[Evolutionjuan]

If I loosen the screw on the throttle body the rpm should be going down but it doesnt. The butterfly in the throttle body is completely closed but I might take it off again and clean it again. If I tighten the screw on the throttle body the rpm rises and I need it to go down not up lol. My idle does not jump anymore as previously mentioned it just stays at around 1000rpm when warmed up. I will try to cover some of the holes with my finger and see what that does. Would my idle at 1000rpm effect my chances of passing smog? From my opinion the idle at 1000rpm is only at that when idling but if your driving around in the car does it really make a difference? I recently was driving the car and I checked how easy or hard it was to stall the car from neutral to 1st gear. O yea its a manual. Anyways my car is pretty hard to stall unless u want to do it purposely. My throttle linkage isnt tight it has a bit of play but not to much. I did also take the fast idle control valve that has the screen and cleaned that too already. It was extremely dirty along with the plate that has the 3 screws that was covered with like a film of gunk. I havent cleaned my intake manifold, im kind of iffy about that because its attached to the engine with the bolts and I really dont know the torque settings on that and wouldnt want to mess up anything. If its just removing bolts and putting it back on with just tighting the manifold then I am able to do it but torque settings would be sketchy for me. My tbs that is on top of the throttle body is cracked but I sprayed carb cleaner on it and my rpm stayed the same along with other hoses. One thing I noticed was when i took off the intake itself and turned on my car the throttle body was sucking so much air in it was making like a hissing noise which I thought was a vacuum leak now i know its supposed to breathe in air but should it be making that hissing noise and I actually put my hand on the mouth of the throttle body and it sucked my hand so air is passing threw. The only issue now besides the cracks in my muffler as mentioned above is my rpm being stuck at 1000rpm.

[Evolutionjuan]

I also read somewhere that when cleaning out the throttle body u should try not to remove/clean off this sort of painted ring around the butterfly which in turn lets less air in? Anybody know about this or know if it matters or not? Also like I mentioned if I push on the throttle spindel type thing that has the throttle cable attached to it even tighter to were it lets less air in I can make the rpms go down because the engine is breathing less air but should that be messed with? I also tryed to go to my local Autozone to get the idle air control valve that is located underneath the throttle body with the wax pellete in it and they couldnt find the part because it wasnt under idle air control valve. Does it have another name for it? I think im also going to pick up another throttle body gasket because the one i have might be worn out or letting air in perhaps.

[Evolutionjuan]

Thankyou HBVX for the clear up. And hey im a noob here. But I have not tryed adjusting the Idle Air Bypass screw which is what your talking about right? According to another site it says to:

Procedure:
– Warm the engine up completely.
– Turn off all loads (AC, blowers, defoggers, stereo, EVERYTHING)
– Unplug wire harness from IACV (engine will almost stall)
– Adjust the idle-air bypass valve for 550 RPM
– – (PLEASE anyone with specific RPM for certain years chime in)
– Turn the engine off & plug everything back in

Now you should force the system to re-learn the idle behavior:
– Allow the engine to cool down completely
– Reset your ECU (different years pull various fuses)
– Start the engine without touching the gas pedal
– Allow it to run & warm up completely without touching the gas pedal

[Evolutionjuan]

@College man: thanks for the vids will try and do that.

[Author]

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