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“When I pulled the valve cover I removed the spark plugs and turned the crank pulley counterclockwise until the marks on the middle of the cam gears lined up. I then looked at the crank pulley and the white tdc mark lined up with the needle on the timing belt cover.”
“When I pulled the valve cover I removed the spark plugs and turned the crank pulley counterclockwise until the marks on the middle of the cam gears lined up. I then looked at the crank pulley and the white tdc mark lined up with the needle on the timing belt cover.”
It depends on what you mean by “correct setting” on the light. With the light set at 0 degrees, on cylinder #1, the red (16 degree btdc ignition mark) should line up. I believe with an adjustable timing light set at 16 degrees, the white (0 degree tdc cam mark) should line up.
I don’t usually have to wait long, and they have a parking lot where you wait with the car running to get tested. So the car has definitely been at operating temp when it is tested.
My GSR has 136k miles. The distributor is aftermarket and so is the cap/rotor I believe. I asked the dealership about getting an OE distributor but they told me it has been discontinued 🙁 I will probably put an OE cap/rotor back on it soon if I can get them. No smoke.
It depends on what you mean by “correct setting” on the light. With the light set at 0 degrees, on cylinder #1, the red (16 degree btdc ignition mark) should line up. I believe with an adjustable timing light set at 16 degrees, the white (0 degree tdc cam mark) should line up.
I don’t usually have to wait long, and they have a parking lot where you wait with the car running to get tested. So the car has definitely been at operating temp when it is tested.
My GSR has 136k miles. The distributor is aftermarket and so is the cap/rotor I believe. I asked the dealership about getting an OE distributor but they told me it has been discontinued 🙁 I will probably put an OE cap/rotor back on it soon if I can get them. No smoke.
Thanks for the suggestions Eric. When I pulled the valve cover I removed the spark plugs and turned the crank pulley counterclockwise until the marks on the middle of the cam gears lined up. I then looked at the crank pulley and the white tdc mark lined up with the needle on the timing belt cover.
I plan to check for exhaust and vacuum leaks next, and also the spark on each cylinder. I did previously check the connections on the ECT sensor and they were good, resistance on it was also within spec. Recently I removed the Oreilly’s plug wires and put OE back on. I replaced the chassis to engine ground with 8 gauge wire and cleaned up the connection. I also removed the map and iacv sensors and cleaned them, the car idles like a champ now so the idle is finally fixed.
I wish I had an emissions tester at home so I could see what kind of progress I am making, would be really nice! With everything I’ve done I’d like to believe the car will pass now, but I don’t believe so yet.
Thanks for the suggestions Eric. When I pulled the valve cover I removed the spark plugs and turned the crank pulley counterclockwise until the marks on the middle of the cam gears lined up. I then looked at the crank pulley and the white tdc mark lined up with the needle on the timing belt cover.
I plan to check for exhaust and vacuum leaks next, and also the spark on each cylinder. I did previously check the connections on the ECT sensor and they were good, resistance on it was also within spec. Recently I removed the Oreilly’s plug wires and put OE back on. I replaced the chassis to engine ground with 8 gauge wire and cleaned up the connection. I also removed the map and iacv sensors and cleaned them, the car idles like a champ now so the idle is finally fixed.
I wish I had an emissions tester at home so I could see what kind of progress I am making, would be really nice! With everything I’ve done I’d like to believe the car will pass now, but I don’t believe so yet.
Thanks for the info. I pulled the valve cover and checked the cam timing, it was at TDC, so I am not sure what to think. I suppose the light may be off since I did short the service connector. I also did a dry compression test and the cylinders were at 180 psi across the board which I believe is pretty low for a b18c1, but that was before I changed the oil. I recently changed the oil (and failed emissions again) so I will do another dry test, then follow it up with a wet test. I have also been planning to do the power balance test which I hopefully can complete soon.
I agree with you on the OE wires, but unfortunately I had no choice. The wire broke and the local dealership didn’t have them on hand. I suppose if the aftermarket distributor is causing an issue it will show up in the power balance test. Happy holidays.
Thanks for the info. I pulled the valve cover and checked the cam timing, it was at TDC, so I am not sure what to think. I suppose the light may be off since I did short the service connector. I also did a dry compression test and the cylinders were at 180 psi across the board which I believe is pretty low for a b18c1, but that was before I changed the oil. I recently changed the oil (and failed emissions again) so I will do another dry test, then follow it up with a wet test. I have also been planning to do the power balance test which I hopefully can complete soon.
I agree with you on the OE wires, but unfortunately I had no choice. The wire broke and the local dealership didn’t have them on hand. I suppose if the aftermarket distributor is causing an issue it will show up in the power balance test. Happy holidays.
Eric….If you see this post I really need your recommendation on this, I have put so much money into this car over the last several years. Please man, I will even send you money! 🙂 This is what I need to know:
This all seems to have started after the timing belt was replaced, and I suspect the #1 piston is not at TDC. When I check the timing with no adjustments, the 16 btdc mark lines up. BUT, if I adjust the gun to 16 degrees this should be TDC correct? Because it’s not. So even if the 16 btdc mark is lined up, if the #1 piston is not at TDC to begin with the timing will be off right? I suspect this is the case, causing a rich condition. How would you recommend that I verify this without tearing apart the engine?
Eric….If you see this post I really need your recommendation on this, I have put so much money into this car over the last several years. Please man, I will even send you money! 🙂 This is what I need to know:
This all seems to have started after the timing belt was replaced, and I suspect the #1 piston is not at TDC. When I check the timing with no adjustments, the 16 btdc mark lines up. BUT, if I adjust the gun to 16 degrees this should be TDC correct? Because it’s not. So even if the 16 btdc mark is lined up, if the #1 piston is not at TDC to begin with the timing will be off right? I suspect this is the case, causing a rich condition. How would you recommend that I verify this without tearing apart the engine?
Well the OE wires only had a year warranty, I’m out 80$ on those. Went back in and got it tested, it failed even worse than before. HC at idle is reading at 508 and it needs to be 220. I’m at a loss.
Well the OE wires only had a year warranty, I’m out 80$ on those. Went back in and got it tested, it failed even worse than before. HC at idle is reading at 508 and it needs to be 220. I’m at a loss.