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Triple check everything and make sure the egr is nice and clean and working properly. If everything checks out fine, clear the code. If the code comes back on, disconnect your battery for 30-45 mins and re-connect it. If the cel comes back on, then further inspection is needed. However, based on what you’re saying, that should do it. Let us know what happens.
+1 on both of your posts. I do believe it is most likely your cat. If you want to be sure, test your o2 sensors and make sure they are working fine. Also, check for exhaust leaks. You said you had some engine problems? It could possibly be that your compu
Quoted From harryseaword:
Checked the video, definately not a clutch problem, it has none of that slipping when changing gears, and if i would lift up with a gear in it would either take off or stall for sure.
It’s more of a very rapid jerk/misfire, split second and then back to normal, but now it’s been going for almost 200km without one single incident.
The kia place i went to didn’t even think it was worth taking a look at, suggested i come back if the check engine light came on or it was happening ALL the time, basically no check engine light and rare intermittent problem = many many expensive hours to find the problem (at ~200 USD an hour, 1500 SEK).Ok, if it is jerking, slipping is the opposite of jerking. So maybe your car is just programmed to shift hard under certain driving conditions. It can also be the way you drive. Cars have adaptive learning technology where it is constantly changing the way it responds to the drivers style of driving. Also, jerking doesn’t always point towards a misfire.
Check the main switch inside the power window master switch. That main switch controls all the other switches. If you look at the second page of the wiring diagram you can see it.
Quoted From EricTheCarGuy:
That system does not use a relay if memory serves and since the other windows work with their own switches I think you can rule out the motors. I think the most likely suspect is the master switch based on your description.
According to the diagram there is a relay. However, if that relay was no good, none of the power windows would work. I do believe it is the master switch. Or the main switch within the master switch. If those check out fine, then the only other possibility is the door multiplex control unit.
Have you had any work done on your car recently? Did one day you got in your car and it started vibrating out of nowhere? I had a similar issue. It turned out to be my timing was off by one tooth mark. I fixed the timing and it was gone, but there was vibration still when idling. I checked my coils and 2 of them were bad. I found out they were on recall and got all 8 of them replaced for free. Now the car idles and accelerates like a champ. No more vibration.
Don’t forget, it’s very important, you’ve been doing all this testing on the fuel pump and straining the relay for the pump. When you change the pump, make sure you change the relay. Of course the relay may be good, but it might only last you a week, a day, or maybe even a year or two. That doesn’t mean the relay is good. Just replace it for about $35.
Ok, maybe I didn’t choose the right words. Whenever a component goes bad (in your case the fuel pump) it starts to work really hard to work properly. It begins to use more amps to work. More amperage going through a relay that was only made to handle a lower amount will start to wear the relay down. I also don’t think you understand how a relay works. You can’t just choose a relay here or there and put it where it doesn’t belong. Also, replacing a relay with a paper clip will not work. It is a physical impossibility. Relays work with internal coils that magnetize and satisfy the circuit. You can’t do that with a paper clip. All I was trying to say was when you replace the fuel pump, just change the relay.
It’s probably not the part. Maybe you installed it wrong. Check to make sure that each wire is at the correct cylinder.
Thanks guys. I was actually able to come across that same website myself. Anyway, I didn’t get a chance to test for exhaust leaks, and O2 sensor voltage, but I did figure out the problem with the slip protection. I realized that my wheels were seriously out of alignment. So I brought my car to school and got a free alignment. Next thing you know, my ESP light is off and I was able to turn it off and on by pressing the button. So my ESP is working fine now. For now, I will leave the traffic light at yellow, b/c I only solved half my problem. I will post back once I get to the testing that I need to do.
Ok guys. Sorry for not updating you sooner, but we got the car working. The problem was the alternator. I thought that was weird, but my guess is that the old one that we replaced was not grounding properly. I really don’t see any other reason why the alternator would be the cause. Anyway, thanks a lot guys.
Quoted From Beefy:
Did you do a timing belt on the engine? Is that why you mentioned turning the crank two turns? If so, go back over your work. Make sure every connecter and what-not is plugged back in and where it’s supposed to be. I won’t tell your uncle 🙂
No, I didn’t do the timing belt. The reason why I mentioned turning the crank by hand is b/c Eric pointed out in his video that if you can’t turn the enginge by hand, then that means the engine is seized. If the engine is seized, that means you can’t crank it. Hence the no crank, no start. I wish it was a simple problem, but I don’t know. Anyway, tomorrow I’m going to head down to my dads place and check on the engine blocks’ ground. If the engine block has poor ground, that might be the problem. That’s the only thing left I could think of checking. After that, I’m stumped. I could still use everyones help if you can think of anything.