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Quoted From WDHewson:
I had an old British beater as a teenager.
It took most of the summer to figure out the cooling system problem. No coolant leaks, all perfect, but it overheated at anything but idles or very slow driving.
We finally deduced that coolant pump suction at higher speeds was collapsing the lower radiator hose and pinched off flow. When inspection the engine with the hood up at idle, the suction was low and all looked normal.
Maybe replace your hoses for some good stiff ones.
Don’t you hate it when there is a problem due to something stupid?
Check out these links:
http://www.harborfreight.com/2-piece-su … 34253.html
http://www.harborfreight.com/6-piece-pr … -6904.html
http://www.harborfreight.com/2-piece-16 … 65772.html
http://www.harborfreight.com/6-piece-sc … 92193.html
http://www.harborfreight.com/22-piece-s … 95114.html
http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsea … rentpage=1Yea, I heard of that. For those of you who need a visual guide if you are going to attempt this, check out this link below.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zMok2y05jNE&feature=results_main&playnext=1&list=PLCB02EE7978D99EBCHere is a different way that Ericthecarguy did it:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9CPqbaSgcokBoth ways work. I prefer Eric’s way, but that’s just me.
Quoted From twiggy02919:
Any explanation on why the belt jumped teeth in the first place?
To be honest with you, I really don’t know why. I just asked my instructor and he said that it probably didn’t jump teeth. He said that I had to have overlooked the misalignment. I have to agree with him. I probably did just overlooked it. Thank God that mistake didn’t cost me my engine.
Quoted From dreamer2355:
Thats not a good sign. I really hope the engine isnt severely damaged.
Did you align the timing marks at TDC before even removing the belt? Some DOHC designs you need a specific tool to hold the cam shafts in place.
I would have rotated the engine by hand with a breaker bar and check for excessive resistance before trying to start the vehicle.
Yes, I did make sure the timing marks were at TDC. I marked everything up correctly. My instructor even told me I did everything right. He is just as dumb founded as I am. Also, I did rotate the engine by hand before I started it and there was no resistance. I was able to make a complete turn.
Quoted From EricTheCarGuy:
It doesn’t sound good if I’m honest, you might try turning the engine over by hand to see if the marks line up now, hopefully they do, if not there may be some bent or broken parts inside the engine. It’s sometimes difficult to find and align the correct marks when doing a job like that, in fact I know some guys that make their own marks before removing the old belt just to be sure everything is good to go when they put on a new belt.
I actually did make my own marks. I also know that I was in over my head, but one thing I learned from working with my uncle on cars is that determination almost always pays off. I took another look at my belt and turned the crankshaft by hand via a 1″ combo wrench. I lined up my cam marks (the ones that I made before starting the job) and noticed that the crankshaft wasn’t at TDC. So what I’m thinking is that originally the marks were lined up, but when I started the car they jumped teeth. My solution: do the job over. This time it only took me 2 hours to complete. I took off the timing belt only from the crankshaft. I left the belt on the cams. I re-aligned the crankshaft to TDC via the manufacturers TDC mark, and put the belt back on. I re-assembled everything and the car wouldn’t start. I determined it was the battery. I got a boost (took 15 mins before it finally started) and it was running. It sounded a little off, but I was glad it was at least running. I drove it to Autozone to buy some coolant and put a gallon in (I lost a lot of coolant when I took off the radiator hoses when doing the job). I then drove to the gas station and filled up. While at the gas station I took my scanner and scanned for codes. 4 codes came up. P0340, P0345, P0340pd, P0345pd. Now I don’t know what the pd stands for, but the other 2 are Camshaft position sensor A-Bank 1 circuit malfunction, and Camshaft position sensor A-Bank 2 circuit malfunction. I don’t know what that means, but I was able to delete the codes and there is no MIL. Now, the car runs fine and I’m happy as hell. Thank God and thank you all for your help. I really appreciate it and I’m just glad I was able to do this job. Stay dirty everyone.
Quoted From Trcustoms719:
Make sure nothing got knocked off.
If the codes stay away it was probably just from it being out of time the first time you started the engine.Yea. That’s what I was thinking. I think the codes will stay away. The car is running like it did before I did anything to it. I’m glad.
Quoted From EricTheCarGuy:
Sweet I’m glad you found the problem thanks for keeping us up to date. If you get the chance change the ‘traffic light’ to green on the post if you could.
