the entire thing over anyways. If it’s because of some type if sensor that his engine has and not mine then couldn’t I just move his computer over? If it’s cause of some different type of accessory part that his hard like an ac compressor or something then I could just use all of his parts. I just don’t see why the only engine that a 97 s10 could use is a 97 s10 engine. You can swap it for a v6 or stick a 350 v8 in it but not a 2 year different motor that’s the exact same size???? I even know people that stick 2001 engines in early 90’s model s10’s. How is that possible if this isn’t? If you could help guide me I would be very grateful
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