Forum Replies Created
-
Replies
-
[quote=”popoften” post=137639]Thanks all for all the valuable input. I really appreciate it.
In the end I could not remove the broken off bolt, so I ended up getting a HeliCoil kit from NAPA, drilled it out and re-threaded the hole, and installed a new bolt. The bracket is now tight.
Also, in the course of this exercise I noticed the belt tensioner was fried, so I replaced it along with the belt. Truck is back up and running like a champ!
This forum ROCKS, and you guys, who are so generous with your time, experience, and knowledge, make it so.
So, a heartfelt THANK YOU for helpiong me and my family save money, and a ton of it at that, on car repairs.[/quote]
Glad you got things fixed. Don’t you just hate it when something as dumb as an alternator bracket causes so much grief?
OK, I misunderstood. Your opening post sounded (to me) like you were going to mate the F350 axles to your existing suspension.
You do realize, I hope, that with the full F350 suspension, your 1/2 ton is going to ride like a Conestoga wagon. Not a whole lot of fun if you spend a lot of time in the truck every day.
This sounds like a very ambitious project, and I hope it goes well for you, without too many unforeseen snags and bottomless money holes. I’d be interested in reading your updates.
If the donor car has been sitting for several years, I wouldn’t really trust the struts.
Personally, I think it’s poor practice and false economy to recycle used suspension components. Get new struts and strut mounts. Use the proper coil springs for your car.
[quote=”PancakeEater” post=137589][quote=”barneyb” post=137587]The only knowledge I have is from my brother trying some aftermarket headlights. The plastic didn’t hold up to UV like OEM. Maybe if he parked the car inside but my brother doesn’t have a garage.[/quote]
Do you think an extra coat of quality clear would solve that?[/quote]
Probably not. It depends on what the lenses are made of. Acrylic (Plexiglass) does not stand up well to UV and will yellow or go milky. Polycarbonate (Lexan) is UV safe.
For a first vehicle, I’d recommend something older, ultra simple and unsophisticated. Something with a carburettor, no computer-controlled ashtrays, no airbags and ABS, few or no power accessories. Something you can fix with a butter knife and a can opener.
Whatever you get, don’t blow all your money on the purchase price. Keep several grand in a mason jar for insurance and a slush fund for repairs.
Unless the frame and body of the donor truck are completely shot, why not put the diesel truck on the road instead?
As for the swap, you’ll have to replace every piece of rubber fuel line with new rubber lines compatible with diesel fuel. Diesel fuel will eventually destroy rubber meant for gasoline.
Another thing I’m wondering about is your front suspension. The diesel is considerably heavier, and you could be heading into dangerous and unsafe waters if your 1/2 ton springs aren’t rated for the extra load. And your ball joints, bushings, brakes and the entire steering system is going to have to deal with this extra load as well.
You could try one of those soft dusting brushes meant for car interiors. A quick buffing with automotive wax now and then will help to keep the new toolbox looking good.
Thanks for the info.
Seems like they’d be really easy to misuse, to the point where they aren’t doing the job they were intended to.
I was taught that the open end of a wrench is for turning the bolt once it’s been loosened. The box end is used for breaking the bolt free, and a 6-point box is stronger (but less convenient) than the more common 12-point variety. Granted, it isn’t always possible to get a box end over a fastener in tight quarters or unusual circumstances.
You say you replaced the stock steel rims with stock alloy rims. Are you using the right lug nuts for the alloy rims? Quite often, the seating taper is different between nuts meant for steelies or alloys. The wrong taper won’t allow the nuts to center the rim holes with respect to the studs, and will not result in secure rim mounting, which could lead to stud failure.
Since the alloy rims are salvage yard picks, it’s possible the previous owner damaged them through poor maintenance and incorrect practices. Hopefully, the rim stud holes aren’t egg-shaped/elongated, which could cause the issues you’re experiencing.
And I’m sure this is just a trick of the eye, but in your photos your studs don’t seem to be parallel to each other and square to the rim seating surface. It looks like they spread outwards. Like I said, it’s probably just an optical illusion.
I’d have a close look at the engine and transmission wiring harnesses and connectors on both to make sure things are compatible between the two cars.
It can be frustrating, after the oily chunks have been swapped over, to find that something from car A doesn’t quite plug into car B.
[quote=”ukrkoz” post=137407]1. no adhesives will work. Period, end of sentence
2. you need some sort of armature inside the tube to hold pieces together, if you were to tape over them. Otherwise, they’ll fall apart. Or, tape will simply squeeze tube and kink it inside. What comes to mind as armature NOT restricting air flow is coil spring suitable diameter. Worse come to worse, use PVC pipe length and then do tape over.
3. Electrician tape melts. Should you figure sturdy armature inside, use hose clamps to secure torn pieces to it.[/quote]Anything melts if you get it hot enough. I’d say it wouldn’t be an issue here. For the minimal cost of the repair, it’s certainly worth trying. This is a chunk of dumb breather hose we’re talking about, not a critical component on the space shuttle. Keep it cheap, quick and simple.
On the Subaru Forester the steering shaft has two exposed metal U joints between the firewall and the rack. Don’t know if your Legacy is similar. If it is, try spraying a bit of lubricant on the joints. I know a Forester owner who got rid of steering noise by doing this.
This entire thing sounds fishy to me.
The other guy, after all, is selling the truck. Why? If the truck is any good to begin with, you’d think he’d repair it himself and continue driving it. The need for an oil pump could be the tip of the iceberg when it comes to hidden problems.