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The warranty is 3years or 50,000 miles. I mean I have never replaced a clutch myself and neither has my friend. My friend claims he knows about 85% of how to replace a clutch but id rather do it right then be sorry at the end. As far as the resurfacing costing 100 dollars: yea thats what I told the girl I was talking to but she may not know what she was talking about. I mentioned to her that if there gona charge me for resurfacing the flywheel at that price id rather just get a brand new one and she added that 99.9% of the time they never have to fully replace the flywheel because they are able to resurface it but hey id rather get a new one for that price. At this point I dont know if my clutch is slipping/burning becaues of my flywheel or my transmission. If I knew the flywheel was the exact issue then id have no problem buying the parts and having me and my friend install it even though it would take a while but hey I would at least know the issue was solved.
Can someone give me the torque specs to the flywheel bolts (d15B engine) because me and my friend are maybe going to attempt to replace the clutch and flywheel. I have a question about how one could possibly install the clutch wrong if it comes with an alignment tool? I think im going with an OEM Exedy clutch and im not sure about the flywheel but in the case that I pull it off and take it to a machine shop and they tell me it just needs to be replaced then ill just buy another flywheel. I seen a SACHS flywheel for $55.99 on oreillyauto and you can use the following url to see what im talking about. (http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/search/Flywheel/02271.oap?year=1993&make=Honda&model=Civic&vi=1168646&rpl=1&categoryRedirect=02271) Anyone heard of the brand SACHS? I went on the Exedy website and I only see a lightweight racing flywheel which is too much in price for me. Im a student and am unemployed so im looking for sorta in a way the cheapest/reliable/best route I can without having to spend more then $250. An exedy OEM clutch kit i found on ebay and amazon for about $98 so the rest is for maybe a rear main seal and flywheel. So my shopping list is as follows for my price range.
1. OEM Exedy Clutch kit ($98)
2. ???Flyhweel ($55-120)
3. Crankshaft seal which im assuming is that rear main seal right?There is some free play in the clutch pedal but its a hydraulic system. I will still try and adjust it to see what happens. Im gona try deglazing it but im afraid the clutch is just all burnt up for the reason that lets say the last quick run I did on the car I seen smoke come out from underneath my car in the rear view mirror. Theres this place I know of in my city called Express Transmissions and they wanted to charge me last time about $560 to replace the clutch but it comes with a 3 year/50,000 mile warranty so I would have some peace of mind rather then replacing everything myself and having to wonder if “itll slip again” and with that warranty id know that if it goes out under warranty then It would get replaced its just a little rough to be paying that much.
What rear main seal are you guys talking about? And you guys think I should go with just an OEM Exedy Clutck kit or a Stage 1? If I purchase a brand new flywheel do I have to resurface it or is it good to go?
I wouldnt know the shape of the rear main seal that is behind the flywheel because Ive never taken the flywheel off. You guys think if I resurface the flywheel and reinstall the clutch I have now it would work? Because like I said this clutch only has about 2000 miles on it didnt even last more then 8 months.
The old clutch was still had life but it looked burnt and was slipping super bad and it was an Autozone clutch. The flywheel I have yet to replace… Might still be stock flywheel. Im not sure how many miles the motor has im guessing any where from 150,000-250,000. The car just recently passed smog so I know its in good health just the clutch is slipping. I tryed babying it along with shifting at rpm’s of 3000 and releasing the clutch pedal fast so it could grab more but no it made it even worse. Could the flywheel be the factor of this? 2 clutches have slipped since I have owned this car but I have never replaced the flywheel or resurfaced it. Anyone recommend any flywheels besides OEM because OEM is expensive I assume. What about that Exedy Flywheel. When I replaced the clutch I replaced the clutch disc and pressure plate. Im thinking Exedy Flywheel+Exedy Stage 1 Clutch. What you guys think? I need something thats gona be extremly durable, handle some hard runs, resists slips, and once again must be extremly durable like alowing me put more then 80,000miles on it durable.
So guys im back with extremely bad news. My clutch started slipping and unfortunately as much as I dont want to say it I think its shot. I believe it all started yesterday. I installed some strut bars and I make some quick runs to test out the handling so I obviously had to smash on the gas pedal. I have been experiencing some smells that smell like my clutch might be burning or maybe my tranny. The reason I say my transmission is because my friend also has the same car but an automatic and whenever he steps on it you can smell his transmission. Even though mine is stick the smells are very similiar. My clutch only has about 2000 miles + or – 500 miles. I currently have an Autozone clutch. When I first bought the car it had just gotten a brand new clutch also from Autozone. After I purchased the car and after about 2 weeks the clutch started slipping until I couldn’t even drive it. So a brand new Autozone clutch was put in and well now its slipping and its shot now. My Driving habits: I usually don’t smash on it but lets just say I drive about 20% of the time hard and the 80% normal shifting around 3500 normally. Could that cause my clutch to slip this early. I am considering investing in a Stage 1 Exedy Clutch. When I began to switch gear I let go of gas then initiate clutch pedal>shift to gear> then let go clutch pedal>as soon as clutch pedal is released I give it gas. This extremely sucks because it just seems its one thing after another and I cant believe the clutch is going out. I dont rev match, I dont double clutch, I dont do anything other then just normal driving in my opinion. Could it be that the Autozone clutch sucks or what are some things that I should keep in mind. When I installed the clutch that is on it right now I did break it in with 1000miles. About 800 miles of city to really use the clutch and about 200 miles highway. Could it be my transmission syncroids could it be my transmission itself. I am sorry if I should began another post and If you guys want I will. Actually I am going to post another thread. But feel free to post to this one too ill check it.
