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The voltage is low on both sides of connector 263, I guess that just leaves splice 138. I’ll check that when Jacob posts the location. I don’t see any signs of water getting in through the A pillar either. This is a California car and has never even seen any snow, so I don’t think that corrosion is a factor. I’m beginning to wonder if this could be a problem in the PCM, could it pull the voltage down? I did have a similar problem with my 97 T-bird where it became hard to start, till it wouldn’t start at all and it was the PCM.
Took the relay panel apart as far as I could, mass of wire inside of coarse. Followed the wire from the relay to a large loom of wires that goes into the top of the left front fender. From there I don’t know where the wire goes to get to the inertia switch or the other connection points in between, or where the connection points are, any ideas?
Wow, again thank all you guys for the help, I would have quit a long time ago if not for you! I’ll keep trying…
Since I am working alone, I made up a jumper wire and jumped the relay and tried to do the drop test again. With the battery at 12.55 volts and the pump running I connected the DVOM from battery negative to pump positive and read 11.64 volts. From battery negative to pump negative no voltage. From battery positive to pump negative was 12.23 volts and from battery positive to to pump positive I got .71 volts. I also tried what Twiggy suggested and had no measured resistance between the battery negative and pump negative there was continuity.
Ok, here’s the latest update. I was wrong on the 6.65 voltage figure, that was mV after prime. The voltage on the pump just flashes for a second, it is 11.90 volts and within .5V of battery voltage. The positive side on the drop test is also 11.90 volts. I can’t get a reading on the negative side and I don’t know why? This is with the pump working again so I can hear it prime but i can’t get a reading.
No it’s not easy at all, I’m pretty much lost now. I can’t get a reading on the negative side and I’m reading battery voltage on the positive side with the key off and nothing legible with the key on. I think it’s time to take it into the shop. Thanks for all your efforts, it is appreciated!
This is a four wire harness going into the pump, now I’m wondering if I’m on the right two wires? I’ve been checking the black and red w/black stripe. With the key on and the connector unplugged there is 6.65 volts across the two wires and it’s steady. Still haven’t done the drop test. There is a dealer installed Ford Vehicle Security System alarm on this escape, the one with the little red light under the dash. If I knew how to disable it I would, it has done funny things in the past. I didn’t know that it could shut down the fuel pump. An intermittent problem with the alarm would make sense. Thanks again for all the help, I’ll keep trying…
Yes, looked for wiring diagrams, couldn’t find any on the fuel pump circuit. I did find a semi loose ground for the alarm, under the dash. If the fuel pump is shut down by the alarm, then maybe that ground was the problem. The car never quit on me after it was running, just wouldn’t pump the fuel on start up.
Thanks much to jacobnbr1 for the wiring diagram, that makes things a little easier. If I’m reading it right, I am on the right wires with the black and pink black. So I think my 6.65 volt reading is correct. I was originally thinking that voltage could be variable through the PCM. I need to do the drop test and other tests jacobnbr1 suggested and see what I come up with. Answering some of the back posts, I have 12.5 volts on the battery and have switched relays to known good ones. Thanks for sticking with me guys!
I don’t have a meter to measure current, but that sounds like a good thought too. Or is it possible that they pump is running too much? Anyway I’m going to try the drop test if I can access the wires. Thanks again!
I did another voltage test at the pump harness and came up with a steady 6.65 volts. I also tried to do the voltage drop test but couldn’t establish continuity through the connector, I’ll try again tomorrow. As far as a break in a wire, I’ve looked at that, but it’s not obvious if that is the problem .Since it’s running again, maybe I should start it and then mess with the wiring to see if it dies.
I did voltage test on the on the pump circuit and did have voltage, I don’t remember the reading now. I didn’t know about the voltage drop test and I’m not sure how to access the pins on the pump with the connectors together. The tank is very clean inside so sediment is not an issue. Here’s a new wrinkle, the pump started working again today, so I’m thinking you are on the right track, it’s not the pump at all. I’ve tried to check all the connections and grounds and used a scan tool and have no codes set. I’m going to check some more tomorrow but I don’t have near the expertise that you guys do and may have to bite the bullet and take it to the dealer. Anyway thanks a lot for the help!