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Hey Eric! Thanks for the reply. I went to a dealership today to get the original key for that vehicle re-made. Only costs $16 since there wasn’t any anti-theft technology in the key. I took it home and it worked like a charm confirming the key was the issue.
Now just to lube it up and put it back in the vehicle!!
Hey Eric! Thanks for the reply. I went to a dealership today to get the original key for that vehicle re-made. Only costs $16 since there wasn’t any anti-theft technology in the key. I took it home and it worked like a charm confirming the key was the issue.
Now just to lube it up and put it back in the vehicle!!
Another great video, Scanner Danner really knows his stuff!! I used to only have a very basic one I got from HF that just gave the codes, When my dad’s truck had an ABS light come on I started looking for one with that capabilities. I ended up going with the INNOVA 3160, I got it for around $160, I just checked on Amazon and it’s currently $193 so its still in the consumer range for someone who wants one with ABS and more capabilities.
I’m not a pro or anything, but it met my needs for the 3 years I’ve had it. Has anyone else ever considered (or own) this scanner? If so what’s your opinion of it?
Another great video, Scanner Danner really knows his stuff!! I used to only have a very basic one I got from HF that just gave the codes, When my dad’s truck had an ABS light come on I started looking for one with that capabilities. I ended up going with the INNOVA 3160, I got it for around $160, I just checked on Amazon and it’s currently $193 so its still in the consumer range for someone who wants one with ABS and more capabilities.
I’m not a pro or anything, but it met my needs for the 3 years I’ve had it. Has anyone else ever considered (or own) this scanner? If so what’s your opinion of it?
Thanks for all the advice guys! For her car I’m just going to end up going with quick struts as brokemechanic suggested. Mainly because if anything more than the strut would need replaced its more economical to just grab the whole assembly then to buy individual parts. Plus with 115 k and 11 years it’s probably best to get new springs as well. Thanks for the advice brokemechanic!
I’d also like to thank everyone who contributed with their opinion on strut compressor tools. It sounds like the one referenced in my original post works pretty good from what bustedbolts said! If I would purchase one in the future that would be one of my top picks, I’d just have to try to get a deal on it as it wouldn’t be used very heavily, but if the price is right…it just might be worth it!!
Thanks for all the advice guys! For her car I’m just going to end up going with quick struts as brokemechanic suggested. Mainly because if anything more than the strut would need replaced its more economical to just grab the whole assembly then to buy individual parts. Plus with 115 k and 11 years it’s probably best to get new springs as well. Thanks for the advice brokemechanic!
I’d also like to thank everyone who contributed with their opinion on strut compressor tools. It sounds like the one referenced in my original post works pretty good from what bustedbolts said! If I would purchase one in the future that would be one of my top picks, I’d just have to try to get a deal on it as it wouldn’t be used very heavily, but if the price is right…it just might be worth it!!
Thanks for the post Matthew. That’s good to know about the rear springs also, it makes sense since they wouldn’t have the weight of the engine & trans to support so they would probably be a little lighter duty springs. I actually saw your post on the ETCG forums and read it before deciding to post my own. I was actually getting ready to purchase the OTC clamshell compressor and then had a couple reservations.
The main reservation I had was would it work well on large vehicles (SUV, minivan, etc.) From the reviews there’s a decent number of people who said it reaches the maximum allowable torque before the spring would be fully compressed. A lot of them had euro vehicles though, but I just wondered if it would do the same thing on say an SUV. What is your experience from using it? It doesn’t sound like you’ve had any issues with it, but just wondering if you’ve seen what some of those other users were talking about.
Thanks for the post Matthew. That’s good to know about the rear springs also, it makes sense since they wouldn’t have the weight of the engine & trans to support so they would probably be a little lighter duty springs. I actually saw your post on the ETCG forums and read it before deciding to post my own. I was actually getting ready to purchase the OTC clamshell compressor and then had a couple reservations.
The main reservation I had was would it work well on large vehicles (SUV, minivan, etc.) From the reviews there’s a decent number of people who said it reaches the maximum allowable torque before the spring would be fully compressed. A lot of them had euro vehicles though, but I just wondered if it would do the same thing on say an SUV. What is your experience from using it? It doesn’t sound like you’ve had any issues with it, but just wondering if you’ve seen what some of those other users were talking about.
I see what your saying, and I know the spring could definitely get wore out if the struts are bad for a long period of time, but on my girlfriends car it’s only got about 115 k miles on it, none of them are leaking, it still passes the bounce test fine and there are no noises coming from it. It’s really just a matter of ride quality and especially in the rear I think it probably wont pass the bounce test if left un-treated for another year.
Do you still think it’s worth replacing the whole assembly in this case? It’s definitely a significant cost savings for just buying new struts vs buying quick struts.
I see what your saying, and I know the spring could definitely get wore out if the struts are bad for a long period of time, but on my girlfriends car it’s only got about 115 k miles on it, none of them are leaking, it still passes the bounce test fine and there are no noises coming from it. It’s really just a matter of ride quality and especially in the rear I think it probably wont pass the bounce test if left un-treated for another year.
Do you still think it’s worth replacing the whole assembly in this case? It’s definitely a significant cost savings for just buying new struts vs buying quick struts.