Hey guys just returning to let everyone know that I passed smog!!! Im super happy because all the work I have put into this car and it passed!!! I feel like celebrating lol. Well everything with the car is great so far. There is only one concern. My idle at warm is about 3-7rpm. It stays more at about 300rpm but I know its because I messed with the throttle body air bypass screw. But anyways its not a huge issue now but I may reset the ecu and mess with the air bypass screw till its perfect but not really a must right now. Anyways thanx once again guys for the support.
Well guys here is a list of what I recently checked for again on my car and new parts I put in and some I havent yet put in:
Checked Again
1. Vacuum Leaks
2.Air in the cooling system/coolant level
3. My timing
4.IACV screen is clean
5.All hoses are connectedNew Parts
1.Spark Plugs (My old spark plugs werent in bad shape at all but I figured id replace them anyways I didnt know what their health was because it was the previous owner who installed them).
2. Spark Plug wireset
3. Installed my new muffler and its sweet!!!!New Parts that have not been installed yet:
1.Throttle Body gasket
2. Spark Plug tube seals (for the reason that when I took out the old spark plugs they had a bit of oil on them which I know there not supposed to be but I am figuring its because my seals are weak??????
3. Thermostat/GasketResults as of today: Since my air bypass screw on the throttle body has been messed with previously (im guessing because there is no factory seal or paint) I turned the screw clock wise (to the right) and it calmed down my rpm’s (before doing this I followed the correct rules to set your idle: had to unplug an electrical connection to the IACV that is on the intake manifold and when rpm were good> shut off car> pulled ECU fuse out waited 5 min>reconnected the IACV connection and put the ECU fuse back in and well my car is runnin smooth as can be now) I also checked my timing with timing gun and adjusted via distributor. I am not saying that the scew was the problem or that its 100% totally fixed but as of now my car is running as it should. I appreciate all your guys input and help and hope this thread will help other people with the same issue. Thank You guys again. And if you have any comments,questions, concerns, or more advice feel free to post.
The spark plugs were oily on top and bottom. But not like I pulled one out and it was dripping oil if that makes sense they had oil on them should of took a pic of them. But see this is the thing the head cover gasket I installed along with the tube seals have no more more than about 6 or 8 months. The VCG is perfectly fine no leaks but the seals suck…..And ill keep the Fel Pro in mind. My kit does come with a one year warranty so Ill just take em back to autozone and ill ask how much is the difference for fel pro. I put a bottle of CRC Guaranteed to Pass in my gas tank with a full tank of gas, im looking to get it smogged after I have to refill the tank and hopefully itll pass. Fingers crossed
Does anyone know the spark plug firing order from the distributor? Pictures would be great thank you.
Im going to picknpull soon to pull some parts for my car and autozone to pick up a throttle body gasket just in case because the one I have looks cheap and ugly now. @HBVX: R u sure im not supposed to adjust the air bypass screw (which is directly on the throttle body itself) along with disconnecting some connections like you said.
Thanks guys for all your help so far. I looked at my base screw on the throttle body and it doesn’t have a seal or paint so I am assuming it was previously messed with from the previous owners. I just bought some NGK Platinum spark plugs and wireset because that wireset that is currently on my car arent lookin good. I also bought a thermostat, throttle body gasket. When i take off the throttle body to install the new gasket i will clean the throttle body again if it needs cleaning. If all of this still doesnt smooth out the throttle, then I guess I would be forced to mess with the throttle base screw to control the idle right? In the case that I need to do this to lower my rpm’s from about 1000rpm to about 7rpm or so does it affect my engine in any negative ways? Tightening the base screw means less air or what is its function? I am noobish so I dont want anyone to feel as if they arent giving me the correct advice or answers because I may simply have just not done everything correctly as far as like for example check absolutely all hoses for vacuum leaks. Thank you all for your input.
Hey I recently cleaned the screen on my Fast Idle Air Control Valve and that seemed to have taken away my surging idle. I still have an issue with my idle being stuck at 1000rpm-1200rpm though. I tryed looking for vacuum leaks using carb cleaner like Eric did in his vids but nothing. Is it normal for a honda to be idling at rpm’s of 1000-1200. Before I even touched my engine my car would idle normally at around 500-800rpm but with the surging idle. I first took of the idle air control valve that is underneath the throttle body which has the wax pellete that u need to screw all the way down in which I did but after install and start of my engine the rpms stayed at 1000-1200. Could it be that I need to loosen the plastic screw type mechanism? Is having my rpms as mentioned really bad/not good for my car?
I did mess with the base idle screw but it doesnt matter if i totally unscrew it the rpm’s stay at 1000rpm it isnt untill i apply pressure to the throttle body mechanism to give it more gas but i turn it to let less air in and that when the rpm’s drop. No check engine light. My coolant is full and no air. I guess the only thing left to do is a tune up, search for vacuum leaks, do a ecu idle learn reset, and well replace my muffler as mentioned previously. Do you think my muffler being shot would have anything to do with my idle? Before I messed with the screw on the idle air control valve that has the wax pellete my rpm’s were around 500-800rpm. What if I unscrew the wax pellete to about half way from fully tight to really loose? I understand the tighter means less air but its worth a shot.