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Quoted From 619DioFan:
With the symptoms you describe I would check for a short in the ignition switch circuit.
I’ll check that out. I don’t want to assume my uncle did it. He used to be so reliable. I guess now that he’s getting older he just forgets things or is just too lazy to be thorough. I hate saying it, but I think he should just retire. Anyway, I’ll let you know how it works out.
Quoted From Beefy:
Okay, can I get a rundown of EVERY thing you guys checked when the no-crank/no-start occurred then? And when did it happen? Was the van sitting for awhile and suddenly wouldn’t crank? Did it just happen out of the blue? The more info, the more we can help bro.
Ok, my father called me and said that his car isn’t starting. So I asked him what happened. He said that he drove to the store and was in there only 10 mins. When he came out, his car wasn’t starting.I know, weird. Anyway, we checked the starter, fuses, relays, neutral safety switch, battery, and I think my uncle checked the ignition switch, but I’m not sure. We turned the engine over by hand without a problem. The starter reaches the flywheel. Oh, and the neutral safety switch had some bad wires, so we bought a new switch and replaced the old one.
+1 on the antitheft. That also reminds me of the nss (neutral safety switch. I used to have a no start problem and found out it was the nss.
I have a VW, and my car before was also a VW. They are simpler than most people think they are. True, there are a lot of issues with clearance and plastic parts, but if you take the time to look at what you are doing and do it right…that and you gotta make sure you have the proper tools for the job, you should be ok. All you have to do is know the procedure, do everything the right way you’re supposed to do it in the procedure, take your time, and again I cannot stress this enough, you have to have the right tools. In addition, you have to make sure you do the job safe. You can get hurt pretty bad if you don’t watch what you’re doing. Never wear any jewelry on your hands or wrist, especially if you’re gonna be working on alternators or starters. Always wear protective eye wear and gloves. Make sure the car is on the E brake (emergency brake) and make sure that the jack stands are positioned correctly. Point of all this is that it is easy to work on a VW once you have all the proper procedures, tools, and safety.
Usually you can check with the dipstick. Usually…it’s not always the case. Also, you can drain the oil.
Check the following:
Use of incorrect grade of fuel
Oil contamination
Fuel Pressure too high
Heated Oxygen Sensor improperly connected
Damaged exhaust system component
Faulty ECT sensor
Faulty Heated Oxygen sensor (check this last).If you check all of these and they’re good or they;re not and you fix them, then put your scanner back on and clear the codes. If the codes come back (doesn’t have to come back immediately, sometimes it will come back a day or 2 later), clear it again and disconnect the battery for 30 mins. Then reconnect it and start it up. You should be code free from then on.
You would want to get a tester to test for hydrocarbons (HC’s) in the coolant. If you don’t want to do that, there are other options. With the car cool, open the radiator cap and start the car. Let it get to operating temperature. Once it get’s there, look at the coolant flowing and see if it looks like there is bubbling. If so, then your head gasket is blown. Another way is to check your oil dipstick. If it comes out and you see what looks like (for lack of a better term) S H I T, then you have a blown head gasket. In that case, you have to of course replace the head gasket, then drain your coolant and replace that. Then you have to drain your oil and change it. I’m guessing your car takes 6 qts. So put in 3-4 qts of regular oil, not what you normally put in. Then 3-2 qts of tranny fluid. Both have to add up to what your car takes (assuming it’s 6 qts). Then start the car and let it run for 30 mins. Then you repeat the oil change again with new oil and new tranny fluid (that’s why I said don’t put the good oil in). This time just let it run for about 15-20 mins. Then you change the oil with whatever you put in and you’re good to go.
You would want to get a tester to test for hydrocarbons (HC’s) in the coolant. If you don’t want to do that, there are other options. With the car cool, open the radiator cap and start the car. Let it get to operating temperature. Once it get’s there, look at the coolant flowing and see if it looks like there is bubbling. If so, then your head gasket is blown. Another way is to check your oil dipstick. If it comes out and you see what looks like (for lack of a better term) S H I T, then you have a blown head gasket. In that case, you have to of course replace the head gasket, then drain your coolant and replace that. Then you have to drain your oil and change it. I’m guessing your car takes 6 qts. So put in 3-4 qts of regular oil, not what you normally put in. Then 3-2 qts of tranny fluid. Both have to add up to what your car takes (assuming it’s 6 qts). Then start the car and let it run for 30 mins. Then you repeat the oil change again with new oil and new tranny fluid (that’s why I said don’t put the good oil in). This time just let it run for about 15-20 mins. Then you change the oil with whatever you put in and you’re good to go.
Machine shops usually do clean the heads, but you have to clean it yourself as well. Make sure it is cleaned well. As for the stalling, I have no idea.
I’ve read nothing but bad reviews for torque multipliers. I’ve never used them myself, so I can’t say for sure. I’ve also read that it was a bad idea to use the starter to loosen the bolt for the crankshaft. I would use my better judgement on this one and use the proper tools needed for what ever it is you are doing. Ericthecarguy even suggested in another post that you DON’T use the starter to loosen the crank bolt. Look into investing in some tools that are meant to do the job you are going to do. Check out http://www.harborfreight.com. They have a lot of great tools at great prices. 90% of my tools are from harbor freight and none of them have gone on me yet. Do the right thing. Get the right tools.
+1 on r e t arding the timing a little bit. However, that’s just a temp fix like you said to pass inspection. Anyway, the higher hc emmisions is usually caused by a lean misfire, not under rich conditions. in any case, I would change the o2 se
The links I gave you have those kind of pieces. Check out the second and fifth link. They may not be a 50 piece set, but I’m sure they come with the basic ones you need. If you don’t see anything, maybe you can browse their site. Also, see if there is a harbor freight around your way. A lot of times there will be a lot of stuff in the store that’s not on the website. I guarantee you they will have it in store if not online.
EricTheCarGuy actually has a video on how to diagnose this problem. I suggest you watch the whole video. Here is the link to his video:
http://www.youtube.com/user/EricTheCarG … UzOTnsWImIThis video should be very helpful. He not only tells you the possible causes, but he also shows you how to check them. Chances are you will find out your issue with this video. Hope this helps. Keep us posted.
Quoted From WDHewson:
I had an old British beater as a teenager.
It took most of the summer to figure out the cooling system problem. No coolant leaks, all perfect, but it overheated at anything but idles or very slow driving.
We finally deduced that coolant pump suction at higher speeds was collapsing the lower radiator hose and pinched off flow. When inspection the engine with the hood up at idle, the suction was low and all looked normal.
Maybe replace your hoses for some good stiff ones.
Don’t you hate it when there is a problem due to something stupid?
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