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I pulled the codes and found random cylinder misfire and an evap code that has been on there for about 2 years
I pulled the codes and found random cylinder misfire and an evap code that has been on there for about 2 years
To the best of my knowledge a flashing CEL is only triggered by misfiring.
To the best of my knowledge a flashing CEL is only triggered by misfiring.
Checked fuel pressure…fine, spark…fine, all readings on scanner were within range so I backed it up. Tested compression and it read about 20 per cyl. Took off valve cover and sure enough my valves were incredibly tight that I couldn’t get a feeler guage under any of them. Adjusted to spec and sure enough the car fired up and idled perfectly.
3yrs ago the timing belt snapped on me and banged up a couple valves. At that time I had the entire head redone by the shop that I used to work for. The valves haven’t been touched since that point and its weird that I am just now having issues with it. Of course last labor day my clutch went out and I just tucked it away in the garage until spring when I could fix the car in fair weather so that would explain why I didn’t expose the problem last year. As for previous years…who knows
Ok well I definitely don’t have a scan tool and how do I hook a fuel pressure gauge up to the fuel rail? Theres no port on there to tap into so do I need a special adaptor and if so where do I tap in?
All the logic in the world points at the ECT but I’ve swapped it out twice already(because I cracked the adaptor housing on the first one). This morning I decided to try turning the key on several times before starting to see if the problem is due to low fuel pressure. The sound of the fuel pump was different each time I did it and I almost got it to start after priming 5 or 6 times. Repeated with no luck. I unplugged the ECT and it really wanted to fire but just couldn’t quite do it as opposed to plugged in where it turns over like the fuel pump is disconnected. So like most other mornings I found myself rolling it down the driveway to bump starting it.
Cooling system has been bled
This may be a long shot but could there be a hairline crack in one of the sensors or connectors and the cold temps cause it shrink just enough to not send correct signal. I ask this because even though I can bump start my car it runs rough as hell until it warms up. The idle bounces around and is extremely sluggish when you accelerate.
This has been an ongoing problem for the last month so I’ve tried quite a few things. I’ve tried with no pedal, pedal floored and just about everywhere in between. To start it with the ECT unplugged I have to put the pedal to the floor which doesn’t make much sense to me
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