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Out of curiosity, what were the codes?
As mentioned; it sounds like someone might have been messing with the CEL bulb, wire, or gauge.
Out of curiosity, what were the codes?
As mentioned; it sounds like someone might have been messing with the CEL bulb, wire, or gauge.
[quote=”viper1230″ post=41068]Why is a daily driver a no-no for a project? Jw[/quote]
You’re bound to run into problems with a swap– whether expected or unexpected.
Most people wouldn’t want that downtime with their daily driver. With that, you also have to consider reliability.
[quote=”viper1230″ post=41068]Why is a daily driver a no-no for a project? Jw[/quote]
You’re bound to run into problems with a swap– whether expected or unexpected.
Most people wouldn’t want that downtime with their daily driver. With that, you also have to consider reliability.
I would ask the mechanic to show me the head gasket. Leave no room for guesses.
I would ask the mechanic to show me the head gasket. Leave no room for guesses.
Appreciate the feedback everyone.
I’m going to have a few hoses replaced, along with the thermostat and radiator cap. Car’s been parked while I gather parts. I figured I’ll take care of preventative maintenance at the same time.
I will be bleeding the system afterwards as well. I will post an update.
Appreciate the feedback everyone.
I’m going to have a few hoses replaced, along with the thermostat and radiator cap. Car’s been parked while I gather parts. I figured I’ll take care of preventative maintenance at the same time.
I will be bleeding the system afterwards as well. I will post an update.
[quote=”cosmo3000″ post=39087]Hello I have 1995 Honda Accord 5 speed with a F22B2 engine. My car needs CV Joints on both sides. I know I will need to replace the tranny fluid. But my question is with what fluid? Do I go with the Genuine Honda Manual Transmission Fluid? The guy at the auto parts store told me that I have a “splash lubricated” tranny. So I don’t need to use gear oil bc that will burn up my transmission. Instead I need to use Engine oil. He told me to use 10W30 bc I live in south Texas and our weather is always very hot and very humid. So do I just go back and buy synthetic 10W30 engine oil or go to a honda dealership and but the genuine Honda fluid??[/quote]
Consult the owners manual/OE service manual. My experience with parts guys equates to most not knowing what they’re talking about.
[quote=”cosmo3000″ post=39087]Hello I have 1995 Honda Accord 5 speed with a F22B2 engine. My car needs CV Joints on both sides. I know I will need to replace the tranny fluid. But my question is with what fluid? Do I go with the Genuine Honda Manual Transmission Fluid? The guy at the auto parts store told me that I have a “splash lubricated” tranny. So I don’t need to use gear oil bc that will burn up my transmission. Instead I need to use Engine oil. He told me to use 10W30 bc I live in south Texas and our weather is always very hot and very humid. So do I just go back and buy synthetic 10W30 engine oil or go to a honda dealership and but the genuine Honda fluid??[/quote]
Consult the owners manual/OE service manual. My experience with parts guys equates to most not knowing what they’re talking about.
[quote=”Greasemonkeyintranning” post=38731]What’s the difference between ABS and SRS?? My Honda has SRS. Just was wondering what’s the difference and how to diagnose problems. Thanks really new to your website. Great job on the videos man!!! Keep up the great work!!![/quote]
They’re two different subjects.
__ABS stands for anti-lock brake system. With ABS, a computer counts each time a wheel makes a revolution. Under normal driving conditions all four wheels turn the same speed. If one wheel locks up during braking, the wheel count for that wheel will immediately drop to zero. This triggers the release of the brake mechanism for that wheel, allowing it to rotate freely. When the rotation count becomes equal again, the computer reactivates the braking mechanism for that wheel.
This is why vehicles that are equipped with ABS are associated with leaving dotted skid marks down a roadway– as this process will result in rapid “on-and-off” skidding for each wheel.
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SRS stands for for supplemental restraint system. The SRS system includes all of the sensors and control units for the air bags and seat belts. To my knowledge, if the SRS light remains on in your car, your air bag system will not deploy.
__If the SRS light remains on in your car, you have an issue with the system that must be correctly addressed as soon as possible. Unfortunately I cannot explain the means of diagnosing and repairing/replacing components for each system (ABS/SRS). Perhaps someone will chime in.
Take care with either system as far as diagnoses and repair/replacement is concerned though. As with most anything, improper knowledge and care will result in a faulty system.