How do you change the light to green?
My life just keeps getting better. I did all of that and when I went to put the belt on, guess what I find? My camshaft is mis-aligned. The other one is OK, but my drivers side is not. Simple solution: Just re-align it. WRONG. I go to re-align it and it keeps jumping the mark. I attached a picture. The hole where my right finger is, needs to be where my left finger is. If you really look at the teeth of the camshaft all the way to your right, there is a black mark. That mark needs to be facing up. Do I keep trying to align it until it gets there? I’m really not sure what to do now.
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[quote]Quoted From EndSupremacy:
My life just keeps getting better. I did all of that and when I went to put the belt on, guess what I find? My camshaft is mis-aligned. The other one is OK, but my drivers side is not. Simple solution: Just re-align it. WRONG. I go to re-align it and it keeps jumping the mark. I attached a picture. The hole where my right finger is, needs to be where my left finger is. If you really look at the teeth of the camshaft all the way to your right, there is a black mark. That mark needs to be facing up. Do I keep trying to align it until it gets there? I’m really not sure what to do now.
.OK. Here’s what I did. I was able to re-align the camshaft, and I finished the job…or so I thought. If I’m not mistaking, I was supposed to turn the camshaft 2 revolutions. I did not do that and I didn’t realize it until I tried to start the car. I wanted to cry. I started it and there was a very scary noise. I quickly turned it off. I had it on for about 2-3 seconds. White smoke came out of the mufflers. I tried to start it one more time and it wouldn’t start. Everything is turning, but my guess is the camshaft is mis-aligned. What I was thinking about doing, was to turn the camshaft one more time and make sure it is aligned. Then start the car and hope it is OK. If that doesn’t work, then I’m thinking of taking the heads off to check for damage. I could really use some good advice right now. I don’t know what to do.
Quoted From automechanic:
i checked the timing every thing is lined up this is what gots me stumped
I would look into adjusting your valves.
Quoted From EricTheCarGuy:
Most hydraulic tensioners need to be removed and compressed before installing them as has been suggested. You might do well to see if you can track down the service procedure for your application as there could be some special procedure that needs to be performed in order to install the belt correctly, too many expensive parts that could get ruined not to at least take that step.
I actually have the whole procedure printed out from AllData. They say to leave it in there and press the piston down with the tensioner. They obviously haven’t tried to do it themselves, otherwise they would have realized you need to take it out. Also, there is a guard that they do tell you to take out. However, when I try to take it out, there is one bolt that I can’t take out because it wedges itself onto something else. So…what I’m going to do is sand or grind down the housing that’s in the way, just enough so I can take the bolt out and then the rest is all mine. Thanks everyone for your input. I appreciate it. Stay dirty everyone!
Quoted From jacobnbr1:
If we had year,make,model and engine size would really help others help you with some first hand knowledge and not some guess of what style tensioner you have!
I did list the year, make, model, and engine in my original post.
Quoted From pcmdjason:
This site makes it look like it is near the cigarette lighter.
Yes, that is correct. It would be behind the ashtray. All you have to do is take the ashtray out an viola. Too bad that site isn’t in English.
Quoted From 3SheetsDiesel:
Based on what you’re describing, that tensioner is what I refer to as a “grenade pin” type. It’s got a little piston growing out of the top of it which has a little hole in it, which needs to line up with a matching hole in the body of the tensioner. What you’re going to need to do is get a little drill bit, or a little allen key, or something along those lines that will fit in that hole to hold the piston down. The way you get the piston compressed is to use a vise and slowly squeeze the piston back into the tensioner until the holes line up, then stick your retaining device (the drill bit/allen key/etc) through the holes to hold the piston down. Then, bolt the tensioner back onto the engine, route the belt and then pull the retaining device back out, letting the piston come free and adding tension back onto the belt.
Admittedly, I’ve never seen your engines timing setup with my own eyes, I’m just giving you advice based upon what you’re describing, it’s possible I’m wrong.
Thanks 3sheets. I’m really not looking forward to taking it out, but I guess I gotta do it. I’m really dreading doing this. I actually figured that’s what I had to do, but I wanted to see if there was an alternative. If there is another way, somebody please come forward. Anyway, I’m gonna get started on taking it out. I hate my life.