Forum Replies Created
-
Replies
-
What do you mean when you say stuck? Do you mean the piston in the caliper or do you mean the slide pins in the caliper?
Are there ways I can check my mounts to see if they’re bad? I replaced my top mounts before because when I would shift from drive to reverse the engine would twist back and forward really hard shaking the vehicle.
As far as the control arm bushings I will check those and see if I see anything.Now I have a really interesting question for both of you, or anybody else that can answer it.
When I changed my axels I had to undo the nut off of my ball joint and remove the control arm from the steering knuckle. I obviously compressed the spring before I did this to take all of the tension off of the assembly so it would be easier to work with. When I did this my entire shock/strut/steering knuckle assembly swung away from my car. It was actually really dangerous because it was way too much force for me to press it back down and towards the vehicle. I had to take a ratchet strap and wrap it around the frame and the assembly and ratchet it back down into place so I could get it back onto the ball joint and reattach everything. It just moved sideways away from the vehicle. I can’t possinly explain what could possibly cause that movement. It doesn’t make any sense to me. The only pressure that should have been on it was the spring and I compressed it and removed that pressure. So I have no idea. Is something else messed up? It might help to know that both sides did this equally and the only way I could get it back down was the ratchet strap method.Are there ways I can check my mounts to see if they’re bad? I replaced my top mounts before because when I would shift from drive to reverse the engine would twist back and forward really hard shaking the vehicle.
As far as the control arm bushings I will check those and see if I see anything.Now I have a really interesting question for both of you, or anybody else that can answer it.
When I changed my axels I had to undo the nut off of my ball joint and remove the control arm from the steering knuckle. I obviously compressed the spring before I did this to take all of the tension off of the assembly so it would be easier to work with. When I did this my entire shock/strut/steering knuckle assembly swung away from my car. It was actually really dangerous because it was way too much force for me to press it back down and towards the vehicle. I had to take a ratchet strap and wrap it around the frame and the assembly and ratchet it back down into place so I could get it back onto the ball joint and reattach everything. It just moved sideways away from the vehicle. I can’t possinly explain what could possibly cause that movement. It doesn’t make any sense to me. The only pressure that should have been on it was the spring and I compressed it and removed that pressure. So I have no idea. Is something else messed up? It might help to know that both sides did this equally and the only way I could get it back down was the ratchet strap method.Could it be possible that the hissing is a very small leak in the cooling system letting out excess pressure? When my s10’s radiator had a hairline crack it hissed but didn’t leak much fluid at all.
Could it be possible that the hissing is a very small leak in the cooling system letting out excess pressure? When my s10’s radiator had a hairline crack it hissed but didn’t leak much fluid at all.
Alright guys thanks! I bought a truck that uses the same battery as my car, so when I switched the battery over to my truck I never put it back in my car. I only have the one battery between the two vehicles. I need to buy another so I can just rotate driving the car and truck so neither one sits.
Alright guys thanks! I bought a truck that uses the same battery as my car, so when I switched the battery over to my truck I never put it back in my car. I only have the one battery between the two vehicles. I need to buy another so I can just rotate driving the car and truck so neither one sits.
On my post I stated that the system was discharged by the previous owner. So I’ve never used it and it’s not low it’s completely empty cause have been off twice. Is there a way to just check the compressor to see if it works before having it charged again?
On my post I stated that the system was discharged by the previous owner. So I’ve never used it and it’s not low it’s completely empty cause have been off twice. Is there a way to just check the compressor to see if it works before having it charged again?
Well turns out it’s a hot wire problem. I took a wire and grounded the bulb directly to the negative on the battery. It had no effect. I even did both lights at once and nothing. But as soon as ran a wire from the positive terminal of battery to the positive side of the battery, Bingo! Light came on bright. So what should I check now? I’m thinking either a bad wire or a switch possibly? What are your opinions?
Well turns out it’s a hot wire problem. I took a wire and grounded the bulb directly to the negative on the battery. It had no effect. I even did both lights at once and nothing. But as soon as ran a wire from the positive terminal of battery to the positive side of the battery, Bingo! Light came on bright. So what should I check now? I’m thinking either a bad wire or a switch possibly? What are your opinions?
I think I’ve figured out which wire should be the ground on the socket. To test this can I take a jumper wire and ground it to a known good location on the engine then touch it to the ground wire on the headlamp. This should make it light up fully if the problem is a bad ground right? then I should be able to splice that wire into the existing connector and make a new ground. Am I right in thinking this or would I mess something up by doing this? Sorry for all the questions but I am not good with electricity
I think I’ve figured out which wire should be the ground on the socket. To test this can I take a jumper wire and ground it to a known good location on the engine then touch it to the ground wire on the headlamp. This should make it light up fully if the problem is a bad ground right? then I should be able to splice that wire into the existing connector and make a new ground. Am I right in thinking this or would I mess something up by doing this? Sorry for all the questions but I am not good with electricity