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Based on the picture, it looks like once you remove the 5 bolts, you should be able to remove the broken bolt either by turning it by hand or with some pliers or vise grips.
Hey, that’s pretty cool. I didn’t know there were places like that. I would definitely like to see that video.
Hey, that’s pretty cool. I didn’t know there were places like that. I would definitely like to see that video.
My first car was a 1996 Ford Explorer V6. Good truck until the city picked it up for unpaid parking tickets that my dad owed. I couldn’t afford to get it out so I let the city take it. My next car was a 1994 Mitsubishi Expo. It was an automatic 4cyl 2.0L. That was a great minivan. It had a third row, was good on gas, had good pick up, and was very reliable until I ran the transmission into the ground. I then donated it to kars 4 kids and bought a 2001 VW Passat V6 2.8L 4Motion. That was the best car I have ever driven. Fast, reliable, and for a V6 it was amazing on gas mileage. I got rid of it because I wanted to upgrade to a 2005 VW Touareg V8 4.2L. It is my current vehicle and I love it. However, I hate the amount of money I have to spend in gas all the time. I often think that I never should have gotten rid of the Passat. Oh well. Once in a blue moon I think about my Mitsubishi Expo and the good times I had with it.
Yesterday I had to do the brakes on a friends car. It was the most intense brake job I had to do because of the fact that the car was sitting in the driveway for a little over a year. That being said, everything was rusted and I was hoping that the calipers weren’t siezed. Thankfully, with some careful persuasion I was able to compress the calipers. I got the old rusted rotors off and put the new pads on. A little brake and caliper grease, brake cleaner for the rotors, and then bled the whole system. Once I was done, I torqued the wheels down with a torque stick and “bedded in the brakes”. She stops on a dime now. The week before my uncle and I actually put a junkyard engine in it, put new transmission filter and fluid, engine oil and filter, power steering fluid, coolant, air filter, battery, fuel filter, and gas treatment. We topped off the tank and it wanted to start. It cranked. We noticed a bunch of electrical problems and traced it back to a faulty bcm. Two days ago I put the bcm in that I got from the junkyard for $75, did a 30 minute re-learn procedure, and the car started. Car runs and feels like new.
I actually bought a 3 piece long nose hose pliers. I saw Eric use them in a video and he even commented on them. I held off on buying them until I had the need to use them.
I’m not sure off hand about your vehicle, but generally on the V6’s, V8’s, and V10’s are interference engines. VW does have timng belt intervals for these engines.
If I were you, I would remove the shoes and inspect them like you would with pads. Get a new hardware kit and put them back on. Let the self adjusting do its job. Drive it around and it should go away. However, if when inspecting the shoes, they look worn down or cracked, you need to replace them. Find out the throw away thickness.
You probably should’ve replaced the shoes too. If they are self adjusting then you need to drive it around. If they are not self adjusting then you need to adjust them again by hand.
You need to do a re-learn procedure. Go online and look up how to re-learn your key to turn off the anti-theft system. Most cases you will need the original key, not the valet key. If this procedure doesn’t work, then you would have to take it to the dealer. They will be able to bypass it and get it running for you.