[quote=”Greasemonkeyintranning” post=38731]What’s the difference between ABS and SRS?? My Honda has SRS. Just was wondering what’s the difference and how to diagnose problems. Thanks really new to your website. Great job on the videos man!!! Keep up the great work!!![/quote]
They’re two different subjects.
__ABS stands for anti-lock brake system. With ABS, a computer counts each time a wheel makes a revolution. Under normal driving conditions all four wheels turn the same speed. If one wheel locks up during braking, the wheel count for that wheel will immediately drop to zero. This triggers the release of the brake mechanism for that wheel, allowing it to rotate freely. When the rotation count becomes equal again, the computer reactivates the braking mechanism for that wheel.
This is why vehicles that are equipped with ABS are associated with leaving dotted skid marks down a roadway– as this process will result in rapid “on-and-off” skidding for each wheel.
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SRS stands for for supplemental restraint system. The SRS system includes all of the sensors and control units for the air bags and seat belts. To my knowledge, if the SRS light remains on in your car, your air bag system will not deploy.
__If the SRS light remains on in your car, you have an issue with the system that must be correctly addressed as soon as possible. Unfortunately I cannot explain the means of diagnosing and repairing/replacing components for each system (ABS/SRS). Perhaps someone will chime in.
Take care with either system as far as diagnoses and repair/replacement is concerned though. As with most anything, improper knowledge and care will result in a faulty system.
[quote=”LeoTheLion89″ post=38264]i dont dont really give 2 shits about live data i can get the MS509 on Amazon for the same price you mentioned however i do not need something that fancy i just want something i can clear the CEL every it comes on cuz its annoying to see it on all the time.[/quote]
Rather then taking others posts in snide– how about you get a scan tool and take care of the problem properly to diagnose and remove the light.
[quote=”LeoTheLion89″ post=38264]i dont dont really give 2 shits about live data i can get the MS509 on Amazon for the same price you mentioned however i do not need something that fancy i just want something i can clear the CEL every it comes on cuz its annoying to see it on all the time.[/quote]
Rather then taking others posts in snide– how about you get a scan tool and take care of the problem properly to diagnose and remove the light.
[quote=”entryleveltechh” post=38139][quote=”canucktech” post=38127]Im truly with you on all of your posts on this topic i work at a Nissan dealer in canada and have read all of your comments pertaining to this you make a great point. I see the same things you do. Flat rate has to be done with. The other day I watched a rookie tech (licensed mind you) ask how to hook a fuel pressure gauge up? REALLY!!!! This clown makes the same wages I do? He brings home the a bigger pay cheque because he avoids the diagnostic, warranty, electrical, trim, RO’s. But he’ll be first up for work when there is a Maint. or brake job coming through the drive thru. The kids coming into this trade have to understand who they work with. When they screw the older (not calling myself old really but I do have the highest seniority)techs those tech aren’t going to help them when they run into problems. I actually laugh when I watch them scratching their heads at a simple problem that I have figured out previously numerous times, yet i will never speak up, I have actually steered them in the wrong direction just for the sheer enjoyment for myself and other more senior techs.[/quote]
Are you serious? ” I’ve actually steered them in the wrong direction just for the sheer enjoyment for myself and other senior technicians” I’m so disappointed & disgusted to hear that from a fellow technician in the industry. Do you not understand by doing that your only screwing yourself? His customer’s are your customer’s by pointing him in the wrong direction only makes it worse for the dealership & makes the customer more angry because it’s taking longer for the repair to be made. Or hence if something breaks because u steered him in the wrong direction.
There’s many more parts that I disagree on in your post like “Laugh when I watch them scratch there heads on an easy problem I have already figured out” Why not help and educate the younger the technician?
“He avoids the diagnostic, warranty, electrical RO’s” no ones avoid’s those RO’s there specifically handed out according to the difficulty thats why we have “A” “B” “C” technicians or the service manager issue’s them according to the skill of the technician.
I mean to be honest i’m a technician and i’m one of the younger ones that has done pretty well at the age of 21. I specialize in electrical & driveability and currently trying to master my way into transmission work now that my side business has slowed down. But it is so disgusting to hear someone that’s a fellow technician talk bad about the “lower level” technicians, because you were one of them at one point.
I[/quote]
I’m going to have to agree. If i knew what was going on behind those doors I would not take my car to that shop. That is a disaster waiting to happen. -
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